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Not a Glowing Endorsement for LED Headlights...

Freezefm

New member
I purchased these LEDs on Amazon:
LEDs.jpg

I liked the looks and they have good ratings. I found that I had to trim the white locking ring a bit to get them to fit. The tab here needed to go.
Ring.jpg

Once in, I do like the results. Low:
OEM-Low.jpg LED-Low.jpg

High:
OEM-Hi.jpg LED-Hi.jpg

Here's from the front comparing the OEM and LED:
Old-New.jpg

Francis
 
Ok, I'll say it. I'm confused. The title implies you're not too satisfied with the LED's, but the pictures seem to show more illumination for both high and low beams as compared to the stock lamps. Please expound a little more, I'd appreciate it. Alway looking for improvements.
 
Ok, I'll say it. I'm confused. The title implies you're not too satisfied with the LED's, but the pictures seem to show more illumination for both high and low beams as compared to the stock lamps. Please expound a little more, I'd appreciate it. Alway looking for improvements.

Must be the LEDs on the left.
 
In the original post, if you expand the pictures they are clearly named as to which is which. To me the LED's look good, but I don't know. Maybe I'm missing something. 50 watts is about 4 amps assuming 12 VDC, less if you sue actual 13.5-14.5 VDC.
 
I purchased the Katana LEDs and also had to file/sand the rings down about 1mm to get everything to fit properly. I’m happy with mine.
 
In the original post, if you expand the pictures they are clearly named as to which is which. To me the LED's look good, but I don't know. Maybe I'm missing something. 50 watts is about 4 amps assuming 12 VDC, less if you sue actual 13.5-14.5 VDC.

Amps don't "compensate" for volts. Higher volts also means higher amps.
 
Higher voltage results in a higher wattage, given a constant ohmic resistance. You can also figure wattage as amps squared x resistance.
 
Higher voltage results in a higher wattage, given a constant ohmic resistance. You can also figure wattage as amps squared x resistance.

Precisely. Probably 50 watts is based on 12 volts or nearly 12 volts when engine is off, so 50 watts is the minimum. If your voltage regulator is putting out 14.5 volts, your headlights are actually putting out 60.4 watts of light.
 
Higher voltage results in a higher wattage, given a constant ohmic resistance. You can also figure wattage as amps squared x resistance.

Thanks for the correction. My sometimes old mind was looking at it the wrong way.
 
Sorry for the confusion, the title is due to having to trim the white ring. Was trying to warn anyone about installation issue of having to modify OEM part as it's not a straight plug-and-play.

I am satisfied with the LED output.

Francis
 
It would have been nice if the LED would have lit up the tree trunk, then there would have been a clear winner. Still, the whiter light usually gives better visibility, and it appears to draw quite a bit less power off of the charging system, leaving more power for other things.
 
It would have been nice if the LED would have lit up the tree trunk, then there would have been a clear winner. Still, the whiter light usually gives better visibility, and it appears to draw quite a bit less power off of the charging system, leaving more power for other things.

I cannot image what "other things" could be on a Ryker! ;)
 
The shape of the bulb's "head" and the position inside the headlight matters. You need a more flatter profile (from side) and you need to make sure that the lenght of the bulb inside the headlight is the same to the stock bulb filament.

The design of the reflective lenses is always specific and what type of bulbs you use does matter (not just because of the mounting points).
You have to make sure that the originating point of the light is in the same spot inside the headlight as the stock bulbs - otherwise you are changing the light pattern that is being projected. You change the originating point of the light, you change the angle at which the light is reflected and as such you change the light pattern.

Based on what I see from your images, the LED bulbs you are using are not the proper ones - your light pattern has changed, also the "filament" part is too "fat".
You probably need something more like this:

H13-LED-Headlight-S1-S2-4000lm-DC12-24V-LED-Headlight-Bulb-for-Car.jpg
 
4 sided LEDs I find give a better light disbursement then two sided LEDs when put in lights not made for LEDs. Halogens have 360 degree light and most two sided LEDs don't give that 360 degree range. I have similar LEDs on my wife's F3L and it puts out really good light. I tried the two sided ones and they were horrible.
 
I order the 2 sided and will report back when I get them installed. I bought the Beamtech H4 off of Amazon. Another member used these and said they were great.
 
4 sided LEDs I find give a better light disbursement then two sided LEDs when put in lights not made for LEDs. Halogens have 360 degree light and most two sided LEDs don't give that 360 degree range. I have similar LEDs on my wife's F3L and it puts out really good light. I tried the two sided ones and they were horrible.

That's not entirely true... you most probably had the wrong lights - length or power...

Here is a better explanation from a guy that know what he is talking about - I know is from the car industry, but headlight design has the same principle for motorcycles as well.
Is a long video, but worth to watch it. Listen to his explanation on the types of bulbs and headlights housings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeaDrH0gXZk
 
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