Ok so I have an oil question

[Richzim275]

So I am a real newbie to motorcycles and Spyders. My oil light came on on my RT. I have 3200 miles on it. I know I need to get the oil serviced but the dealer I got it from is an hour and a half away. I don't have a trailer to get it there. Would it be recommended to get it serviced at a non-Can Am shop? If the recommendation is to take it to my dealer, where do I add oil? The owner's manual just explains how to check the oil and then to add 50 mls at a time but doesn't say where. I figured I could funnel it into the same spot the dipstick is in but I don't want that NOT to be where I add it and then risk messing up the Spyder. Forgive my newbieness.

 

[tip]

oil

First off - is the oil actually low?
If you do need to add just use the same hole that the dipstick is in.
Only way I know of.
Congratulations on your new bike

Have fun and be safe,
Tip

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My oil light came on on my RT. I have 3200 miles on it.

While it was running? If so, how long did you run it after the light came on? Loss of oil pressure is a SERIOUSLY SERIOUS problem that will quickly lead to total engine failure. The oil light should NOT have come on for any normal reason at 3200 miles other than during cluster boot up.

If I were you I would DO NOTHING to it but instead take it to the dealer right away. Something is BAD wrong. In this case even if it is a failed sensor and the oil level is OK, it is still bad wrong.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

The oil light should go out within 5 seconds of starting the engine, if it doesn't go out you've got problems.

 

[canamjhb]

Beg, borrow, steal, or rent a trailer and get it to your dealer. Your new Spyder should not have that happen and nothing good can come from driving it. A non-CanAm dealer will most likely not know how to correctly check the oil level and can give you false information. I'd call my dealer and tell them what's happening, make an appointment and get it in..... Good luck and keep us posted

 

[robhowen]

I agree with the others, be safe vs. sorry. If you want to get a feel for your oil level without starting the bike, check the oil level with the dipstick. Take it out, wipe it, put it all the way in and screw it down. Take it out again and read the level. The oil level, with the oil cold, should be approximately at the low bubble level. Doing this will give you an idea if you are low on oil. You add through the dipstick hole.

Rob

So I am a real newbie to motorcycles and Spyders. My oil light came on on my RT. I have 3200 miles on it. I know I need to get the oil serviced but the dealer I got it from is an hour and a half away. I don't have a trailer to get it there. Would it be recommended to get it serviced at a non-Can Am shop? If the recommendation is to take it to my dealer, where do I add oil? The owner's manual just explains how to check the oil and then to add 500 mls at a time but doesn't say where. I figured I could funnel it into the same spot the dipstick is in but I don't want that NOT to be where I add it and then risk messing up the Spyder. Forgive my newbieness.

 

[2dogs]

Yea, what Ann said.................

If you run that spyder with the oil light on you risk voiding your warrantee. Rent a trailer and take that thing to a Can Am dealer. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Richzim275]

Ok, so when I was installing my 12 v power supply I checked the oil. It is at the second bubble like was mentioned. I started the Spyder and the oil light stayed on for a second then it went away. I am planning on taking it to the dealer and have them look it over, via a trailer. Thanks for all the advice and that is the reason why I love this Spyder clan!!

 

[Easy Rider]

Ok, so when I was installing my 12 v power supply

I started the Spyder and the oil light stayed on for a second then it went away.

If that is the ONLY time the light comes on, you do NOT have a problem. No need for a dealer visit.
Waste of time and money.

And you did NOT mention what the level was when you checked it, at least not in this thread.

P.S. What exactly is a "12 V power suppy" .......on a vehicle that comes with one already built-in ??

 

[ARtraveler]

Ok, so when I was installing my 12 v power supply I checked the oil. It is at the second bubble like was mentioned. I started the Spyder and the oil light stayed on for a second then it went away. I am planning on taking it to the dealer and have them look it over, via a trailer. Thanks for all the advice and that is the reason why I love this Spyder clan!!

At 3200 miles and the mention that it came on for a second before going away when starting--I am thinking you are okay. That is normal start up procedure to check that the warning lights are working.

The 1330's usually do not use oil in between changes. The 998's used a bit and require topping off about every 500 miles or so.

The fill spout is where you take out the dipstick. :thumbup:

 

[Richzim275]

If that is the ONLY time the light comes on, you do NOT have a problem. No need for a dealer visit.
Waste of time and money.

And you did NOT mention what the level was when you checked it, at least not in this thread.

P.S. What exactly is a "12 V power suppy" .......on a vehicle that comes with one already built-in ??

It is a power supply that has a plug for a cigarette lighter and two USB ports. For charging electronics.

http://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=68

 

[Docster]

I may be the Debbie Downer here but this is a case of where reading the Owners Manual first or at least referring to it, would have been best......

 

[Richzim275]

I may be the Debbie Downer here but this is a case of where reading the Owners Manual first or at least referring to it, would have been best......

Col. I completely appreciate your advice but I did refer to the manual as I originally posted and saw no mention of where to add oil. Just the mention of the 50mL increments. Thanks for the help.

 

[canamjhb]

I misunderstood your original post. Oil light flashing on for a second when starting is normal. Check your level following the procedure exactly as described in your manual. If your level is OK, do not worry. You have no problem...

 

[Docster]

Col. I completely appreciate your advice but I did refer to the manual as I originally posted and saw no mention of where to add oil. Just the mention of the 50mL increments. Thanks for the help.

OK....... but it mentions where on the dash the lights are and which come on during initial startup. The other multiple oil threads and DIY section videos here address every aspect of oil change/adding, etc.

Really, IMHO the best way to become a new Spyder owner is to read the manual front to back(repeat often), use this site's resources to learn as much about your bike as possible as there's likely no basic issue that hasn't been addressed already, then perhaps focus on farkles. The time spent here reading and learning has saved me hundreds of dollars and I've only had my Spyder 4 months.

 

[teninospyder]

oil and the owners manual

OK....... but it mentions where on the dash the lights are and which come on during initial startup. The other multiple oil threads and DIY section videos here address every aspect of oil change/adding, etc.

Really, IMHO the best way to become a new Spyder owner is to read the manual front to back(repeat often), use this site's resources to learn as much about your bike as possible as there's likely no basic issue that hasn't been addressed already, then perhaps focus on farkles. The time spent here reading and learning has saved me hundreds of dollars and I've only had my Spyder 4 months.

--------------------------------

About the owners manual, and a few things that BRP doesn't seem to care about. I read my owners manual often, and recently had to have the ACS replaced on my 2014RTL. First point the 2014 BPR RTL manual is incorrect in the picture of what "up" and "down" is for the actual control. It show stiff (harder) ride as the lowest position on the bar chart and soft ride as the highest position on the bar chart.

Secondly.....after a dealer oil change this week (4th since new), and noting at home that for the first time the dip stick was only up to the "MIN" mark, I was ready to tear into the dealer.......only to check here and find a "HUGE" history of emails dating back to late 2014 wherein it is noted that BRP made significant changes to the oil level requirements......but didn't bother sending notices out to anyone except apparently dealers - some of which apparently ignored it because my oil changes at other dealers until now had always shown the oil at the "MAX" mark !!!

So.....reading any info from BRP now is always suspicious in my mind - especially for a $30,000 machine !!

Their flat rate book is another issue, but I discussed that under the ACS threads.

 

[ARtraveler]

--------------------------------

About the owners manual, and a few things that BRP doesn't seem to care about. I read my owners manual often, and recently had to have the ACS replaced on my 2014RTL. First point the 2014 BPR RTL manual is incorrect in the picture of what "up" and "down" is for the actual control. It show stiff (harder) ride as the lowest position on the bar chart and soft ride as the highest position on the bar chart.

Secondly.....after a dealer oil change this week (4th since new), and noting at home that for the first time the dip stick was only up to the "MIN" mark, I was ready to tear into the dealer.......only to check here and find a "HUGE" history of emails dating back to late 2014 wherein it is noted that BRP made significant changes to the oil level requirements......but didn't bother sending notices out to anyone except apparently dealers - some of which apparently ignored it because my oil changes at other dealers until now had always shown the oil at the "MAX" mark !!!

So.....reading any info from BRP now is always suspicious in my mind - especially for a $30,000 machine !!

Their flat rate book is another issue, but I discussed that under the ACS threads.

RE: Manuals

Over the years, the manuals have always been "not" perfect. Little glitches have appeared. As new models come out, it appears that there is a lot of copy/paste going on. Proofreading seems to be an issue also.

One would think that as "issues" appear, they get noted and corrected as they happen--so that the "next" iteration of the manual is improved. It appears that this does not always happen.

Since I have always got the "new" bikes in early spring--I got a manual off line and that was some of my winter reading in the early years.

There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site. So if there is a question because something is not clear--just fire away, and help is not far. We sometimes get it figured out without technical help from the mother ship. :yes:

 

[Docster]

RE: Manuals

Over the years, the manuals have always been "not" perfect. Little glitches have appeared. As new models come out, it appears that there is a lot of copy/paste going on. Proofreading seems to be an issue also.

One would think that as "issues" appear, they get noted and corrected as they happen--so that the "next" iteration of the manual is improved. It appears that this does not always happen.

Since I have always got the "new" bikes in early spring--I got a manual off line and that was some of my winter reading in the early years.

There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site. So if there is a question because something is not clear--just fire away, and help is not far. We sometimes get it figured out without technical help from the mother ship. :yes:

I agree there's many, many knowledgeable people here most of whom have addressed the basic issues that us new owners stumble upon. Here's a suggestion for other newbies that's worked well for me. Read through the forums and bookmark what one may anticipate as important sooner or later. Saves a lot of time and effort when one needs info. I spent most of my first 3 months here gathering bookmarked threads into a reference library of sorts. If I have a question about oil, brakes, tires, specific issues, DIY projects/videos, poor owners manual instructions, Farkle recommendations, etc., the discussion and answers are just a click away.

 

[teninospyder]

Missing the point??

RE: Manuals

Over the years, the manuals have always been "not" perfect. Little glitches have appeared. As new models come out, it appears that there is a lot of copy/paste going on. Proofreading seems to be an issue also.

One would think that as "issues" appear, they get noted and corrected as they happen--so that the "next" iteration of the manual is improved. It appears that this does not always happen.

Since I have always got the "new" bikes in early spring--I got a manual off line and that was some of my winter reading in the early years.

There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site. So if there is a question because something is not clear--just fire away, and help is not far. We sometimes get it figured out without technical help from the mother ship. :yes:

--------------------
as you say you are a consumer advocate, I am a little disappointed in the tone of your response to me. Maybe I'm taking it wrong. If I am I apologize and I am sure everyone will let me know.

I have in the past and even now had many things in my life that take up precious time and frankly I don't have the reading inclination to spend a lot of my time scanning 100s or 1,000s of posts and reading about everything that: could go wrong, may go wrong, didn't go wrong, and why they didn't, wouldn't, couldn't, shouldn't, can't fix it. - before it happens. Having to discover that the recommended oil level - as stated in the owners manual of a vehicle I purchased in 2014 - has gone thru major revisions since then without me being notified somehow by the manufacturer, goes well beyond my responsibility to know as a buyer. BRP's handling of the issue (including not being willing to simply make and send out new dipsticks or a correction sticker for next to the oil fill hole) has proven since this was first noted that they don't really have a "Customer Care" attitude.

When I have the time - and I am curious - or I REALLY need to know something, I agree that I have found MANY usable or interesting pieces of information on this forum and on youtube.
From reading what I do read in here, there is much to be learned about your issues from the issues of others. There are also many very helpful hints and procedure discussions - for when you have an issue and want insight or help.

I think your flavor about reading all the subjects and posts because I can learn a lot from other people who did or didn't go to the mother ship, while true, is not a consumer advocate posture. If the "Mother Ship" really cared.....They would read these posts about issues and respond with fixes and benefits for ALL. At that point, THEY, would be the Consumer Advocates )

 

[Easy Rider]

--------------------
, I am a little disappointed in the tone of your response to me.

And I could say the same thing about your last two posts too.

We ALL would be better off not trying to interpret the "tone" of text communications and instead trying to focus on and address the CONTENT.
That is, stick to the facts of the matter and sincere opinions about those facts......and NOT get derailed off on a discussion of personalities or communication styles.

But then you probably won't like the "tone" of that comment either.