Charcoal canister air filter replacement

[KX5062]

Recently there was another thread about the 30k miles requirement for replacing the air filter for the charcoal canister, part #709000524.

http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/cam/53f54766f870021dbc21b84f/fuel-system

Without really bothering to look at it I ordered the replacement, which was about $40 to my door. Once it arrived I was surprised at how simple it was, and how it had just 2 screws holding the halves together. Since it was a new part and I didn't want to risk damaging it I didn't investigate any further.

I pulled the original filter assembly and replaced it. I think Doc Humphreys has a video about it, but it's really super easily once you get the Tupperware off.

Anyway, that's not the purpose of my posting.

What I'm posting about is the fact that you don't need to buy a new one. It does separate in the middle. There is no glue or any permanent sealing. Just unscrew the 2 halves and you are left with a dry foam filter element melded to a metal support screen. Just take your air compressor and blow it clean and reassemble. Job done. BTW, it was filthy. The air intake tube is straight down toward the rear tire and belt area, so it gets a lot of dust and grime. Dust on the inside, grime on the outside.

So if you want, save yourself $40 (or so) and just clean it. There's no need to replace it. :2thumbs:

 

[WellsboroSpyder]

Just my two cents

Recently there was another thread about the 30k miles requirement for replacing the air filter for the charcoal canister, part #709000524.

http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/cam/53f54766f870021dbc21b84f/fuel-system

Without really bothering to look at it I ordered the replacement, which was about $40 to my door. Once it arrived I was surprised at how simple it was, and how it had just 2 screws holding the halves together. Since it was a new part and I didn't want to risk damaging it I didn't investigate any further.

I pulled the original filter assembly and replaced it. I think Doc Humphreys has a video about it, but it's really super easily once you get the Tupperware off.

Anyway, that's not the purpose of my posting.

What I'm posting about is the fact that you don't need to buy a new one. It does separate in the middle. There is no glue or any permanent sealing. Just unscrew the 2 halves and you are left with a dry foam filter element melded to a metal support screen. Just take your air compressor and blow it clean and reassemble. Job done. BTW, it was filthy. The air intake tube is straight down toward the rear tire and belt area, so it gets a lot of dust and grime. Dust on the inside, grime on the outside.

So if you want, save yourself $40 (or so) and just clean it. There's no need to replace it. :2thumbs:

You mentioned charcoal canister air filter. Are you sure you replaced that filter ? Charcoal would be black and is used for absorbing impurities. I'm assuming the charcoal canister filter would be on the fuel system to absorb fuel vapors. In plumbing I have installed charcoal filters to remove chlorine, sulfur , .etc. The charcoal can only absorb a certain amount of impurities which is why it is replaced. Blowing with air will only remove loose dirt but not correct what it is designed for, I would think.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

You mentioned charcoal canister air filter. Are you sure you replaced that filter ? Charcoal would be black and is used for absorbing impurities. I'm assuming the charcoal canister filter would be on the fuel system to absorb fuel vapors. In plumbing I have installed charcoal filters to remove chlorine, sulfur , .etc. The charcoal can only absorb a certain amount of impurities which is why it is replaced. Blowing with air will only remove loose dirt but not correct what it is designed for, I would think.

I was not aware it came apart. It is a crankcase filter. Just filters the extra air going in/coming out of the crankcase. Does not collect fuel vapor. There is no return line. One hose to the byke and one open port that allows filtered air in. I imagine it is a modified design of a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation) on a cage. It is there to stop back pressure from building up in the engine. If it clogged, it would cause the engine to seep oil out of the weakest place. I think that blowing it out would not cause an issue as long as there would be no restriction.

 

[Highwayman2013]

It's a pre-filter to keep crud out of the charcoal canister. Number 60: http://www.powersportswarehouse.com...6,_2014/02-_Fuel_System_|~14Y1401/91146/91333

 

[Roadster Renovations]

It's a pre-filter to keep crud out of the charcoal canister. Number 60: http://www.powersportswarehouse.com...6,_2014/02-_Fuel_System_|~14Y1401/91146/91333

We crud, disregard most of what I said then! Thanks for clarifying, Highwayman!

 

[KX5062]

It's a pre-filter to keep crud out of the charcoal canister. Number 60: http://www.powersportswarehouse.com...6,_2014/02-_Fuel_System_|~14Y1401/91146/91333

Yep. That's it. :thumbup:

 

[Highwayman2013]

Recently there was another thread about the 30k miles requirement for replacing the air filter for the charcoal canister, part #709000524.

http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/cam/53f54766f870021dbc21b84f/fuel-system

Without really bothering to look at it I ordered the replacement, which was about $40 to my door. Once it arrived I was surprised at how simple it was, and how it had just 2 screws holding the halves together. Since it was a new part and I didn't want to risk damaging it I didn't investigate any further.

I pulled the original filter assembly and replaced it. I think Doc Humphreys has a video about it, but it's really super easily once you get the Tupperware off.

Anyway, that's not the purpose of my posting.

What I'm posting about is the fact that you don't need to buy a new one. It does separate in the middle. There is no glue or any permanent sealing. Just unscrew the 2 halves and you are left with a dry foam filter element melded to a metal support screen. Just take your air compressor and blow it clean and reassemble. Job done. BTW, it was filthy. The air intake tube is straight down toward the rear tire and belt area, so it gets a lot of dust and grime. Dust on the inside, grime on the outside.

So if you want, save yourself $40 (or so) and just clean it. There's no need to replace it. :2thumbs:

Thanks for the info that it can be cleaned.

 

[WellsboroSpyder]

Thanks for the info that it can be cleaned.

Does the charcoal canister ever need replaced ? On a Ford truck I had when, when the charcoal canister clogged, I could not get fuel in the tank due to back pressure in the fuel tank. The pump would stop at every gallon thinking it was full.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Does the charcoal canister ever need replaced ? On a Ford truck I had when, when the charcoal canister clogged, I could not get fuel in the tank due to back pressure in the fuel tank. The pump would stop at every gallon thinking it was full.

Very good question.........following!

 

[KX5062]

Does the charcoal canister ever need replaced ? On a Ford truck I had when, when the charcoal canister clogged, I could not get fuel in the tank due to back pressure in the fuel tank. The pump would stop at every gallon thinking it was full.

Honestly, with the poor design on my 2014 RT's gas tank filler neck I would guess that it is prone to clogging. Mine, with others, complain about how difficult it is to get the gas tank full, so I would suspect that there is also a problem with the charcoal canister as well.

It's purely a suspicion, but it is based on experience. For example, my old '08 RS had the fuel boiling issue that was common in that model (and others). I found that when (among other things done) I removed the CC it ran much better. Plus, when I removed it, it weighed a ton, which I suspect was caused by fuel build up. So.......:dontknow:

 

[KX5062]

Since there was some confusion about what part I was speaking about, I decided to include some pictures of it.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

RS, GS , VS. 1330 RT CANNISTER

Honestly, with the poor design on my 2014 RT's gas tank filler neck I would guess that it is prone to clogging. Mine, with others, complain about how difficult it is to get the gas tank full, so I would suspect that there is also a problem with the charcoal canister as well.

It's purely a suspicion, but it is based on experience. For example, my old '08 RS had the fuel boiling issue that was common in that model (and others). I found that when (among other things done) I removed the CC it ran much better. Plus, when I removed it, it weighed a ton, which I suspect was caused by fuel build up. So.......:dontknow:

I was concerned about this possibility also ...... if you follow the fuel / vapor line routing I don't believe The RT 1330 canister ....CAN ... become contaminated by gas ....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[agedbikeman]

I was looking through the service manual to see what service items I had to do on my 14 RT as 28000miles is just coming up and in the list was this canister mentioned in this post, thinking what the ""&@? is that and where is it found, so I turned to :spyder:L and Bingo there was this post, problem solved.
Thanks to all involved in it

 

[JayBros]

Since I'm getting close to my 28K service I went looking for that canister pre-filter and the service manual I have contains a blown up picture of it and an arrow pointing to behind the left saddlebag. Is that really where it's located? Thanks.

 

[KX5062]

Kind of, but not quite. It is in front of the saddlebag as you face the bike. Once the side panel cover plastic comes off, it is very easy to access.