Key will not unlock the seat.

[bobw2000]

Looking for any vid on this. Try to unlock the seat to fuel the bike and it don't turn at all. Front compartment unlocks fine. Cable just does not move. I have to unlock it getting under the seat.Put a nylon tie on the cable to release the seat however I'm not getting any give on the key switch in that direction.:shocked:

2012 Spyder RT LIMITED;

 

[ARtraveler]

Looking for any vid on this. Try to unlock the seat to fuel the bike and it don't turn at all. Front compartment unlocks fine. Cable just does not move. I have to unlock it getting under the seat.Put a nylon tie on the cable to release the seat however I'm not getting any give on the key switch in that direction.:shocked:

2012 Spyder RT LIMITED;

Try pressing down on the seat as you activate the key. Something is out of alignment.

 

[2dogs]

Yep..........

Push down on the seat and maybe wiggle it a little. Mine's done that number of times. P!**#s me off. I got a small (diameter) steel cable and a couple of small swedges and made a loop on each end of the cable. One loop goes on the seat latch and the other runs up next to the glove box and comes out under the speaker grill. In an emergency you can lift out the grill and pull on the cable to release the seat. Like mentioned above lube the latch and play around with adjusting it and all should be good.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, if I understand you correctly, you CAN unlatch the seat with the nylon tie and raise it, BUT even with it RAISED, there is still no movement of the switch or cable in that direction. Correct?

If so, then that pretty much narrows things down to an internal problem with the switch, or the cable itself. Not much help from my end if it is internal to the switch without a switch replacement. But I have had occasion to need to screw with the cables up under there.

The cable end at that end of the cable is a sort of cylinder shaped bead. It slides into the socket at the bottom end of the switch assembly. Because the whole switch rotates from side to side with the handle bars, sometimes it just slides out of its socket under the right conditions. The cable that locks the glove compartment when the front wheels are locked, is notorious for popping out of the socket.

So, if this happened suddenly to you - meaning one day it's fine and the next day it's stuck - my sense is that the cable end has tried to slide out of the socket beneath the switch and is sort of jammed in place. If you take enough stuff apart up, you'll be able to access that area beneath the switch and be able to check it out and possibly pop it back into the socket. Investigate and see if you can feel any movement of the cable down at the latch end when trying to turn the switch. Also, possibly trying to operate the switch with the handle bars fully one direction or the other might allow it to pop back into place.

 

[mavrik]

Also...in a pinch, you can take off the right side cover and the cable will be exposed. You can pull on the cable sheathing and might let it loose

 

[larryd]

Does the key operate the latch when you have the seat up???

When you have the seat up does the key operate the seat latch?? If so you may have a binding problem...If not you could have ign. switch problem...

 

[Highwayman2013]

To get it open in a pinch pull the front ear of the seat on the right side out until you can reach in with a coat hanger or other stiff wire, hook the latch and pull forward.

 

[bobw2000]

So, if I understand you correctly, you CAN unlatch the seat with the nylon tie and raise it, BUT even with it RAISED, there is still no movement of the switch or cable in that direction. Correct?

If so, then that pretty much narrows things down to an internal problem with the switch, or the cable itself. Not much help from my end if it is internal to the switch without a switch replacement. But I have had occasion to need to screw with the cables up under there.

The cable end at that end of the cable is a sort of cylinder shaped bead. It slides into the socket at the bottom end of the switch assembly. Because the whole switch rotates from side to side with the handle bars, sometimes it just slides out of its socket under the right conditions. The cable that locks the glove compartment when the front wheels are locked, is notorious for popping out of the socket.

So, if this happened suddenly to you - meaning one day it's fine and the next day it's stuck - my sense is that the cable end has tried to slide out of the socket beneath the switch and is sort of jammed in place. If you take enough stuff apart up, you'll be able to access that area beneath the switch and be able to check it out and possibly pop it back into the socket. Investigate and see if you can feel any movement of the cable down at the latch end when trying to turn the switch. Also, possibly trying to operate the switch with the handle bars fully one direction or the other might allow it to pop back into place.

Pretty much you hit it right on. With the seat up there is no movement just like it's stuck hard.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Pretty much you hit it right on. With the seat up there is no movement just like it's stuck hard.

Hmmmm. Well, if you’ve ruled out any binding at the latch end of the cable, just work backwards towards the the switch. Click on that thumbnail picture in the other post for a bigger version. I’m leaning towards something under there where the cable connects to the underside of the switch. Once you remove enough panels and such, you’ll be able to see how things work under there. In the mean time, you’ve got a work around that works.

 

[bobw2000]

To get it open in a pinch pull the front ear of the seat on the right side out until you can reach in with a coat hanger or other stiff wire, hook the latch and pull forward.

Yep''' did that to do a temp latch release with a nylon tie. Good suggestion though. Thanks!

 

[cptjam]

Latch

Until you fix it, just remove the post that goes into the latch. If you remove the speaker grill, you can see if the cable popped off the switch. Have a helper manipulate it at the seat end while you watch the switch end. If the cable is ok, and connected, it’s the switch. Joe

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

POST REMOVAL

Until you fix it, just remove the post that goes into the latch. If you remove the speaker grill, you can see if the cable popped off the switch. Have a helper manipulate it at the seat end while you watch the switch end. If the cable is ok, and connected, it’s the switch. Joe

Just something to consider ...... That post serves an important function .... it locates and prevents seat movement L or R , forward or backward ........ So leave it there .... Just wire the latch open, this is actually easier and quicker than removing the post .....with no ill effects ...... You can actually wire the latch partially open and the seat will stay down but not secure, if you pull up on that side the seat will rise ....this is what I did a few years ago .... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[JerryB]

Hi Mike,

Re: it locates and prevents seat movement L or R , forward or backward

I cannot speak to this as regards a factory seat. However, I have a Corbin ( 2-piece ) seat. I removed this post & you would never know it is not there.

Just my experience,

Jerry Baumchen

PS) I would say to give removing it a try; if you are not satisfied, re-install it and do something else to solve the problem.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SEAT POST

Hi Mike,

Re: it locates and prevents seat movement L or R , forward or backward

I cannot speak to this as regards a factory seat. However, I have a Corbin ( 2-piece ) seat. I removed this post & you would never know it is not there.

Just my experience,

Jerry Baumchen

PS) I would say to give removing it a try; if you are not satisfied, re-install it and do something else to solve the problem.

Jerry everything works fine ................until it doesn't :dontknow: .........Mike :thumbup: