Dragonrider
New member
Anyone try installing the sport rack? It must be the translation from French that makes the instructions so obtuse.
I don't think a "step-by-step" is warranted, but there are a couple of tricks/issues worth a comment:
1 - the instructions say to remove the side left side panel and battery - take a deep breath & do it.(You can install the Battery Tender(r) cable as the same time anyway...)
- - Using a ratchet driver was the best way to access the various fasteners, given the tight spaces...
2. The opening cable - it just fits the holes available, but it does fit.
3. The plastic nut that holds the cable pull in place must fit INSIDE the frame supports & there's just enough room. I found that twisting the cable to start the threads worked best, and the torque to keep it in place is just beyond finger tight.
4. The cable must be routed into the frame, to fit in the extrusion channel- I found a round hole in the frame, just aft of the battery that seemed to work, and leave enough cable length. Be careful of the routing, or you'll never be able to get the battery to fit properly - route the cable over the rear battery retainers. Reading the instructions, you would think there was an easier way to route the cable, but I didn't find it.
5. Fitting the extrusion into the frame was tougher than it sounds -everything is a close/tight fit. Don't rest the extrusion on the seat - it won't stay, and make a nasty scratch on your new paint.
6. The only other issue was the bottom cover on the rack, which fit rather snugly around the taillights - but it did fit.
This took me a little over an hour to do - mainly because this was my first attempt at Spyder disassembly. Be sure to use a dab of thread lock on all the fastners (except those cheap plastic rivets..)
Send me a PM, if you have any questions :thumbup:
I don't think a "step-by-step" is warranted, but there are a couple of tricks/issues worth a comment:
1 - the instructions say to remove the side left side panel and battery - take a deep breath & do it.(You can install the Battery Tender(r) cable as the same time anyway...)
- - Using a ratchet driver was the best way to access the various fasteners, given the tight spaces...
2. The opening cable - it just fits the holes available, but it does fit.
3. The plastic nut that holds the cable pull in place must fit INSIDE the frame supports & there's just enough room. I found that twisting the cable to start the threads worked best, and the torque to keep it in place is just beyond finger tight.
4. The cable must be routed into the frame, to fit in the extrusion channel- I found a round hole in the frame, just aft of the battery that seemed to work, and leave enough cable length. Be careful of the routing, or you'll never be able to get the battery to fit properly - route the cable over the rear battery retainers. Reading the instructions, you would think there was an easier way to route the cable, but I didn't find it.
5. Fitting the extrusion into the frame was tougher than it sounds -everything is a close/tight fit. Don't rest the extrusion on the seat - it won't stay, and make a nasty scratch on your new paint.

6. The only other issue was the bottom cover on the rack, which fit rather snugly around the taillights - but it did fit.
This took me a little over an hour to do - mainly because this was my first attempt at Spyder disassembly. Be sure to use a dab of thread lock on all the fastners (except those cheap plastic rivets..)
Send me a PM, if you have any questions :thumbup: