2013 Limited, Bad Battery?

[obiwan57]

Hello, this morning I went out to start my 2013, RT Limited, and when I turned the key to begin the start process, it made a noise I have never heard, and when the boot process was done, I pushed the start switch, and nothing, not a turn over at all I have had the Spyder on a battery tender when not riding it. I put it on my battery charger to see if it was down on charge, but I got a green light on the charger, and still no cranking of the starter.

The lights work, the parking brake releases, just a click when I push the starter. I'm thinking bad battery, I'm fairly sure the battery is stock; I bought the Spyder used in 2014, with 8,000 miles on it, so I think I need a new battery. I will pull the battery and have it tested to see if that's the case. In the meantime, has anyone had this situation? Please advise, and thanks!

 

[Ex-Rocket]

Did you make sure the kill switch is in the correct position?

 

[Bob Denman]

You're probably in need of a new battery. nojoke
Three or four years of service seems to be just about as far as they can go...

 

[obiwan57]

Did you make sure the kill switch is in the correct position?

Yes sir, I did check the kill switch, no joy, but thank you!

 

[obiwan57]

You're probably in need of a new battery. nojoke
Three or four years of service seems to be just about as far as they can go...

Yes sir, I think you're correct, and I'll be pulling the old battery today.

 

[billybovine]

Nothing in your description of symtoms points to a bad battery or even a dead battery. That does not mean the battery may not need changing. It's just not the cause of your problem. Since it appears you have already made up your mind that it may be the battery. Have it load tested. If it passes find the real problem and fix that.

 

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

I have a 2013 rts & had to change the battery last year, i think you are due. my mistake was not getting a lithium.

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer...

If you have checked all the starting proceedures including stepping on the brake in case it is in gear you may only be getting a surface charge not enough to crank the engine. Having it load tested would be the best but you may always have doubts now so may be time for a new one.

 

[Bob Denman]

Nothing in your description of symtoms points to a bad battery or even a dead battery. That does not mean the battery may not need changing. It's just not the cause of your problem. Since it appears you have already made up your mind that it may be the battery. Have it load tested. If it passes find the real problem and fix that.

as usual: Billy has looked beyond the obvious... :bowdown:
(It could just be some loose connections...)
Having it load tested, is the best way to determine if it is actually in need of replacement... :thumbup:

 

[Gray Ghost]

I would check the connections first, but if you have a meter you can do a quick load test at home.

Measure the voltage at the battery jumper connections at the top of the frunk. Then measure with the key on, the voltage should drop just a bit but you should be above 12 volts. Then while watching the meter have someone hold the throttle wide open and push the starter button. If your battery is bad it will drop below 10 volts. If there is no drop at all then you need to start looking elsewhere in the circuit.

 

[Motorcycledave]

3 years going on 4 years makes your battery long in the tooth, go get a new one...

Hello, this morning I went out to start my 2013, RT Limited, and when I turned the key to begin the start process, it made a noise I have never heard, and when the boot process was done, I pushed the start switch, and nothing, not a turn over at all I have had the Spyder on a battery tender when not riding it. I put it on my battery charger to see if it was down on charge, but I got a green light on the charger, and still no cranking of the starter.

The lights work, the parking brake releases, just a click when I push the starter. I'm thinking bad battery, I'm fairly sure the battery is stock; I bought the Spyder used in 2014, with 8,000 miles on it, so I think I need a new battery. I will pull the battery and have it tested to see if that's the case. In the meantime, has anyone had this situation? Please advise, and thanks!

 

[billybovine]

I would check the connections first, but if you have a meter you can do a quick load test at home.

Measure the voltage at the battery jumper connections at the top of the frunk. Then measure with the key on, the voltage should drop just a bit but you should be above 12 volts. Then while watching the meter have someone hold the throttle wide open and push the starter button. If your battery is bad it will drop below 10 volts. If there is no drop at all then you need to start looking elsewhere in the circuit.

How can you do a load test of the battery with the starter when the starter does not work?

 

[Gray Ghost]

A battery that is severely depleted or has a bad cell won't spin the starter. The battery may test out as having 12+ volts but when you hit the starter the voltage drops down to less than 10 volts.

On the other hand, if the battery is measuring above 12 volts and voltage does not drop when he hits the starter, then the battery is probably not the problem.