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Brake resovior filters

red

New member
I am on my second master cylinder. I want to put a gasoline filter in the lines to ensure the brake fluid stays clean with no foreign materials to the master.
What I need to know is whether the brake fluid will break down the paper in the filter making the problems worse. Another question does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit for wheel cylinders. Just the o rings etc.
this is for a 2008 gss thank you.
 
I do not understand how foreign materials would/could get into the closed baking system
The brake fluid would destroy a paper filter in short order. (look what it does to the paint on your car)
A filter in a brake line would have a pretty negative impact on the high pressure needed for the fluid to push the caliper pistons.
I really don't think putting a filter in a brake line can be done.
But if it can be or has been, I sure like to learn about it.
 
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I would not do it. Nothing but issues going this route.

It is so rare to get foreign particles in brake fluid there must be something else going on here.
 
a question ,

are you using the type 4 brake mix ? and not the regular dot fluids ? that might have a clue as why the need for cylinder repair , I guess it is something b-r-p had tried and the type 4 is the best for these cycles .. just a thought , might not mean a thing in the grand scheme of things ...
 
Brake resovior fluid

I suppose that i wasn't clear. I of course don't want to put a filter between the pressure side of the master cylinder and the caliper but rather between the resovior and the master cylinder which is not under any pressure. I agree that Ron is most likely right about just inviting more problems It was just something I was thinking about.
The second part of the question was this. If I wanted to repair or rebuild a part why does BRP only offer for instance a new master cylinder or a caliper for hundreds of dollars when what is needed is a two dollar seal. Seems to me back in the "old days" a mechanic fixed things not just replaced the hole unit and to often incorrectly. This is not to take away from the shops or individuals who still have pride in the work.
And just for the heck of it BRP doesn't have some magic brake fluid and Dot 4 same as prestone or whoevers the difference is 4 has a higher boiling point than 3.
 
I note the operator's manual for the 2008 GS calls for DOT 4 brake fluid. If that's what BRP calls out, that's what you should use. I also believe I've read here on the site about earlier Spyders having trouble with brake fluid getting contaminated rather quickly. (Maybe I'm confusing brakes with SM5 clutches.) Since the fluid is hygroscopic it might be a good idea to change it yearly vice every two years as the manual recommends, particularly if you are not logging lots of miles per year.
 
I suppose that i wasn't clear. I of course don't want to put a filter between the pressure side of the master cylinder and the caliper but rather between the resovior and the master cylinder which is not under any pressure. I agree that Ron is most likely right about just inviting more problems It was just something I was thinking about.
The second part of the question was this. If I wanted to repair or rebuild a part why does BRP only offer for instance a new master cylinder or a caliper for hundreds of dollars when what is needed is a two dollar seal. Seems to me back in the "old days" a mechanic fixed things not just replaced the hole unit and to often incorrectly. This is not to take away from the shops or individuals who still have pride in the work.
And just for the heck of it BRP doesn't have some magic brake fluid and Dot 4 same as prestone or whoevers the difference is 4 has a higher boiling point than 3.

I have not had a MC apart. What kind of seal do you need? if it is an O-Ring it may be possible to get that fairly cheaply.
 
---And just for the heck of it BRP doesn't have some magic brake fluid and Dot 4 same as prestone or whoevers the difference is 4 has a higher boiling point than 3 ----- just for the heck of it , thanks for the clarification of , brake fluids and broil over temps
 
not every "novel idea" is a good one, and this is a real stinker.
sure makes me chuckle though, in a good natured way.

 
DOT 3 and 4 are basically the same. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point and is less hygroscopic than DOT4, however, you can buy certain types of DOT 4 brake fluid that has the same moisture absorbing qualities as DOT 3. They are more expensive and harder to find. (DOT 4.1 is totally different and DON'T mix the two.)

The Spyder does not have a closed braking system. The master cylinder reservoir is technically open, because of the way it vents. If you are getting that much contamination you might try replacing the seal on the screw top on top of the reservoir. They can be found at any auto parts store and IIRC they are the same as for a Dodge etc. Plus, the lid does have an up side and a down side, even though it is not readily apparent.

Also, because of where it is located, it does get a ton of road grime contamination and a 2 year bleed should be done, or at the very least suck the reservoir out, not empty, but close with a syringe or similar and replace the fluid with clean stuff because this is the source of the contamination.
 
there are slight differences between DOT 3 and DOT 4.
Many places state they are interchangeable. I for one would use only what the manufacturer recommends. I know several shops that now use DOT 5.1 in everything. I must be old school because I would not.

here is a good read on brake fluid
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

I believe there was a recall on 2008 GS models for the brakes. It is covered here in another thread somewhere on the forum.
Not sure if it relevant to the original question though.

I still do not see why there is a need for a filter. If the master cylinder seal that KX5062 mentioned is working, how would anything get into the reservoir? Maybe take his advice and get that new seal to start with after your fluid replacement?.

I agree about having to buy the entire master cylinder for near 250 bucks when replacing a seal would be sufficient. Since the master cylinder is used on other vehicles, maybe a seal is available if you can figure out who to ask.
 
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