• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Logic behind lifting entire leg to use brakes on 2016 RT-S rear brake pedal--

I have an RTL and don't feel that it is really "necessary" to lift your leg to operate the brake pedal.......IF you have your foot properly positioned to start with. But then it might be likely that you would catch the edge of the sole UNDER the pedal and waste valuable time.

This is part of the reason that I'm having a hand operated brake lever installed.

I'd be real interested in seeing how a hand operated brake lever is installed. Yesterday I almost lost it going too fast into a hard left turn. Needed to brake but also needed to keep my ass on the seat.
 
I'd be real interested in seeing how a hand operated brake lever is installed. Yesterday I almost lost it going too fast into a hard left turn. Needed to brake but also needed to keep my ass on the seat.

It is a front brake actuator assembly from Harley, that is mechanically attached to the Spyder's brake linkage and "pushes" the brake lever down just like normal operation with your foot. Or so that is the theory.

I had one installed on mine and am finding it totally inadequate.
It was barely adequate at first but now is producing less and less braking action.......to the point of almost being useless above 5 MPH or so.

I need to get it back to the shop for an inspection and re-bleed.
 
Does anyone know if the handbrake will fit a 2018? The site says through 2017, but not sure if they have it up to date. Sent them a note several days back but no response. Thanks
 
I think it is a fairly small shop and some might be on vacation over Thanksgiving.
If you don't hear back in a few more days, give them a call.

P.S. If I ever get mine working, I would be happy to arrange a test ride before you shell out $$$$ for something you might not like.
 
The problem with ryding with your foot on the pedal is it will throw out codes and limp modes. Many would feel better if they could and the solution is to install a stronger spring that will not depress the pedal with the weight of your foot but still make braking easy. With pegs you just have to slide your foot forward and press the brake but with floor boards you do have more of a problem. :thumbup:
 
The problem with ryding with your foot on the pedal is it will throw out codes and limp modes. Many would feel better if they could and the solution is to install a stronger spring that will not depress the pedal with the weight of your foot but still make braking easy. With pegs you just have to slide your foot forward and press the brake but with floor boards you do have more of a problem. :thumbup:

That is how I got my first "limp mode." Darn pair of new boots. :roflblack:
 
With my Seal Floorboards, you can rotate on the ball of your foot or your heel, depending where your foot is. They also fit easily on your RT's that have BRP floorboards. Remember, $75. off on any style Seal thru Christmas.
Ride in comfort,
John
 
The reason I went to the Spyder was to get away from the hand brake and clutch. When you have arthritis in your hands the last thing you want is hand controls. I had
a gold wing trike before the Syder and find the Spyder works just fine for me. I hope they never put hand brakes on this machine it is fine just the way it is.
 
It is a front brake actuator assembly from Harley, that is mechanically attached to the Spyder's brake linkage and "pushes" the brake lever down just like normal operation with your foot. Or so that is the theory.

I had one installed on mine and am finding it totally inadequate.
It was barely adequate at first but now is producing less and less braking action.......to the point of almost being useless above 5 MPH or so.

I need to get it back to the shop for an inspection and re-bleed.

It seems to me that a cantilever arm to pull on the brake pivot point would be better than trying to push the arm down.
 
It seems to me that a cantilever arm to pull on the brake pivot point would be better than trying to push the arm down.

I put "pushes" in quotes because I don't know if it pulls or pushes.
Regardless of how, the brake pedal assembly moves just as if you put your foot on it.

And my other comments weren't really fair.....or accurate.
Turns out that a slight mistake I made was casing the braking force to drop off rather dramatically.
Now that I have corrected that, the braking force is back to adequate again.

Dealer has installed a weaker return spring. I am anxious to see how that impacts the force required to pull it.
 
Has anyone found a fix for this? My right leg is cramping from having to lift and put on the brake. I did install the brake pedal extender and it doesnt seem to have helped much.
 
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