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Refused to sell me a tire..........

Interesting! My local store not only sells them to me, they order them and mount them for me… Of course I take in the rims to save the labor. They cannot however, balance the rear one. It doesn't fit on their machine.

thehawk
I live in Round Rock as well and I'm curious where you bring your tires? Thanks!:2thumbs::2thumbs:
 
I remember

Do you remember this TV program intro?. 'The Outer Limits' controlled 1 hour. The US government controls the other 23....


I remember, but my stepson calls me a dinosaur anyway. I'd like to ask, how one obtains the map, with the places visited for their posts?
 
With the Kenda's it's not so much a problem with weak sidewalls (though that is true). It's more a problem with a very weak tread area. The tread cords are not strong enough to hold the tread area of the tire flat. So it balloons out with centrifugal force and wears out in the middle. Also, at speed, you're only getting maybe 3" of tread contact with the road surface. Not great for traction but should help with fuel mileage.

That would explain why I'm getting fantastic gas mileage on my 2014RT, but starting to noticeably wear the center tread of the rear tire at only 8k. I'll lower the pressure and see how it does for the rest of its life.
 
Not Hardly. There are hundreds of Goldwings if not thousands running car tires on the rear and have been for years and thousands of miles with no reported incidents.

Lots of reported incidents. Flat profile car tires on a leaning bike are a recipe for very poor cornering ability and a bike that will get all kinds of squirrely when the tire rides up on its edge. We have had 2 such incidents in our riding club alone causing not insignificant incidents.
 
I've always wondered just how well an automotive tire will seat on a "True" motorcycle tire?
After all: the differences in the rims are pretty obvious! nojoke
 
I've always wondered just how well an automotive tire will seat on a "True" motorcycle tire?
After all: the differences in the rims are pretty obvious! nojoke

They can be installed and will hold air. The bead does not seat well at all.
 
Late to this discussion I know. But back about 3 or 4 years I was interested in getting whitewall M/C tires for my BMW bagger. I knew Dunlop made them and there was a joint Harley/BMW motorcycle dealer near me so I inquired there. Now, the H-D baggers and my BMW were the same weight and had the same specs for tires. There was a WW listed for the front of my bike, but not for the rear.

The parts manager at the dealership looked it up in a thick tire bible he had on the counter and shook his head and said he would neither install the tire on the rear nor would he sell one to me to have installed somewhere else. Even though the bikes were equals, and the tire specs were the same, those Dunlops were listed in his tire book as OK for Harley and no mention of a BMW rear application.

So I guess they're not allowed to use deductive reasoning, if it's not listed in their book as a suitable tire for that model bike, they say no go.
 
SPECIFIC - INFO

That would explain why I'm getting fantastic gas mileage on my 2014RT, but starting to noticeably wear the center tread of the rear tire at only 8k. I'll lower the pressure and see how it does for the rest of its life.
Pete sorry but I haven't memorized what tires you now have .... nor pretty much anyone else's :dontknow: .... I believe you have the Kenda rear tire but that is a guess ...and I hate guessing :banghead: .... However if it is ...NOTHING will correct the poor construction .... folks here have tried every psi possible with the same result ...It just wears in the center first ...... The only possible way to lessen this , is to never drive more than 30 mph ( maybe that's even to high :yikes: ) ..... Please EVERYONE be specific about what you are discussing , it will save a lot of time and wrong answers .....jmho ... Mike :thumbup:
 
Let me clarify my post. I didn't argue with anyone over their choice of tires. I was saying, based on some forum arguments I read, The Dark Siders are very sensitive about any negative reference to their tires. I could care less what tire someone chooses to use. I personally choose a tire for high speed, sticking like glue and excellent handling characteristics. I could care less about wear. Having ridden a BMW sport bike and changing expensive tires at 15 hundred miles, (1500) was the norm. Having a Goldwing and getting over 6000 miles was a bonus. I'll see what I get out of my stock Kendas and then will decide what replacements to use. If I can get a season of riding out of my tires, 6000 plus miles, I'm happy. Sorry I even brought up the Dark Siders.

Maddoggie......my apologies....it was not the intention of my post to intimate that you, personally, had argued with anyone. It was just a response to your generalisation that "you" ( being "anyone") shouldn't argue with them as they are very passionate about their car tyres ;). I agree completely, and was trying to convey that most of the arguments used against darksiding are unproven, so arguing with them was of little use. It's so hard to convey facial expressions in the written language;):thumbup:

Pete
 
Hello,

So for new tires then do you take the rim off yourself and take it in or bring the whole bike in. I figure when you pull in with a spyder wont they see it and not put it on anyways?

Jim
yes, you have to take it off yourself in most cases. It is straightforward enough, but not easy. You also need a 36mm wrench and socket, a torque wrench capable of 150 pounds, and a 15 mm socket with a long power handle. I just did my first, and after a 3,324 3week trip on a car tire, would definitely do it again. With the OE Kenda, it was a struggle to keep the Spyder from wanting to make tighter turns than was necessary. The Michelin I installed tracks the corner exactly as needed.
 
This is all you need...

TC-CLASSIC-2.jpg


Or this...

dscn0868-L.jpg


and some of these...

0904_4wd_07_z+2001_toyota_tacoma_prerunner+dyna_beads.jpg
 
The 1330 is designed to turn slower than the 990. That's why the redline difference.

Kind of but not really.

The additional rotating mass of three cylinders is probably the determining factor in the lower max. RPM limit.

The additional HP/torque allows higher gearing and lower engine speeds at a given speed.....but the engine itself is not "designed to turn slower".
 
Sure it is! They wanted more torque right out of the hole, so they tuned for that: NOT for high end horsepower! :thumbup:
 
Pete sorry but I haven't memorized what tires you now have .... nor pretty much anyone else's .... I believe you have the Kenda rear tire but that is a guess ...and I hate guessing .... However if it is ...NOTHING will correct the poor construction .... folks here have tried every psi possible with the same result ...It just wears in the center first ...... The only possible way to lessen this , is to never drive more than 30 mph ( maybe that's even to high ) ..... Please EVERYONE be specific about what you are discussing , it will save a lot of time and wrong answers .....jmho ... Mike

Sorry, you're right I should have been more specific. I'm at about 8k on the original Kenda rear tire and showing noticeable wear in the center. I'm thinking that is because the tire pressure is too high at 28# riding one-up so I'm lowering it to 25# and see if that makes a difference in the remaining life of the tire.
 
It won't.
I'm about 99.4% sure that I agree... :D
Here's why:
Over-inflation of tires is usually manifested by increased wear in the center section of the tread.
(What you're currently seeing.)
Under-inflation usually ends up wearing out the outer portions of the tread first...
Usually!
Since the Kendas are so flimsy; they actually "balloon" at higher speeds if they're under-inflated.

Result: the center section of the tread was doomed from the start! :banghead:

Having said this...
There might be a pressure setting that will work perfectly.
But if anyone has found it: they're keeping the good news to themselves! :roflblack:
 
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