Just took a test ride on a 2019 F3 Limited. I have a question on the ufit system. Is the "stock" position of the floorboards postition 3? I'm 5'7" with a 30 inch inseam. The bars felt fine, but I think the floorboards could come back an inch. I see a brake rod listed for position 2 -1, and am wondering if this is what I would need if I decide to pull the trigger on this machine. Thanks.
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F3 Limited test ride
- Thread starter rdkarl
- Start date
Peteoz
Well-known member
Yep......you’ve got it nutted, rdkari. I know you said the bars felt fine, but just in case you didn’t know, there are 3 different bars under Ufit too. Shortreach, Standard and Longreach.
Pete
Thank you, I appreciate it.
I am also 5'7" with 2016 F3L. I went with position 2 floorboards and short reach bars. I also have BRP driver backrest I have it adjusted forward and I am very comfortable. I later added the roadster renovations F3 brake pedal mod 2 for $135.80 best thing I have done to my spyder. Lamonster makes one now but I don't think they make it for position 2. Good luck.
Bob
RICZ
New member
Due to "my condition," the brake pedal was way too high and uncomfortable for me to reach. Always up for a challenge, and after brainstorming a few designs, I came up with this remedy to get the pedal where it's easier to reach.
+ I grabbed a 3/8 X 6" galvanized pipe nipple, cut off the threads.
+ I bored it out with a 1/2" drill bit.
+ Rounded the ends for appearance.
+ Cut about an inch from the center of the brake rod.
+ Reduced the diameter of the rods until they JUST slipped into the pipe. Bare metal seen in photo.
+ Went to ACE Hardware to get four 1/8" dia. X 3/4" long tension / roll pins. Seen in photo next to pipe.
+ Inserted rod into pipe, less than half way.
+ Drilled two 1/8" holes through both pipe and rod parallel to rod's mounting holes in the ends.
+ Inserted pins in the two holes.
+ Slipped other rod into pipe and mounted it on the bike. Temporary, no need to place nuts on the screws.
+ Placed pedal approximately where I think I'd like it and clamped a vice-grip on rod to hold that position.
+ Mounted bike and checked if the pedal was right for me and readjusted until it was.
+ Scratched a mark on the rod where it meets the pipe.
+ Drilled two 1/8" holes through the pipe and rod as above and inserted pins.
+ Painted rod assembly with semi gloss black.
+ Mounted to bike and enjoyed the improved brake pedal position.
Warning: Do not set the pedal too low or you will not be able to do hard braking.
+ I grabbed a 3/8 X 6" galvanized pipe nipple, cut off the threads.
+ I bored it out with a 1/2" drill bit.
+ Rounded the ends for appearance.
+ Cut about an inch from the center of the brake rod.
+ Reduced the diameter of the rods until they JUST slipped into the pipe. Bare metal seen in photo.
+ Went to ACE Hardware to get four 1/8" dia. X 3/4" long tension / roll pins. Seen in photo next to pipe.
+ Inserted rod into pipe, less than half way.
+ Drilled two 1/8" holes through both pipe and rod parallel to rod's mounting holes in the ends.
+ Inserted pins in the two holes.
+ Slipped other rod into pipe and mounted it on the bike. Temporary, no need to place nuts on the screws.
+ Placed pedal approximately where I think I'd like it and clamped a vice-grip on rod to hold that position.
+ Mounted bike and checked if the pedal was right for me and readjusted until it was.
+ Scratched a mark on the rod where it meets the pipe.
+ Drilled two 1/8" holes through the pipe and rod as above and inserted pins.
+ Painted rod assembly with semi gloss black.
+ Mounted to bike and enjoyed the improved brake pedal position.
Warning: Do not set the pedal too low or you will not be able to do hard braking.
Went for a 2nd test ride today, this time with my wife as a passenger. Now, I'm thinking the stock position of the floorboards, 3, is fine, but the height of the brake pedal is too high. I put a deposit down on the spyder, and will pick it up on Monday. I'll look at the available options for lowering the brake pedal, and I think the other thing I will add is the Bajaron sway bar. The body roll is a little too much with the stock setup. Thanks for all of the responses to my original post.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Congratulations, mate......yeah, Ron’s stabiliser Bar was one of my first options, as I didn’t like the body roll either. I have not regretted it in ANY way. Yet some are quite happy with the stock bar. My second option was Lamont’s longer floorboards, as these not only gave me more foot area, but also addressed the brake pedal angle (just another option to think about). Hope you enjoy it as much as I am.
Pete
Pete
RICZ
New member
See my post #5. I am extremely pleased with the result and it looks like it came that way from the factory.
Another, and easier trick is to drill a hole the same diameter behind the hole the attaching pin goes through in the front of the rod. I did this and the pedal was still too high for me, but might be OK for you.
I omitted that the front screw has to be reversed or it will interfere with the large tube the board connects to. To tighten it. cut the short leg of an allen key a lot shorter so it fits into the tighter space.
AY4B
New member
Lamonster Garage sells brake rods that will lower the brake pedal to where you do not need to lift your leg. http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-f3-brake-rod-lamonster/
You should go for the Lamonster brake rod it's half the price of the roadster renovations that I used and straight replacement, no fiddling with adjustment.
Bob
I installed the Lamonster brake rod yesterday. It puts the brake pedal in a much more comfortable position.
AY4B
New member
If you want to save a little doe, Take your brake rod off and just drill a second hole on it. make it the same size hole. It will lower your brake pedal. I messed up the first time and made it too far away from the first hole and it did not fit. I just used the other side to make another hole. nailed it the second time.
TheCajun1957
New member
Another vote for the #4 brake rod from Lamonster!!! Love the new position.
Rattlebars
New member
This lowers the pedal. Minor adjustments can be had with washers under the pad and longer m6 bolts. I have not cut a rod but I think that it is hollow. If one can cut the rod and tap it for threaded rod that would be a possibility. My old rod is in Ohio and I'm in SC until June. When I get home, I will give it a try 2 c if it's feasible.
RICZ
New member
I have cut the rod - see post #5 - it is a solid rod.
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