Hey Winnex3, I know where my oil was on the dip stick when hot as per manual. Tomorrow afternoon I will check it cold and compare it to yours. My body aches too much to do it right now, but I will do it. Hold off running it for now just to be safe. cueman
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Am I meeting something here about the oil
- Thread starter Winnex3
- Start date
Hey Winnex3, I know where my oil was on the dip stick when hot as per manual. Tomorrow afternoon I will check it cold and compare it to yours. My body aches too much to do it right now, but I will do it. Hold off running it for now just to be safe. cueman
KID Ryker
Member
That were mine was it's low
Winnex3
I'm sure you're aware of this fact, but I thought it might be helpful just in case....
It would be "bad practice" to just warm-up the engine to check the oil. Combustion gases that bypass the piston rings will contaminate your fresh oil with water vapor that will condense within your new engine leading to corrosion. Wait until you plan to go on a ride of many miles to make sure the oil get to full operating temperature and boils off any contamination from the startup and cold running process. There is no way to avoid this condensation of water vapor within the engine. Short rides can greatly shorten engine life. BMW bikes have been known to have this problem since adventure bike are operated by some really tough humans in super cold weather.
As your aware, for every gallon of fuel burned nearly a gallon of water is produce., thus you see the steam emitted from exhaust pipes on cold day.The German dirigibles of the 1930 era condensed the exhausted gasses from the diesel propulsion engines and stored the captured water onboard to maintain correct ballast.
I'm sure you're aware of this fact, but I thought it might be helpful just in case....
It would be "bad practice" to just warm-up the engine to check the oil. Combustion gases that bypass the piston rings will contaminate your fresh oil with water vapor that will condense within your new engine leading to corrosion. Wait until you plan to go on a ride of many miles to make sure the oil get to full operating temperature and boils off any contamination from the startup and cold running process. There is no way to avoid this condensation of water vapor within the engine. Short rides can greatly shorten engine life. BMW bikes have been known to have this problem since adventure bike are operated by some really tough humans in super cold weather.
As your aware, for every gallon of fuel burned nearly a gallon of water is produce., thus you see the steam emitted from exhaust pipes on cold day.The German dirigibles of the 1930 era condensed the exhausted gasses from the diesel propulsion engines and stored the captured water onboard to maintain correct ballast.
Winnex3
New member
Thank I know what your talking about but you just explained it much better than I could do a lot of people don’t know this my buddy says I’m crazy cause he keeps his bike in my garage and comes over now and then to start it I tell him you are doing more damage than good
WilliamTRyker
New member
OK, this thread has just turned into a TIL (Today I Learned). :thumbup:
Winnex3
New member
So I go back to the dealer and show them this pic 
and they tell me this is normal when cold I just think it’s to low I don’t even want to start it right now because it is-12 out to let it warm up like they say to do I know it will come up some but not that much please let me know what you guys think
and they tell me this is normal when cold I just think it’s to low I don’t even want to start it right now because it is-12 out to let it warm up like they say to do I know it will come up some but not that much please let me know what you guys think
Michaelscs
Member
I wouldn't worry about it until you are able to get the engine up to normal operating temp. You have oil there, and I'm sure it will come up to at least the minimum after the engine is warmed up. Definitely no concern about engine damage! If you add oil now you might overfill and it would suck to try and drain some.
Hey Winnex3, I just went out and checked the engine oil and it is like yours. At operating temperature it is half way up between the min and max line on the dip stick. This check was done on a 37 degree day so even though I rode it several miles I never heard the fan kick on. So IMO it is down 1/4 qt. at worse case, but if warmed up to the point of the cooling fans kicking on, maybe that would take it up to full. These are some strange machines! cueman
@Michaelscs I completely agree, no need to worry about damaging your engine at the oil level now indicating.
@Winnex3 When it warms up outside take it for a 20 mile ride and follow the instructions as per the manufacturer description exactly to measure you current level set. You can then top it off with fresh oil. Just pickup a quart of BRP oil and wait for the weather to warm. Relax your mind and dream about how much fun you gonna have this spring on the Ryder.
One thought coolant temperature and oil temperature will not coincide unless you take the bike for a good hard ride. It takes a long time to get the engine block/head/transmission up to temperature, at that point oil temperature will stabilize. Don't make the mistake of just idling the bike to get the coolant temperature in the green/operating range and expect the oil to be hot. Even a short ride of a few miles may not get the oil hot.
It if remember correctly from your screen shot the min/max amount of oil on the High/Low part of your oil stick represented 0.5 liter, or a little over 2 cups of oil. I don't know the quantity of oil needed to fill the sump, but I would guess perhaps 2 qts.???? You maybe approx 2 cups low at max, but that leaves plenty of oil for a short ride. Go look at the specs for your engine in the owner's manual check the max oil that can be load into the sump, check to see the min/max represented by the indicator lines on the stick. You can infer the amount of oil that will be or is need to top it off. This may give you some piece of mind.
@Winnex3
You need to address the low oil Service Bulletin #2 from BRP regarding inspection of the oil level in the main gearbox. Don't forget to get the dealership out to you house and have this accomplished free of charge.
You have inspected the main engine oil sump now and it appear to be low, now move onto the gearbox oil sump level. This box is not temperature dependent, in other words when you pull the inspection plug oil should be at a level that just reaches the lower point of the inspection hole even is the gearbox is cold. I may vary slightly, but you want to keep it full. Now we have reports of many gearboxes found below full after shipment from the factory.
I would suggest that after a few hundred miles you drain this gearbox oil and put in fresh oil to get the break-in swarth out of the gearbox. Do that this summer when the gearbox is really hot. Drain it within a few minutes of shutdown, let it drain overnight.
You need to address the low oil Service Bulletin #2 from BRP regarding inspection of the oil level in the main gearbox. Don't forget to get the dealership out to you house and have this accomplished free of charge.
You have inspected the main engine oil sump now and it appear to be low, now move onto the gearbox oil sump level. This box is not temperature dependent, in other words when you pull the inspection plug oil should be at a level that just reaches the lower point of the inspection hole even is the gearbox is cold. I may vary slightly, but you want to keep it full. Now we have reports of many gearboxes found below full after shipment from the factory.
I would suggest that after a few hundred miles you drain this gearbox oil and put in fresh oil to get the break-in swarth out of the gearbox. Do that this summer when the gearbox is really hot. Drain it within a few minutes of shutdown, let it drain overnight.
Winnex3
New member
thanks cueman that makes me feel better
Winnex3
New member
I will definitely will check that too the dealership got that memo the day before I picked mine up they said they checked it but I will check to be sure
IMO it would be a good idea to drain and replace all oils in engine, trans., and final drive at a couple hundred miles for peace of mind. You could also document oz. per cavity drained for future records. I realize not all oil will drain out but you may have a good base line. 
cueman
cueman
Winnex3
New member
Thanks everyone for the advice I don’t plan on running this until I get back from vacation I leave this Friday and hopefully it will be warmer when I get back I just want to check everything before I do run it around I like to do things my self I leaned a long time ago never trust the dealership I have had in the past dealership not this one but other ones forgetting to put oil cap on forgot to rotate tires forgot to put the inner fender back on I bought a motorcycle one time that when I got on the highway it did not handle right come to find out the rear tire was very low I had a dealership ship installed my rear tire on one of my bikes the wrong Direction just saying never take anything for granted always Check this stuff your self for peace of mind
Winnex3
New member
I feel cueman you are absolutely right on this oneIMO it would be a good idea to drain and replace all oils in engine, trans., and final drive at a couple hundred miles for peace of mind. You could also document oz. per cavity drained for future records. I realize not all oil will drain out but you may have a good base line.
Tslepebull
Active member
thanks cueman that makes me feel better
Winnex, I had already done the required oil level assment on mine using the procedure shown in the owners manual last week and mine took about 1/4 quart. Today I went out and pulled the dipstick cold it looked exactly like the image you posted. then went on a 50 mile ride and came back and went through the specified check procedure. My oil level was exactly at the top of the checkered section on the dip stick (full). I think you are ok.
Winnex3
New member
Thanks that’s does make me feel thanks for posting that
Sarge707
Active member
Your oil is fine and Replacing ALL lubricants at 200 miles is way over kill if you ask me! The oil change interval is 6000 miles or one year and the Gear and Final drive fluid change is 2 years or 12,000 miles. There is a 3000 mile check your supposed to have your dealer do but I never did and it never affected warranty. I have had 15 Rotax jet skies and this will be my 4th Can Am vehicle. It does not say that the oil should be changed at 3000 miles or Not?
I personally plan to do my first oil change at about 1,200 miles and then switch to synthetic and then change by the Schedule. I will change the gear oil in the late Fall before winter as well as the 2nd oil change so it sits happy in the winter.
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