Drops of anti freeze.

[Netminder]

We went out on a nice long ride yesterday for my wife's birthday. Which was fantastic, as we have not got out as much as we would like this year, with ongoing house Renos. The Spyder ran like a charm as usual. This morning after giving it the post ride bath, as I was backing into the garage I noticed a couple of drops of fresh anti freeze on the floor. I did not have time to take all the necessary panels off to check the source of the drops, but took the small side one off and got a bright flashlight in there. What I discovered , although I could not quite see where the hose goes in the bottom of the rad, where I could see had some antifreeze on it.I could not see any coming from the engine side of things. I know I will not get a full picture until I pop some panels off, but just wanted to get some thoughts on this. I know there is many posts on this which I will be looking at tonight, as will as checking the service manual, but just wanted to get some advanced thoughts from anyone who may have had a similar situation. Anti freeze is still at a good level, so hoping it is the factory clamps on the bottom hose at the rad. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Will have to wait for a raining day for a thorough inpection, when time permit.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ANTI-FREEZE

I hope you are right about the clamp ....However it may look that way, but there have been more than a few Reservoir Tank failures in that area ................best of luck .......Mike :chat:

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing....

Did not see the model you have, but they have one...one worm drive hose clamp that has no been known to need some tightening. Only other sources would be the radiator caps not on to the second detent or the water pump seals. Start with the clamp....:thumbup:

 

[Netminder]

Thanks guys. Checked the cap, and tank as well as I could, will have to see when more panels are removed.:thumbup:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Have some experience with mystery anti-freeze, and I guess this is a good time to get the correct information out there.

By design, there are THREE worm gear clamps on the V-twin, not just one. Been there from the beginning. Unless you pull the air box for some reason like installing JT's air filter you'll never see the other two. But they are there and do need tightening after a few years. They were the source of my mystery leakage. See picture.



Also, if you pull the facia off from around the headlights - 6 screws - it makes inspecting the tank and cap much easier.

Search the forum and you'll find plenty of posts about the leak indicator hole in the water pump casing. Also in the service manual.



I guess you'll have to click on the pics to get a bigger version. Don't know why they're not showing full size.

Good luck.

 

[Netminder]

Thanks for the pics, can the two worm clamps be tighten without removing the box? Thanks again.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Thanks for the pics, can the two worm clamps be tighten without removing the box? Thanks again.

I really don't know from my own experience, but back in the day, my old mechanic said it could be done if you had small enough hands. But he usually tightened them when he loosened everything up to do the valve checks and front plugs. Everything under there is just a b***h to get to, which is another advantage of JTs air filter. But now that you know where they are, maybe you can feel around up there and get to them.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just one last thing - most of the time, the problem ends up being simply that the tank cap was not completely tuned all the way on. Just like any other radiator cap, as you turn it, there's a spot where it get tighter. But you need to go past that spot until it stops turning. Again, if you pull the facia off from around the headlights, you can get a much better grip on the thing and see that it is properly installed.

 

[LJspydee]

I previously had a 2012 RTS that would drip a few drops of antifreeze. Turned out to be water pump seals. It was fixed under warranty, but was in the shop for three weeks waiting for parts. Hopefully yours is a minor fix.

 

[Netminder]

Thanks for all the replies. Cap was one of the first things checked. Unfortunately not under warranty anymore, so hoping it is not the seals. What I see more on the rad side then motor. Will be a bit before I get it apart, but while update this once I do. I do most of my on maintenance, so as long as it is not the seals, I will be happy. Thanks again.

 

[billybovine]

I previously had a 2012 RTS that would drip a few drops of antifreeze. Turned out to be water pump seals. It was fixed under warranty, but was in the shop for three weeks waiting for parts. Hopefully yours is a minor fix.

I had oil coming out the water pump leak indicator hole instead of antifreeze. It took 2 days to fix. One day of that was waiting for the parts.

 

[ssmcclub]

Had the same leak on my 2014 rss just make tight on that clamp all good now has 7,000 on it no leak

 

[R FUN]

Had same problem on my 2012 RT LImited . It also was the worm hose clamp on right side, the easy one to get at. No more problem.
Roger

 

[SilverFox1]

Had the same problem on my 2011 RTLtd. Here's what I was told, and it made sense to me. When hot, everything expands and tightens up, true. No leaks. When cooling down, leaks can occur because everything contracts. Therefore the pressure in the system will push fluid out in the slightest little loose connections. Check tightness of all clamps and you should be good. Five years gone by and never leaked again. Good luck.

SilverFox

 

[Netminder]

Agree with the above, took the panels off and tighten clamps and all seems well. Thanks all.