Tire Mileage

[gerald37]

What is the average tire mileage on the Spyder? My Spyder has 10,800 miles on it and the tire ware is not to the ware bars but getting close. They seem to have deep tread even below the ware bar. More than my Goldwing ever had. The person that owned this I don't think they drove it real fast and really took care of it. When I had all the plastic off it everything was so clean and looked new. I don't think it was ever rode in the rain.

Has anyone on here used Dyna Beads in their tires? I had 4 Oz's of them so I did put 2 Oz's in each front tires. I have not rode it on the highway since I put them in.

 

[Chupaca]

Oh no you.. didn't...

Just ask a tire question...:yikes: not going further than stating I got close to 20,000 on Kendas (oem) tires and the fronts 33,000. Too many variables..hyea:

 

[Bandera]

average tire ware for me.

I have been averaging 16 k on the front tires and 12 k on the rear tire.

Michael

 

[gerald37]

Tires

I have been averaging 16 k on the front tires and 12 k on the rear tire.

Michael

That is what mine looks like. Do you run them any pass the ware bars?

 

[Bandera]

tires

The front tires ware on the inside and I go to just below the ware bars. The rear tire usually a bit below the ware bars. I live in a rural area and lots of stone roads, so usually do not let it get too far down. Also here in Texas speeds are 70-85 mph so want to make sure I have a bit of rubber so I do not have a blowout.


I am going to be going to get my first laser alignment when they come out this way. I hope that will make my front tires last a bit longer.

Michael

 

[ARtraveler]

A question without a firm and good answer. And then, what happens if you add aftermarket brands instead of OEM.

My story: Five different Spyders and OEM on all of the replacements. Dealer will not install aftermarket tires for me.

Fronts: I consistently get 20 - 25K per tire. Bad alignment one time caused pre-mature wear on the 2011.

Rear tires: 13 - 15K per tire. 2014 came out with a softer rubber compound and I ended with 8,900 on that one.

That's my story and I am sticking to it. :yes::yes::yes:

 

[MikeT]

Clarification Please

My rear tire tread(8500 miles) is down to the "blocks" that are located at various places across the rear tire. My tire depth gauge reads 6/32nds at this point, so these can't be the wear bars???? I went on google and found out that Kendas use the little triangles around the side of the tire near the tread as the wear indicators. It seems to me if the tread got that far down, it would be bald.

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..

Always check across from the triangle on the side of your tire ....

My rear tire tread(8500 miles) is down to the "blocks" that are located at various places across the rear tire. My tire depth gauge reads 6/32nds at this point, so these can't be the wear bars???? I went on google and found out that Kendas use the little triangles around the side of the tire near the tread as the wear indicators. It seems to me if the tread got that far down, it would be bald.

 

[RTman10]

After only 1000 miles in the saddle I still find the handling of my RT interesting. There is much talk here of reducing tyre pressures to improve the handling. As I obviously have Kendra fitted is it possible to reduce the pressure in these below the recommended 20 and 28 psi and if so does it help.

 

[Peter Aawen]

.... As I obviously have Kendra fitted is it possible to reduce the pressure in these below the recommended 20 and 28 psi and if so does it help.

Dropping the pressure in the very lightly constructed Kenda tires is REALLY not a good idea & it DEFINITELY does NOT help!! :yikes:

Not only will reducing the pressures in the OE Kendas make their already lightweight sidewalls much more prone to damage from road hazards, but it will also make their already 'less than normal strength' lightly constructed sidewalls AND the tread belts & compound FAAAAAAARRRR more prone to flexing & therefore heat damage & explosive catastrohpic failure!! :shocked:

As far as I can see, if you want improved ride, handling, & traction, then your only real choice is to fit properly constructed car tires & run them at the (lower) pressures appropriate for the load your Spyder imposes upon them. :dontknow:

MikeT, the tread doesn't 'wear down' to those triangles, but rather the triangles are there to help you locate the actual 'wear bars' that are found in the main grooves of the tread pattern - the bars that are found in the grooves where there are no corresponding triangles are actually water or ice breakers intended to help stabilise the tread blocks & to force any water or snow/ice that collects in those grooves as you drive on compromised road surfaces out of the circumferential grooves via the sipes so the tires will maintain traction!! If the water & snow/ice collect in those grooves & isn't forced out, you end up hydroplaning!! :sour:

So look for the triangles to help you locate the true 'wear bars' & if you find any bars in the grooves without the corresponding triangles, then they aren't 'wear bars'! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[RTman10]

Dropping the pressure in the very lightly constructed Kenda tires is REALLY not a good idea & it DEFINITELY does NOT help!! :yikes:

Not only will reducing the pressures in the OE Kendas make their already lightweight sidewalls much more prone to damage from road hazards, but it will also make their already 'less than normal strength' lightly constructed sidewalls AND the tread belts & compound FAAAAAAARRRR more prone to flexing & therefore heat damage & explosive catastrohpic failure!! :shocked:

As far as I can see, if you want improved ride, handling, & traction, then your only real choice is to fit properly constructed car tires & run them at the (lower) pressures appropriate for the load your Spyder imposes upon them. :dontknow:

MikeT, the tread doesn't 'wear down' to those triangles, but rather the triangles are there to help you locate the actual 'wear bars' that are found in the main grooves of the tread pattern - the bars that are found in the grooves where there are no corresponding triangles are actually water or ice breakers intended to help stabilise the tread blocks & to force any water or snow/ice that collects in those grooves as you drive on compromised road surfaces out of the circumferential grooves via the sipes so the tires will maintain traction!! If the water & snow/ice collect in those grooves & isn't forced out, you end up hydroplaning!! :sour:

So look for the triangles to help you locate the true 'wear bars' & if you find any bars in the grooves without the corresponding triangles, then they aren't 'wear bars'! :lecturef_smilie:

Wont try that then. I suspect though that over here in the old world finding car tyres to fit the back would be difficult. Hopefully that's some time away though.

 

[MikeT]

After only 1000 miles in the saddle I still find the handling of my RT interesting. There is much talk here of reducing tyre pressures to improve the handling. As I obviously have Kendra fitted is it possible to reduce the pressure in these below the recommended 20 and 28 psi and if so does it help.

I just reviewed my RTL's owner manual on tire pressures. The pressures(20-fronts/28-rear) are the "nominal" pressures. You can lower them 2 PSI, and be within BRP's guidelines. Likewise you can raise them 2 PSI.
Mike:welcome:

 

[Bob Denman]

Time to call in "The Naked Cop"... :roflblack:



Tire mileage is a really personal thing. Your riding habits, the load carried upon the bike, and even the road surfaces; will make the difference.
Having said that: there is no doubt that a decent automotive style tire will have little problems with outperforming the OEM Kenda tires...

So burn them up first, and then get serious about putting a decent set of tires on your bike! :thumbup:

 

[murphybrown]

Dyna beads....

What is the average tire mileage on the Spyder? My Spyder has 10,800 miles on it and the tire ware is not to the ware bars but getting close. They seem to have deep tread even below the ware bar. More than my Goldwing ever had. The person that owned this I don't think they drove it real fast and really took care of it. When I had all the plastic off it everything was so clean and looked new. I don't think it was ever rode in the rain.

Has anyone on here used Dyna Beads in their tires? I had 4 Oz's of them so I did put 2 Oz's in each front tires. I have not rode it on the highway since I put them in.

I switched to Dyna beads for balancing. I'm a believer. I have 26k on my OEM fronts and easily will get 30K before wear bars show. Rear tire I run the Khumo with beads and right now have 15k and lots of tread left. I ryde the '16 F3t .. so yep I'm a believer in the beads.. When I did my research was clear to get the glass beads and not the ceramic ones. :clap:

 

[A1A]

Wont try that then. I suspect though that over here in the old world finding car tyres to fit the back would be difficult. Hopefully that's some time away though.

It looks like you ride 2-up most of the time. In that case stick with the higher tire pressure my friend.
Cheers!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

INSIDE TIRE WEAR

The front tires ware on the inside and I go to just below the ware bars. The rear tire usually a bit below the ware bars. I live in a rural area and lots of stone roads, so usually do not let it get too far down. Also here in Texas speeds are 70-85 mph so want to make sure I have a bit of rubber so I do not have a blowout.


I am going to be going to get my first laser alignment when they come out this way. I hope that will make my front tires last a bit longer.

Michael

Yes get the Lazer alignment ...however if it's the one from BRP it may not cure the INSIDE wear issue..... the only Lazer system that I have ever heard of that works is from ROLO/ TRU-TRAC , like from Squared Away ...... with a proper alignment your tires will wear evenly ...... Mike :thumbup: