Rear shock info

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SHOCKS ISSUE

The brackets up front made all the difference in the world. Now to find a solution for the rear shock. Your brackets fixed the front.
David

I'm glad they are working for you :clap:...... I was confident they would .... How about when you are riding double ????? .... and my comments ,along with Space Tiger should get the rear like you need ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[JerryB]

Hi David,

Re: Now to find a solution for the rear shock.

Last year I was noticing that my rear shock was occasionally bottoming out as I would hit a pot-hole, etc. I only ride 1-up & am about 220 lbs.

I just bought a new rear shock, Part #70600411, from the ProCaliber website; about $75. And they are just across the river from me, so no shipping.

I simply did not think the much higher prices for the after-market shocks is worth it.

The shock I got is about 9 3/4" from one end to the other when compressed.



Unless I find someother parts in bad shape, broken, etc, I will just replace the shock itself. There is a local business in this area that does only motorcycle suspensions. While he has never taken on a Spyder shock, he does think that he can get it apart & reassembled as necessary.

I am of the opinion that a shock, with a load on it, will compress to its shortest length. It will take time but it will happen.

So, if a shock has a load ( weight ) on it ( the weight of the Spyder at the rear ), it will compress all the way. What stops this from happening is the spring. The spring provides the resistance to prevent the shock from compressing completely.

Anyone else have a thought on this?

Jerry Baumchen

 

[Warlock]

Hi David,

Re: Now to find a solution for the rear shock.

Last year I was noticing that my rear shock was occasionally bottoming out as I would hit a pot-hole, etc. I only ride 1-up & am about 220 lbs.

I just bought a new rear shock, Part #70600411, from the ProCaliber website; about $75. And they are just across the river from me, so no shipping.

I simply did not think the much higher prices for the after-market shocks is worth it.

The shock I got is about 9 3/4" from one end to the other when compressed.

View attachment 157616

Unless I find someother parts in bad shape, broken, etc, I will just replace the shock itself. There is a local business in this area that does only motorcycle suspensions. While he has never taken on a Spyder shock, he does think that he can get it apart & reassembled as necessary.

I am of the opinion that a shock, with a load on it, will compress to its shortest length. It will take time but it will happen.

So, if a shock has a load ( weight ) on it ( the weight of the Spyder at the rear ), it will compress all the way. What stops this from happening is the spring. The spring provides the resistance to prevent the shock from compressing completely.

Anyone else have a thought on this?

Jerry Baumchen

I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail. I can push mine down pretty easy while standing beside it. No evidence if any leaks. Thinking about getting a new shock like you bought and maybe adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.
David

 

[JerryB]

Hi David,

Re: I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail.

Yup.

Re: adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.

And I would be up for one of those; let us/me know if/when you find one.

Jerry Baumchen

 

[Warlock]

Hi David,

Re: I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail.

Yup.

Re: adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.

And I would be up for one of those; let us/me know if/when you find one.

Jerry Baumchen

Will share all the info here if it works out to the good. Will be a few months before I try this. Might even buy a used one to experiment on.

 

[spacetiger]

The 2 spring setup works fine. I think BRP changed springs because they found they could get a single spring (but made to be a 2 rate spring) cheaper than staying with 2 springs and the spacer.

I think you will find changing out the shorter (weaker) spring easier than replacing the 2 spring + spacer set up with a single rate spring. If someone would send me the shock, I could disassemble the shock and test the springs to confirm spring rates. That info could help you pick the right rate spring to replace either the short or both springs. Of course, you'd have to pay shipping both ends. My labor and use of test equipment is free.

I know I have read a lots of comments about springs losing their capacity over time, but I have not seen this short of a spring actually breaking. The spring material is good for all OEM manufactures (Chinese bikes aside) so I would be very surprised to see a spring loose a substantial amount of its spring rate. A few % might be lost over 100,000's spring cycles. So, unless you have more than 100K mikes on your spyder, I doubt your oem springs have lost too much of their capacity.

Another reason to consider only changing the shorter spring, the ID of the OEM spring ends are likely to be 2.25" and just short of 2.25; aftermarket springs are a uniform 2.25". I found I had to sand off some of the powder coating on the aftermarket spring to get the 2.25" ID spring to fit inside the top end fitting. The other end should fit nicely on the spacer. If you go with one single rate spring, the ends are not 2.25". When I went with a single spring, I used a 8" coil over sleeve that made setting the preload a breeze.

Jerry

 

[Warlock]

The 2 spring setup works fine. I think BRP changed springs because they found they could get a single spring (but made to be a 2 rate spring) cheaper than staying with 2 springs and the spacer.

I think you will find changing out the shorter (weaker) spring easier than replacing the 2 spring + spacer set up with a single rate spring. If someone would send me the shock, I could disassemble the shock and test the springs to confirm spring rates. That info could help you pick the right rate spring to replace either the short or both springs. Of course, you'd have to pay shipping both ends. My labor and use of test equipment is free.

I know I have read a lots of comments about springs losing their capacity over time, but I have not seen this short of a spring actually breaking. The spring material is good for all OEM manufactures (Chinese bikes aside) so I would be very surprised to see a spring loose a substantial amount of its spring rate. A few % might be lost over 100,000's spring cycles. So, unless you have more than 100K mikes on your spyder, I doubt your oem springs have lost too much of their capacity.

Another reason to consider only changing the shorter spring, the ID of the OEM spring ends are likely to be 2.25" and just short of 2.25; aftermarket springs are a uniform 2.25". I found I had to sand off some of the powder coating on the aftermarket spring to get the 2.25" ID spring to fit inside the top end fitting. The other end should fit nicely on the spacer. If you go with one single rate spring, the ends are not 2.25". When I went with a single spring, I used a 8" coil over sleeve that made setting the preload a breeze.

JerryView attachment 157622View attachment 157623

So what you are saying that they used 2 different rating springs on the shock. The taller spring would be rated more than the shorter one. Mine has the adjuster on the shock so a coil over sleeve wouldn't be needed. Would rather just go with one spring vs the 2 spring set up. I also think that Can Am used too weak of a spring out of the gate.
David

 

[spacetiger]

So what you are saying that they used 2 different rating springs on the shock. The taller spring would be rated more than the shorter one. Mine has the adjuster on the shock so a coil over sleeve wouldn't be needed. Would rather just go with one spring vs the 2 spring set up. I also think that Can Am used too weak of a spring out of the gate.
David

Taller is the more stout spring

Shorter is the solo rate spring

Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

Jerry

 

[Warlock]

Taller is the more stout spring

Shorter is the solo rate spring

Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

Jerry

I'm enjoying all this info from you. Might end up changing the small spring and maybe a new shock. Was looking into the tech section of repair manual. They show the measurement of the short and long spring. Shows short one as 3.94 free length and long as 4.882.
David

 

[Warlock]

Taller is the more stout spring

Shorter is the solo rate spring

Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

Jerry

Sent you a PM