Battery electrical leak

[nealperkins]

Sorry for the delay. The battery is only 1 year old, maintained on the charger. But, it is a bit slow to turn over, even for a second crank when warm. I’ll have it checked but, I will just replace it if any weakness shows up...it is not worth getting stranded!
Thanks for all the good info!

 

[UtahPete]

Sorry for the delay. The battery is only 1 year old, maintained on the charger. But, it is a bit slow to turn over, even for a second crank when warm. I’ll have it checked but, I will just replace it if any weakness shows up...it is not worth getting stranded!
Thanks for all the good info!

That's more likely a bad connection, not a bad battery, I think.

 

[Bob Denman]

Has anybody asked about how many riding seasons that battery has faced?
If iut's more than three: there's a good chance that it's ready to be recycled.

 

[trikermutha]

How warm is the oil? I turned mine over in - 30 deg weather and yes it was slow but it started. And my battery is 5 years old.

Bike will turn over slow when oil is a bit thick too.

 

[Little Blue]

Battery

I would remove the battery and then have it 'Load Tested". Auto Zone will do this for FREE. Good Luck :thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

Lew, doesn't the test light probe just indicate the presence of voltage? Not sure you can check for current with one of those. Maybe I'm not understanding your post.

You make an "open" in the circuit in question, either at the fuse of by disconnecting a wire, and then insert the test light in series.

 

[UtahPete]

You make an "open" in the circuit in question, either at the fuse of by disconnecting a wire, and then insert the test light in series.

Yes, I realized later that is what he meant. Novel use of a test light. Thanks.

 

[UtahPete]

Sorry for the delay. The battery is only 1 year old, maintained on the charger. But, it is a bit slow to turn over, even for a second crank when warm. I’ll have it checked but, I will just replace it if any weakness shows up...it is not worth getting stranded!
Thanks for all the good info!

Let us know how things turn out, so we can add to our understanding of these types of issues. Thanks

 

[Gordy]

A test light will do the trick. Un-hook the negative side of the battery and put one side of the test light ( usually the one with the clip ) on it. Then touch the probe/lighted light end to the negative cable end. If the battery lights---- you have a leak somewhere. These test lights are very useful if you're looking for a hot wire ( ignition on or off ) on your car or spyder.

Lew L

you are right and if the test light lights up then start pulling fuses

 

[wingit3611]

Does any one know how many milli amp should be drawn when bike is turned off?

 

[UtahPete]

Does any one know how many milli amp should be drawn when bike is turned off?

I think pretty much zero. Maybe DESS draws a little, but every other load should be pretty much isolated from the charging circuit, I would think. I've had my bike sitting for 2 months or more without a battery maintainer hooked up and the battery was a little down but always has enough to start the bike.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I think pretty much zero. Maybe DESS draws a little, but every other load should be pretty much isolated from the charging circuit, I would think. I've had my bike sitting for 2 months or more without a battery maintainer hooked up and the battery was a little down but always has enough to start the bike.

Actually, from what I see on the wiring diagram the DESS is fed from the ignition switch. The ECM, cluster, and radio get power full time but I've no idea how much.

 

[Lew L]

Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:

Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.

Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:

Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.

Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L

Just don't turn the ignition on or hit the starter. You'll most likely fry your VOM, or at least blow its fuse!! :lecturef_smilie: It'll be interesting to get an idea what the current draw is.0

 

[UtahPete]

Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:

Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.

Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L

I would test the circuit draw at the positive terminal, I think. Start at the highest amp range then work down from there.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I would test the circuit draw at the positive terminal, I think. Start at the highest amp range then work down from there.

Either terminal will work equally well.

 

[Machinegunner]

Spread some newspapers under the Spyder so you can see where the electricity is leaking.

 

[Bart]

I think if it's more than 3Ma you have a parasitic draw. I'm just going off the top of my head as a standard.

 

[Bart]

I just went through my manual. 10-20 mA draw is within normal. Sorry.

 

[Lew L]

Either terminal will work equally well.

I'm not trying to start a tire pressure/ tire size/ oil brand, ect. war here but:

Removing the negative side is a lot safer on a neg ground vehicle. If you testing with the positive side un done and touch any grounded metal with a load---- you may fry a meter set on milliamps. Always start with the highest ampere setting on the meter .

Lew L