• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

stripped oil plug

Not sure if this matters on the quality of the dimple plug vs gold plug but the gold plugs both the short and the long did weight more than the dimple plug.

Also I got this reply back from gold plug today when I asked them the question about there plug in an aluminum case causing corrosion or any problems.

"No need to worry. Those 2 metals only fight in constant salt water contact or when electrical current is running through them.

You will not have any problems with our stainless plug in your aluminum case. We have sold hundreds of thousands of plugs over the last 16 years and have not had any problems."
 
Let's put this puppy to bed. You guys are starting to dig the Fly Specks out of the Sugarbowl again. It's

amazing how these things can morph in to the superfluous. Move on, take a breath go for a ride etc. etc.

etc. "when going through life keep your eye upon the Donut and not upon the Hole" !

Jack
 
Let's put this puppy to bed. You guys are starting to dig the Fly Specks out of the Sugarbowl again. It's

amazing how these things can morph in to the superfluous. Move on, take a breath go for a ride etc. etc.

etc. "when going through life keep your eye upon the Donut and not upon the Hole" !

Jack
Yeah, but if you look through the hole you can see the other side!! :roflblack:
 
STAINLESS - GOLD PLUG

I replaced my large plug with a GOLD plug ( in 1330 eng.) 11/21/15 , then checked it at oil change 6-18-16, it looked fine ..... I will be checking it again very soon. I'll pay close attention to what it looks like............ Mike :thumbup:
 
I just think the evidence is in the reports of all the aftermarket plugs being faulty are the dimple plugs with no reports of the gold plugs being faulty.
 
Mine did the same, I just welded a nut to the bottom of the striped plug. Now I just use a ratchet and socket :banghead:
 
One thing I discovered with my stock plugs (and yes I am going to admit here that even with 50 years of motorcycle experience behind me I can be lazy and stupid,both at the same time) when I had trouble removing a plug I had not inserted the torx all the way into the hole. Make sure the allen or torx is ALL the way in before you begin to pull. ALso if I set the ratchet to remove before I go upside down I don't make as many mistakes.
 
what he said

I would get a gold plug.
I had a dimple plug snap in 2 leaving half the plug in the clutch cover. It was a $1100 job to get replaced.
There is also another forum member who had the same plug snap in the same spot.
I did compare both dimple and gold plugs and the gold plug seems like a better quality product.
Just a note that the dealer installed the dimple plug during first oil change.
They claimed they did not over torqued the plug.
Also the member who had the same problem happen also claimed he didn't over torqued the plug.


I`m the other guy that had a DIMPLE PLUG plug snap off 1st time I put it in hardly got it snug and bingo broke in half .
it may be that some were defects don`t know for sure but I would go with the gold plugs
Leon
 
I keep a supply of OEM plugs on hand at the shop. If a bike comes in with one of these dimple plugs installed, I refuse to reinstall it. Far to much liability and a known failure point. We replace the factory plug at the owners expense and hand them the dimple plug. Have not had a bike come in with gold plugs installed yet but would give me pause.
 
Stripped oil drain plug

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
I have always changed oil on my autos and motorcycles and never stripped a plug. Always use a reliable torque wrench, always use new drain plug gasket washer, (cheap insurance) and never ever more than 12 to 14 ft lbs torque. Never had a leak. Stripped drain plugs are caused by mechanics??? who don't use torque wrenches and believe the tighter the better end up with next oil change and stripped plugs and your stuck with a serious and expensive problem. My 2016 F3-T manual drain plug oil sump cover torque specifications "21 ft. lbs." Magnetic drain plug clutch cover "15 ft. lbs" Both over kill and dangerous. Think 12 - 14 ft. lbs.
 
How do you strip the threads of a plug with only 18# or 21# of torque?

I :agree:, how does one "strip" the threads?? I changed mine over to Gold Plugs in fall due to the fact that the hex portion of the plug stripped out(oil plug, not trans. plug) while using new Torx bits and making sure it was seated properly. Real "peanut-buttery" in my opinion. I had to use an SAE oversize allen wrench and tap it into the hex portion to wedge it tight enough to hold and them un-thread it, luckily I got it out without too much verbiage and getting the neighbors too excited!!! Hopefully the G.P.'s will give me long service life, since I can use a socket on them. Mac:doorag:
 
I have always changed oil on my autos and motorcycles and never stripped a plug. Always use a reliable torque wrench, always use new drain plug gasket washer, (cheap insurance) and never ever more than 12 to 14 ft lbs torque. Never had a leak. Stripped drain plugs are caused by mechanics??? who don't use torque wrenches and believe the tighter the better end up with next oil change and stripped plugs and your stuck with a serious and expensive problem. My 2016 F3-T manual drain plug oil sump cover torque specifications "21 ft. lbs." Magnetic drain plug clutch cover "15 ft. lbs" Both over kill and dangerous. Think 12 - 14 ft. lbs.
I just completed the oil and filter change on both my 2014 RTs. The clutch drain plug on one took some effort to remove; obviously the dealer mechanic had applied too much torque at the previous oil change. But the hex wrench did not slip in the bolt socket. In fact it was a very tight fit. I don't understand how anyone can experience the problem described in this thread using the correct tools and torque on the OEM drain bolts.
 
I wouldn't trust dimple plugs

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
I had dimple plugs and the clutch cover plug snapped in two on the first use. Its to thin around magnet . That was a $900 oil change. I put the original ones back in , just tap them to make sure they are in all the way and you won't strip it.
Leon
 
Just as a matter of interest has anyone considered using one of these in place of a drain plug

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

If I'm looking at the correct illustration, I would not want to take the chance on knocking one of those off if I accidently drug the bottom of the frame/motor on something. I usually install skid plates (even on oil pans) of my off-road vehicles including dirt bikes, sand rails, etc. and have seen what happens when you bottom out or drag a pan on something hard. Mac:doorag:
 
If I'm looking at the correct illustration, I would not want to take the chance on knocking one of those off if I accidently drug the bottom of the frame/motor on something. I usually install skid plates (even on oil pans) of my off-road vehicles including dirt bikes, sand rails, etc. and have seen what happens when you bottom out or drag a pan on something hard. Mac:doorag:
I don't know if you noticed but the member is in England. Not too much off-roading there probably! Loose cobblestones maybe...:joke:
 
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