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F3-L rear tyre replacement - stuck

Peteoz

Well-known member
The tyre has finally arrived, so I have begun wheel removal. I'm stuck already. Trying to access the top bolt on the brake caliper is virtually impossible on the F3-L. You can get a wrench on it, but there is no room to turn it, even with a ratchet. It looks like you might have to take the muffler off and get a socket onto it. I notice however on Finless and Lamonts videos, the muffler is still on. It's either an F3-L thing due to the panniers, or I am missing something......surely not, I hear you say.
Here is what I can see-
photo 1 is from under the muffler looking up at the caliper, showing both bolts.
photo 2 is directly from the side of the muffler snd the top bolt is nowhere in sight. You can only approach the bokt ag s 45 degree angle from below. Is this what others have been faced with, or is the muffler possibly in a different position on the F3-L?
IMG_1102.jpgIMG_1103.jpg

Any advice gratefully accepted.
 
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That may indeed let me get a socket on it. Is there any thing to watch out for, or just release the handbrake and unbolt?

Remove the spring. Most are spline d. Mark it with a marker to be put back in the same spot.
David
 
Thanks Highwayman and Warlock.....I might have to leave it for tonight. We are experiencing electrical storms, and I lose my wireless network when I go into the garage, and mobile coverage has just disappeared. I'll go have a look and mark it, and then restart tomorrow. It's just not my day today.....my new Frogg Toggs arrived in the largest size and they are too short and too small to fit over my 5XLT jacket, my bike lift lost a bolt somewhere on the garage floor NEVER to be seen again, and now we are about to experience a blackout....a beer may well be in order :thumbup:
 
Remove the lower bolt from the shock. Then jack the bike up and the wheel will lower relative to the muffler. There is no need to undo the parking brake components. The bolts for the caliper will be easily accessible and the belt will slip off without tension.
 
Ahhhhhhh. Of course........thanks JC and Firefly. Because I'm doing the wheel change on a harbour freight type lift, I wanted to break the tighter nuts like the axle and caliper before I had it in the air. I'll pop the shock bolt and find some way to stabilise the F3 before I break the caliper bolts.
 
Ahhhhhhh. Of course........thanks JC and Firefly. Because I'm doing the wheel change on a harbour freight type lift, I wanted to break the tighter nuts like the axle and caliper before I had it in the air. I'll pop the shock bolt and find some way to stabilise the F3 before I break the caliper bolts.

Once the tire is on the ground (after you remove the lower shock bolt the tire will remain on the ground as you lift) you can apply downward force to break them loose without worry about un-stabilizing the Spyder as you will be pushing the rear tire into the ground.
 
Well That's Interesting

So I pulled the rear sprocket off the wheel and removed the cush drives (all labelled of course), and then I spotted this.....
IMG_1111.jpg The missing chunks were close by. What could have caused this?
p.s. The wheel is with the tyre guy....the look on his face was priceless when he saw the wheel with integrated hub.
 
Seeing that your Spyder is pretty close to brand new, I'd be guessing that the missing O ring chunks were caused by it not being lined up properly when the whole was all pushed together for the first time - & it hasn't been off since, has it?! They don't generally come with chunks out of them like that; & it's not as if you had to do a lot of levering near the O ring to get it off!! (You didn't, did you?? I don't recall there being any need?!?) :shocked:

Getting it all sorted OK?
 
Seeing that your Spyder is pretty close to brand new, I'd be guessing that the missing O ring chunks were caused by it not being lined up properly when the whole was all pushed together for the first time - & it hasn't been off since, has it?! They don't generally come with chunks out of them like that; & it's not as if you had to do a lot of levering near the O ring to get it off!! (You didn't, did you?? I don't recall there being any need?!?) :shocked:

Getting it all sorted OK?

Going great Peter. Well, sort of......I haven't called you yet because I will probably be pestering you during the reinstall tomorrow arvo/Friday.....plus Col up in Qld has dropped me a couple of email hints. The look on the tyre guys face was priceless when I pulled the one piece F3 wheel out of the boot of the car. He did say he hopes to find some way to balance it (as long as he can work out how to change the tyre....he was bemused by the fact that the Kenda had "Special Motorcycle Use" stamped on it, and said "so I guess a special motorcycle is a car, based on that rim and bead?"

......and no, the sprocket didn't require a great deal of levering...I am keeping notes so I can document the differences in process between the old wheels and the new ones. The new one piece looks pretty easy compared to the older ones, but we'll find out at reassembly, eh?
 
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So I pulled the rear sprocket off the wheel and removed the cush drives (all labelled of course), and then I spotted this.....
View attachment 141072 The missing chunks were close by. What could have caused this?
p.s. The wheel is with the tyre guy....the look on his face was priceless when he saw the wheel with integrated hub.

Yep you need a new one..Really haven't seen one that doesn't have chunks missing from it..
 
CHUNKS

Yep you need a new one..Really haven't seen one that doesn't have chunks missing from it..
Welllllllllllllllll, I've had more than a few wheels off for tire changes and have not had to replace that " O " ring on any of them ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
BALANCING REAR TIRE

Going great Peter. Well, sort of......I haven't called you yet because I will probably be pestering you during the reinstall tomorrow arvo/Friday.....plus Col up in Qld has dropped me a couple of email hints. The look on the tyre guys face was priceless when I pulled the one piece F3 wheel out of the boot of the car. He did say he hopes to find some way to balance it (as long as he can work out how to change the tyre....he was bemused by the fact that the Kenda had "Special Motorcycle Use" stamped on it, and said "so I guess a special motorcycle is a car, based on that rim and bead?"

......and no, the sprocket didn't require a great deal of levering...I am keeping notes so I can document the differences in process between the old wheels and the new ones. The new one piece looks pretty easy compared to the older ones, bug we'll find out at feassembly, eh?
Pete I didn't balance my last four - and haven't had any issues ..... of course they were all quality Car tires ...... And the " Special Motorcycle Use " stamp is actually a WARNING ( not a recommendation ) .... To not use it on any car even a super light " smart car " ...... because the tire is not strong enough to carry the LOAD :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: .... No BS on this .......... Mike :thumbup:
 
Welllllllllllllllll, I've had more than a few wheels off for tire changes and have not had to replace that " O " ring on any of them ........ Mike :thumbup:

I believe it maybe related to how much crud and corrosion is in that area too that is damaging the o ring..I like to put a light layer of lubricant around that area and o ring..
 
I have had to replace that o-ring twice. But they did not look as bad as yours. I have a full set of bearings a seals on hand just in case I need them. All I have used so far is the o-ring. That's over 5 rear tires and 2 Spyders.

A motorcycle shop can balance that wheel for you on a static balancer. Some dynamic balancers will work if it has the small center shaft. Again likely only at a motorcycle shop. My last tire I put on I used beads. I think that is what I will do from now on.
 
Just put 18oz of Ride-On in the tire and it will self balance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pete I didn't balance my last four - and haven't had any issues ..... of course they were all quality Car tires ...... And the " Special Motorcycle Use " stamp is actually a WARNING ( not a recommendation ) .... To not use it on any car even a super light " smart car " ...... because the tire is not strong enough to carry the LOAD :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: .... No BS on this .......... Mike :thumbup:

Yeah, I remember you saying that about the balancing earlier, Mike, so I'm not really worried about it. It will be interesting to see what he comes up with though.:2thumbs:
 
I believe it maybe related to how much crud and corrosion is in that area too that is damaging the o ring..I like to put a light layer of lubricant around that area and o ring..

It's only got around 3000kms on it, Triker, so there shouldn't be too much crud and corrosion on it yet.:shocked:. It had a light layer of lubricant still on it and I'll be putting some white lithium grease on the new one.:thumbup:
 
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