PLASTIC POST & GROMMET CHANGE FOR - RT

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Still a bit cold to ride ( regularly :gaah: ) ....... so I have decided to change the way the upper side panels are attached to my RT .... ..you know those pesky plastic posts that are attached to the Fake chrome bolts w/ safety ( tamperproof type ) torx heads ... ( they are T-15 and are cheap at NAPA - 2 @ $2.00 ). I have removed the posts and the grommets and am now working on positioning the nuts for new " REAL BOLTS ". I have some leftover nut-clips from another project so I'll start with those ......... I'll keep you posted ....... Mike :thumbup:......................So those Chrome bolts ...aren't bolts ...they are threaded similar to sheet metal screws .... I'm going to a make a sheet metal ( or poly plastic ) disc to cover the grommet hole .... pop rivet it on to the panel ..... put the upper panel back in place and put a pencil ( or similar ) in the OEM hole and mark the Disc .... take the panel off, and drill a small hole 3/32 on the mark ..... put the upper panel on .... and use the OEM chrome bolt / screw thing to attach the panel ....... If you do this ....REMEMBER TO TAKE THOSE CHROME THINGS OFF IF YOU SEND SPYDER TO DEALER FOR WORK ..... DON'T LEAVE A NOTE OR EVEN LEAVE A MESSAGE .... THEY WILL JUST BREAK IT AND BLAME ....YOU :banghead::banghead::banghead: .....................I started with a thin cardboard template that I taped in place over where the grommets were.... in order to MARK for the HOLE .... the front one I had to do with a sewing needle held in a vise grip, because the cardboard is 1/2" below the surface ..... the back was easier , the sharpie could reach..... Unless you space the sheet metal piece at least 3/8 " out , the OEM chrome screw won't reach ..... so you may need to get something different ...... Mike ............... Go to the REVISION THREAD - I posted on this , I came up with a better way than the sheet metal .:yes:

 

[pegasus1300]

this is very interesting. Sometimes when I take those panels off and put them back on they push the grommets thru. That has happened twice now. Once the rubber fell all the way thru and once I lost it in the black hole of the inside of the Spyder. Interested to see what happens.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ANSWERS ON HOW TO CHANGE THE MOUNTING

Go back up and re-read orig. post ...... I added answers.............:yes::yes::yes:...... Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Mike,
Are you going to get someone to take some pictures of this modification for you? :dontknow:
Good luck with it! :thumbup:

:bbq::bbq::bbq:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

PICS

Mike,
Are you going to get someone to take some pictures of this modification for you? :dontknow:
Good luck with it! :thumbup:

:bbq::bbq::bbq:

Robert , I'm " OLD SCHOOL ", when you needed to be able to convey your thoughts and idea's without pictures.....I think my explanation does that ....... Remember " BOOKS ", kids wouldn't have any idea what to do with one now :shocked: ........ :dontknow: ..... or not ........... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

I'm a "visual" kind of guy...
If I can see it: I can figure it out. :thumbup:

 

[ravseren]

panels

I used some Harley-Davidson bag clips mounted through the panels to prevent the panels from falling of enroute to anywhere. Not the least expensive solution, but very secure.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

NEW INFO ADDED ....AGAIN

SEE ORIG POST ON THIS NEW INFO ...... IN GREEN.............MIKE :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Still a bit cold to ride ( regularly :gaah: ) ....... so I have decided to change the way the upper side panels are attached to my RT .... ..you know those pesky plastic posts that are attached to the Fake chrome bolts w/ safety ( tamperproof type ) torx heads ... ( they are T-15 and are cheap at NAPA - 2 @ $2.00 ). I have removed the posts and the grommets and am now working on positioning the nuts for new " REAL BOLTS ". I have some leftover nut-clips from another project so I'll start with those ......... I'll keep you posted ....... Mike :thumbup:......................So those Chrome bolts ...aren't bolts ...they are threaded similar to sheet metal screws .... I'm going to a make a sheet metal ( or poly plastic ) disc to cover the grommet hole .... pop rivet it on to the panel ..... put the upper panel back in place and put a pencil ( or similar ) in the OEM hole and mark the Disc .... take the panel off, and drill a small hole 3/32 on the mark ..... put the upper panel on .... and use the OEM chrome bolt / screw thing to attach the panel ....... If you do this ....REMEMBER TO TAKE THOSE CHROME THINGS OFF IF YOU SEND SPYDER TO DEALER FOR WORK ..... DON'T LEAVE A NOTE OR EVEN LEAVE A MESSAGE .... THEY WILL JUST BREAK IT AND BLAME ....YOU :banghead::banghead::banghead: .....................I started with a thin cardboard template that I taped in place over where the grommets were.... in order to MARK for the HOLE .... the front one I had to do with a sewing needle held in a vise grip, because the cardboard is 1/2" below the surface ..... the back was easier , the sharpie could reach..... Unless you space the sheet metal piece at least 3/8 " out , the OEM chrome screw won't reach ..... so you may need to get something different ...... Mike :thumbup:

What real benefit does this get you? Seems to me to be a lot of hassle, both making the mod and prepping for the dealer, that doesn't really buy you anything. I haven't had any problem with those posts and grommets in my 3 years of owning two RTs.

 

[pitzerwm]

Well, MIke, since they say that a picture is worth 1000 words, you seem to be short a few thousand:yes::yes:

 

[jaherbst]

Robert , I'm " OLD SCHOOL ", when you needed to be able to convey your thoughts and idea's without pictures.....I think my explanation does that ....... Remember " BOOKS ", kids wouldn't have any idea what to do with one now :shocked: ........ :dontknow: ..... or not ........... Mike :thumbup:

​A picture is worth 999 words. Also a lot of money under the right circumstances! :joke:

​Jack

 

[Chupaca]

Nice...

Good way to pass the time away and get some mods done...I never understood the logic to that section anyway...so when your done will you post a discription of how well it works and how good it looks....:roflblack: How can you do all these mods, inventions, creations etc and not be able to take a picture and post it..?? :dontknow: I'm older and half as adept and manage....:roflblack: Well done as usual.....:clap:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

What real benefit does this get you? Seems to me to be a lot of hassle, both making the mod and prepping for the dealer, that doesn't really buy you anything. I haven't had any problem with those posts and grommets in my 3 years of owning two RTs.

" IMS " You are perfect :barf::congrats: :2excited:....however most of the rest of us aren't and some like me have difficulties with those " pesky " posts down there, so I posted this for " THEM " not you ..... because you never have any problems with ..." ANYTHING "..... except ME :lecturef_smilie: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: .....PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS MOD........and ... PUT ME ON YOUR IGNORE LIST SO YOU CAN SLEEP AT NIGHT :yikes: - :clap: :clap: :clap: .... I have no sympathy for you IMS, you read what I post :lecturef_smilie: :dg1:.... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Stumpy6Guns]

Mike, did you try a transfer punch to mark the holes? I highly recommend a set for everyone who makes stuff - it's the best way to transfer a through-hole's position. No good for a blind hole, though!

http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Myron

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Mike... :shocked:
I'm low vision: the green doesn't show up with enough contrast for me to see it... pps:

 

[Large1]

:shocked: Mike... :shocked:
I'm low vision: the green doesn't show up with enough contrast for me to see it... pps:

Bob here is a copy of Mike's Green Post but in Black

.I started with a thin cardboard template that I taped in place over where the grommets were.... in order to MARK for the HOLE .... the front one I had to do with a sewing needle held in a vise grip, because the cardboard is 1/2" below the surface ..... the back was easier , the sharpie could reach..... Unless you space the sheet metal piece at least 3/8 " out , the OEM chrome screw won't reach ..... so you may need to get something different ...... Mike :thumbup:

IT SHOULD BE EASIER FOR YOU

 

[Bob Denman]

Many Thanks! :thumbup:
That is MUCH better!nojoke

 

[Large1]

Many Thanks! :thumbup:
That is MUCH better!nojoke

Another way that my help is to Highlight the part that is hard to read It will change the background and the Font color so it is more readable

 

[Bob Denman]

pps: I forgot about that little trick... :banghead:

We had a member in here, who once changed his text color to white; just to fool with us! nojoke

He used it when discussing "The bike that shall not be named"

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

better info

I did a new thread on this subject with a better product than the : sheet metal...... Mike :thumbup: