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Buying my first Spyder--> Some questions . . .

sturgisrun

New member
I have been riding since 1961 and currently own a Hot Rod Valkyrie- BUT - I just turned 69 yrs. and have bad knees and weak hands.

Therefor- I have decided I need a 3 wheeler and the Spyder looks like the superior choice.

I think I have decided on an F3 and I am looking for a DEAL... I will have one by the end of January. After all these years on Bikes I know the best time to buy New or Used is in Dec.& Jan.- so I am on a Mission
------
My questions
1- I am undecided on which Transmission though I am leaning towards the 6 speed Manual since Auto.Transmissions are more complicated and therefor have more places you can have trouble.
*What is the 'Real World' reliability of both transmissions?

2- I know there are alot of 2015 & 2016 'Left Overs' around...
*Anyone have any tips on dealers anywhere in US offering Killer Deals on any of these Left Overs?
*What are the differences in the 2015 - 2016 -& 2017 F3??
*I am also interested in Used- anybody know of any for sale???

3- Is the B.E.S.T. Extended 3 yr. Warranty worth the price?
*Where can I find the best price for this.
-------------

Thanx in advance for any help you can give me.
sturgisrun
1999 Cream/Yellow Valkyrie->Milled Heads / Polished Ports / 18"Cherry bomb glass Packs in 4" Truck Stacks / Champion Fiberglass Hard Bags / InterstateFuel Tank / 125HP-115Ft.Lbs.
2010 Infiniti G37x Coupe->Everything done except a Blower / Dynoed / 399HP
2006 Freightliner Sprinter Van
 
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You are absolutely right! The best time is to buy in November or December during the cold seasons.

Since, it is a new design for BRP. I try not to get the first new technology unless it is tested. But that is my opinion.

1- I am undecided on which Transmission though I am leaning towards the 6 speed Manual since Auto.Transmissions are more complicated and therefor have more places you can have trouble.
*What is the 'Real World' reliability of both transmissions? Transmission is the way to go; however, the clutch is normally hard to squeeze. If you have arthritis than clutch would not be a recommendation. I prefer the auto transmission.

2- I know there are alot of 2015 & 2016 'Left Overs' around...
*Anyone have any tips on dealers anywhere in US offering Killer Deals on any of these Left Overs? ANSWER: http://www.cycletrader.com/Can-Am-F...,FL,PSN,VWS,SDL&sort=featured:asc&radius=150&

*What are the differences in the 2015 - 2016 -& 2017 F3?? ANSWER: The 2015 or 2016 models are the ones to get. Unless, you prefer the 2017 Can am Spyder models S-Mode (Allows you to shut off the Nanny system so that you can drift).

*I am also interested in Used- anybody know of any for sale???

3- Is the B.E.S.T. Extended 3 yr. Warranty worth the price? ANSWER: I believe it is worth it. I prefer the F3-S, because of less electronics such as the radio and heated grips.
*Where can I find the best price for this. I do a search on a cycle gear nationwide, and find the best deal you are looking for. I think the new models is good rather than the use ones, because you are the operator; therefore, your the one that broke it in. But that is MY opinion. I heard that IMO or EGRS is good, and I am still figuring what that is or what the Warranty consist of.

Here is a website about the Can Am Spyder, and I thought you might want to enjoy:
 
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:welcome: All good questions and most can be answered by a good test drive. It's going to be up to you--depending on your likes, dislikes, and budget.

RE: Semi auto vs. manual--most of us prefer the semi auto. It will cost $1500 or so more initially. No advantage mileage wise. Shifting ease is what most like.

There is very little difference between 2015, 2016, and 2017. The 1330-three cylinder technology is well broken in since 2014. No issues with mine.

I recommend zeroing in on model and type of transmission. Then you can begin the hunt for best deal. :thumbup:
 
:welcome: :2thumbs:
The transmissions are the same: it's in the engagement of them, that things start looking different.
The SM-6 is exactly like every other motorcycle transmission out there... It is normally engaged, until you pull in the clutch lever, to back the plates away from each other.
The SE-6 uses an engagement clutch that is hydraulically activated. It is normally dis-engaged, and you have to get the pressures built up (by increasing the rpms...) to make it engage.
They both seem to work really well (But the clutch pull on the "ESSEM" is a bit stiff). My advice: try them both, and see which one you like the best.
Oh! the "ESSIE" will handle the downshifting chores for you; if you like... BRP has done a really good job of setting them up. I let mine handle downshifting chores for all of the normal riding circumstances.
You still have full control of the system, and can boot it down a gear or two; anytime that you feel that you need a bit more kick! :D
 
I also prefer the SE6 and not the manual. But folks here who use the manual just love it, too.

As to left-over '15 or '16 models. Definitely the way to go. But if you want the F3T or F3Ltd, you'll have to look at '16 or '17.

Oh, and :welcome:
 
Since you are changing for less physical operation. As did I,it makes sense to go auto. Bought our 14 rt se6 two yrs ago. Just had carpel surgery. Back in saddle in 7 days. Manual would have been much longer. Also the electronic tranny is awesome!

I love R&R put another dime in the jukebox baby!
 
I would recommend a good long test ride. If you have any issues with upper back or neck pain a spyder may not be the machine. The spyder takes a lot more effort and arm strength to hustle through the corners. A conventional bike takes just a little counter steer and it keeps turning until you tell it to stop. On the spyder you have to herd it all the way around around the bend.
I have the RT with the electric shift and it's one of the best features of the machine. If it wasn't hard on my back it wouldn't be for sale. Good luck with your search.
 
I have been riding since 1961 and currently own a Hot Rod Valkyrie- BUT - I just turned 69 yrs. and have bad knees and weak hands.

Therefor- I have decided I need a 3 wheeler and the Spyder looks like the superior choice.

I think I have decided on an F3 and I am looking for a DEAL... I will have one by the end of January. After all these years on Bikes I know the best time to buy New or Used is in Dec.& Jan.- so I am on a Mission
------
My questions
1- I am undecided on which Transmission though I am leaning towards the 6 speed Manual since Auto.Transmissions are more complicated and therefor have more places you can have trouble.
*What is the 'Real World' reliability of both transmissions?

2- I know there are alot of 2015 & 2016 'Left Overs' around...
*Anyone have any tips on dealers anywhere in US offering Killer Deals on any of these Left Overs?
*What are the differences in the 2015 - 2016 -& 2017 F3??
*I am also interested in Used- anybody know of any for sale???

3- Is the B.E.S.T. Extended 3 yr. Warranty worth the price?
*Where can I find the best price for this.
-------------

Thanx in advance for any help you can give me.
sturgisrun
1999 Cream/Yellow Valkyrie->Milled Heads / Polished Ports / 18"Cherry bomb glass Packs in 4" Truck Stacks / Champion Fiberglass Hard Bags / InterstateFuel Tank / 125HP-115Ft.Lbs.
2010 Infiniti G37x Coupe->Everything done except a Blower / Dynoed / 399HP
2006 Freightliner Sprinter Van
:welcome:

I can help you on Question # 3 the B.E.S.T 3 year extended warranty is worth the price, you pay a $50.00 deductible for each claim for costs resulting from mechanical breakdown. Also, I have not put in a claim into my B.E.S.T warranty yet. I have a 2014RTS-SE6.

Check with "The Venders" on this site's homepage for a price on the " B.E.ST warranty. Deanna
 
:agree: The fact is: these are pretty complicated pieces of machinery, and nothing about them, is inexpensive... :shocked:
The extended warranties are a very welcome "insurance policy". nojoke
 
I would recommend a good long test ride. If you have any issues with upper back or neck pain a spyder may not be the machine. The spyder takes a lot more effort and arm strength to hustle through the corners. A conventional bike takes just a little counter steer and it keeps turning until you tell it to stop. On the spyder you have to herd it all the way around around the bend.
I have the RT with the electric shift and it's one of the best features of the machine. If it wasn't hard on my back it wouldn't be for sale. Good luck with your search.
The second sentence is right on the money. Exactly my experience.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Good advise given by all. I prefer the semi-automatic owned two with the semi, no problems. Bottom line it's your choice. Good luck. Dale
 
TBH....If you have "weak hands" as you state in your post then the SE option is for you. The SM clutch can be hard work
unless you fit the clutch assist pack. But as you are looking to save some money then the SE is probably the most cost effective
way to go.
 
B.E.S.T Extended warranty

Which ever spyder model you choose( manual transmission or SE) extend the B.E.S.T Warranty ( An example Only if it runs out in 2017 , extend to 2019). Good luck!

Deanna
 
Extended Warranty

You can deal on the pricing of the BEST extended warranty. My first I purchased from Bert's Mega Mall (SL site sponsor) my second from Pitbull Powersports (also a site sponsor). Reason...best price. When I purchased my F3 end of April...Pitbull now has another company they deal with...seems to be the same as the BEST but not limited to using a BRP dealership....so I "rolled the dice" and trusting Pitbull I went with this one. I would not be without the extended warranty. I used on my first (2010) Spyder. $50 vs $2000 yep that sure works. Have not had to use since on either my '14 or '16. It is insurance and that is why I purchased. Plus I am soooo not mechanical .. Enjoy the shopping and decision making as you join the Spyder world. You are at the very best sight for the best help from the VERY BEST PEOPLE. Welcome. :thumbup:
 
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