Belt issue, 2008 GS Manual (Silver)

[dschaub]

my belt has started to ride about a 1/4 inch off the rear pulley. I have tried adjusting moving both pulley side tighter and non pulley side looser and every other combination. This is not the first time I have adjusted my belt before when pulling my rear tire off for tire replacement. Its not a very difficult job. My friend has the same 2008 bike (Yellow) and he has run into the same issue. I have 32k miles. I don't really see belts going bad and I don't want to pay the dealer for something I can do myself..... Any ideas here guys ??

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking.....

Have you checked the front sprocket to make sure it is torqued to the correct spec's and not worn on the shaft..? have you checked the rear wheel bearings to see they are not worn..? have you checked the swing arm bushings for ware..? and the belt and sprocket teeth for wear..? not much else to check but if you have been adjusting the belt and now it will not work those are places to check. I usually adjust the right adjuster till I have the correct tension on the belt and then adjust the left adjuster to get the tracking but if that doesn't work something is worn down, bent or broken....:thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

DRIVE BELT

my belt has started to ride about a 1/4 inch off the rear pulley. I have tried adjusting moving both pulley side tighter and non pulley side looser and every other combination. This is not the first time I have adjusted my belt before when pulling my rear tire off for tire replacement. Its not a very difficult job. My friend has the same 2008 bike (Yellow) and he has run into the same issue. I have 32k miles. I don't really see belts going bad and I don't want to pay the dealer for something I can do myself..... Any ideas here guys ??

There are a few video's on how to move the belt side to side ........... The main issue is after it's set , when you try to tighten the nut .....wala it moves ....that is also addressed ..... My belt moves side to side slightly evertime I use the Spyder .....it's normal imho ...... but 1/4 inch is a bit too much distance from the Flange ...1/8 is ok .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[dschaub]

I have not touched the front pulley or the bolt holding it on, it looks fine when doing a visual inspection along with the belt (no signs of wear). I was thinking about pulling the back wheel off to see if the wheel bearings appear to show an issue. Not sure who to check swing arm bushings though, maybe with the wheel off see if I can move the swing arm side to side with any play... that would defiantly cause it not to ride correctly. Is there a video you guys recommend to watch. I see one on you tube there is one from Australia. It seems like a simple adjustment so if it docent dial in I must have something worn / wrong.

 

[Warlock]

I have not touched the front pulley or the bolt holding it on, it looks fine when doing a visual inspection along with the belt (no signs of wear). I was thinking about pulling the back wheel off to see if the wheel bearings appear to show an issue. Not sure who to check swing arm bushings though, maybe with the wheel off see if I can move the swing arm side to side with any play... that would defiantly cause it not to ride correctly. Is there a video you guys recommend to watch. I see one on you tube there is one from Australia. It seems like a simple adjustment so if it docent dial in I must have something worn / wrong.

Looking at the back of the bike, this is if the belt tension is fine, to move the belt closer to the inside tighten the left 1/8 and loosen the right 1/8. Tighten up and go for a ride. Stop the bike and check it. If it is still too far away do the same again in 1/8 turns till it gets where you like it. Never pay attention to the belt while backing up. Always check while moving forward. Sometimes takes a while to get it. Whenever you check it make sure you ride at least 1/8 of a mile. I kinda like the 1/8 thing:roflblack:
David

 

[dschaub]

I agree about the 1/8 of an inch riding off the shoulder. Before I changed the back tire the belt always rode against that shoulder and it made a lot of belt noises at lower speeds. Once it rode that 1/8 away that belt noise stopped. My friends 2008 GS had that same symptom as well.
I agree on the 1/8 of a turn on each side as well.

 

[Bob Denman]

Before you are checking the positioning of the belt on the pulley: are you riding (or rolling) the bike straight ahead for at least 30 feet or so?
That gives the belt a chance to sort of "get settled" in it's position on the pulleu.
(If you want to really scare yourself: watch the belt move around while you back up! :yikes

 

[dschaub]

every time I make an adjustment I tighten down the axil, drop it off the lift and take it for a 1/2 mile down the road and back. Backing up the bike it always does wired stuff. I have had this bike since original 2008 and know the bike like the back of my hand. This is normally not a hard thing to do. That's why I have reached out to this group. You guys always give me idea's what might be wrong when I am not sure.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BEARING FAILURE

I have not touched the front pulley or the bolt holding it on, it looks fine when doing a visual inspection along with the belt (no signs of wear). I was thinking about pulling the back wheel off to see if the wheel bearings appear to show an issue. Not sure who to check swing arm bushings though, maybe with the wheel off see if I can move the swing arm side to side with any play... that would defiantly cause it not to ride correctly. Is there a video you guys recommend to watch. I see one on you tube there is one from Australia. It seems like a simple adjustment so if it docent dial in I must have something worn / wrong.

Not very likely .... I can't remember anyone on this Forum reporting they had a wheel bearing failure ( on a Spyder ) ..... thousands have been changed ( at every tire change ) .......imho you are more likely to get a defective Bearing assembly than have a good one fail ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

every time I make an adjustment I tighten down the axil, drop it off the lift and take it for a 1/2 mile down the road and back. Backing up the bike it always does wired stuff. I have had this bike since original 2008 and know the bike like the back of my hand. This is normally not a hard thing to do. That's why I have reached out to this group. You guys always give me idea's what might be wrong when I am not sure.

Sorry... I had to ask! pps:

 

[Warlock]

Not very likely .... I can't remember anyone on this Forum reporting they had a wheel bearing failure ..... thousands have been changed ( at every tire change ) .......imho you are more likely to get a defective Bearing assembly than have a good one fail ...... Mike :thumbup:

Not a bad ideal to check the bearing. I know they are suppose to be changed around 25000 miles. I had one do this to me on a friends bike and it took me about 2 hrs to finally get it. About ready to pull my hair out. I never touch my adjustment nuts while changing a tire. I undo the shock bolt and loosen the belt that way. But I believe if the bearing was bad it would walk all over the place. You are headed in the right direction, just some are a pain in the butt to get it where you want it. Also check you rubber dampeners for wear.
David

 

[Warlock]

every time I make an adjustment I tighten down the axil, drop it off the lift and take it for a 1/2 mile down the road and back. Backing up the bike it always does wired stuff. I have had this bike since original 2008 and know the bike like the back of my hand. This is normally not a hard thing to do. That's why I have reached out to this group. You guys always give me idea's what might be wrong when I am not sure.

Was wondering if you have a belt tensioner on yours? I had tracked one down and had to re align it. It was making the belt stay away for the pulley. JAT
David

 

[dschaub]

I do not have a belt tensioner on my 2008 w/ 32k miles. I have read about them that it helps with the vibration but never went that route. I know the vibration causes the rear fender brackets to fail. I have actually had this happen and had them welded then did some body work on them and re-painted and they are holding up for now. I have 2 friends with this same bike that have replaced the rear fender with that new $300.00 fender that looks all different, it does not mount off the swing arm.

 

[Warlock]

I do not have a belt tensioner on my 2008 w/ 32k miles. I have read about them that it helps with the vibration but never went that route. I know the vibration causes the rear fender brackets to fail. I have actually had this happen and had them welded then did some body work on them and re-painted and they are holding up for now. I have 2 friends with this same bike that have replaced the rear fender with that new $300.00 fender that looks all different, it does not mount off the swing arm.

I replaced mine with the sports fender also. My buddy ordered the fender support that fits the 2013 model. It has the extra support brackets. Of course you have to order the support brackets. Doesn't come with the fender support.
David

 

[dschaub]

I ride with 3 guys with these bikes, 2 have that "Sports Fender" and the other replaced his fender brackets and got those additional support brackets. I like that look better than the sport fender but it costs a lot more so will most likely go with what you have when they go again. I am toying around with getting an F3. Sitting on them is much more comfortable with the more forward foot position. My right hip has some issues and my leg starts to go numb after an hour or so without stopping and walking it off. I like the F3 T with the hard bags. I'm waiting for a deal I cant pass up on one but until then I keep what I have. The 08 Manual goes like a bat out of hell and handles amazing... I hate to loose that on an F3 as I don't think they quite got that even with the triple. We have some crazy roads here in Ct (as I'm sure you do as well) that cruiser bikes or Harleys (except of course a V-Rod) can not stay anywhere close to us in the twisty's.

 

[Warlock]

I ride with 3 guys with these bikes, 2 have that "Sports Fender" and the other replaced his fender brackets and got those additional support brackets. I like that look better than the sport fender but it costs a lot more so will most likely go with what you have when they go again. I am toying around with getting an F3. Sitting on them is much more comfortable with the more forward foot position. My right hip has some issues and my leg starts to go numb after an hour or so without stopping and walking it off. I like the F3 T with the hard bags. I'm waiting for a deal I cant pass up on one but until then I keep what I have. The 08 Manual goes like a bat out of hell and handles amazing... I hate to loose that on an F3 as I don't think they quite got that even with the triple. We have some crazy roads here in Ct (as I'm sure you do as well) that cruiser bikes or Harleys (except of course a V-Rod) can not stay anywhere close to us in the twisty's.

I like the F3 also. But my 08 runs so good and just can't justify spending that much money. Wished I could find a wider fender like they make for the F3

 

[dschaub]

I'm pulling the back tire off tomorrow and inspect everything. Start from scratch on the belt adjustment after it is back together. I will advise what I find next week.

 

[dschaub]

Found Issue Trying to Keep the Belt Aligned on the Rear Pulley

I found the issue why I cant get the belt to stay on the rear pulley correctly. As soon as I pulled the rear axil and had the rear tire off the bike it was clear the bearing in the actual Pulley was bad. My dealer had the new bearing but there is a sleeve that goes between the axil and the bearing that somehow got "welded" together. It must have gotten real hot and I was not able to get the outside part of the bearing out of the Pulley hub. So the dealer has the pulley, ordering all the parts that goes in there (bearing, sleeve, 2 seals, C clip) and will have the old bearing part pressed out of the hub and install all the new parts. I was quoted about and hour labor, bearing was about $20.00, seals $15.00 each and not sure how much on the sleeve. This bearing is actually a double ball bearing unit (two bearings in one). So the pulley was not riding true on the axil and caused the belt to not stay aligned on the pulley correctly (was riding about 1/4 of an inch off the pulley).

Hope this helps others that have this issue.

 

[Warlock]

I found the issue why I cant get the belt to stay on the rear pulley correctly. As soon as I pulled the rear axil and had the rear tire off the bike it was clear the bearing in the actual Pulley was bad. My dealer had the new bearing but there is a sleeve that goes between the axil and the bearing that somehow got "welded" together. It must have gotten real hot and I was not able to get the outside part of the bearing out of the Pulley hub. So the dealer has the pulley, ordering all the parts that goes in there (bearing, sleeve, 2 seals, C clip) and will have the old bearing part pressed out of the hub and install all the new parts. I was quoted about and hour labor, bearing was about $20.00, seals $15.00 each and not sure how much on the sleeve. This bearing is actually a double ball bearing unit (two bearings in one). So the pulley was not riding true on the axil and caused the belt to not stay aligned on the pulley correctly (was riding about 1/4 of an inch off the pulley).

Hope this helps others that have this issue.

I just replaced all my bearing last tire change. Old ones felt good, but installed new ones anyway. Glad you found the problem. Makes it nice when it is found. Of course if you are like me every time I find the problem it cost me more money.
David

 

[dschaub]

Yes, as soon as I got the tire off I could clearly see where the issue was. My friend has the same bike (2008, manual, Yellow) with like 45k miles and he has not changed any bearings on his yet. He did have a bearing in the engine for the front pulley go bad and that cost him like 2k for the dealer to fix. He is a much bigger guy than me and loves to paint black lines down the road (burn outs). You just never know when parts will go. Being handy and having the tools sure saves a lot of $$$ though. Between me and my friend there is not much we cant fix on these bikes.