f3s down and out at 12,500 miles (for second time)

[Chupaca]

As I see it...

Whatever caused the first problem was not adressed properly. Just the fact it happened should have led to a full checking of the shaft berings wheel berings etc. BRP should have been more involved or at least interested..:dontknow: regardless it would be safe to say the first one lead to the second issue. Don't know if it works as before but we would replace the engine and send it back to the factory R&D. Hope they do the right thing and get you out there soon....

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks Bob! And some say you serve no purpose! Well, I think you do a great service! Just not quite sure what that is! :roflblack: (Sorry, I'm being mean today)

I the found the PERFECT niche, to justify my existence: I can always serve as a BAD example! :roflblack: :thumbup:

 

[spydaman60]

By the end of next week I will have a new elka shock under the rear of my RS-S. I cannot sit by and watch you suffer. You are more than welcome to come visit and ride it if you would like. I work this week but have all of the following week off and would be glad to be your private tour guide. After all, a really nice gentleman did sell me the floorboards at a discount...........

Just sayin'...........

thanks for the offer bro! that is very generous!! I might have to get a new unit by then!!nojoke

 

[spydaman60]

steve from brp cares, where are you???

well, here goes my rant. heard from the dealer today and they have been in touch with brp since Friday morning. brp calls today and tells them to send pictures of the spline and the shaft. they determined that the shaft wasn't damaged enough (from the pictures, mind you) that it needs any additional attention or replacement. dealer was instructed to replace pulley and spline and parts would be sent when available. parts are currently on back order!!!! now that tells me one or two things. this must be happening to a lot of f3's, or maybe, just maybe, they pulled the pulleys and splines off the shelf and are trying to find a fix. now, I've got a problem with both possible reasons. here I am, stuck with no ride, and now i'm waiting for a new pulley and spline when there could possibly be way more damage than visually what is seen, especially when this has happened twice. i'm not a happy camper and I will never feel comfortable taking long trips with this machine again. it has brought me home from two vacations cut short due to this problem. makes me wonder what would have happened if i'd been returning from spyderfest this year, and this had happened. makes me wonder if it might happen when i'm leading a group of 50 spyders during spyderquest on a group ride. need to hear something good from brp!! I've got a whole summer of riding planned, and I need answers!nojoke

 

[bscrive]

Hi Chuck,

This thread has made me go outside and check Deb's F3. Everything looks fine.

Deb's bike does have the high whine sound when we are traveling. Will a belt tensioner help or does it need to go into the shop?

Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the front pulley bolt?

 

[spydaman60]

Hi Chuck,

This thread has made me go outside and check Deb's F3. Everything looks fine.

Deb's bike does have the high whine sound when we are traveling. Will a belt tensioner help or does it need to go into the shop?

Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the front pulley bolt?

I suggest everyone check their f3's. i'd even have the dealer do it so it has been documented.:thumbup:

 

[DaTru01]

Is there anyway anyone can show/tell us noobs how and what to check? This thread has me concerned, since this is my first Spyder.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[spydaman60]

Is there anyway anyone can show/tell us noobs how and what to check? This thread has me concerned, since this is my first Spyder.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

if my spyder wasn't in the shop, i'd be happy to. maybe some other kind soul would be able to show you a picture of theirs!!!!nojokeread comment number 14 and #24.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: And they haven't been able to give you an idea as to when you'll get it back? :shocked:
Unbelievable! :gaah:
Did anyone tell them, that these bikes don't break themselves during the off-season? They're costing you some serious riding-time! :banghead:

 

[spydaman60]

:shocked: And they haven't been able to give you an idea as to when you'll get it back? :shocked:
Unbelievable! :gaah:
Did anyone tell them, that these bikes don't break themselves during the off-season? They're costing you some serious riding-time! :banghead:

did you read my post 24? they told Jason they were due off backorder first week in july, but no guarantee! then it takes minimum 3 days for shipping, customs etc. i'm sure rusty's will handle it immediately for me. they are not the week link. they are the ray of hope. we all know who the week link is here.nojoke

 

[Bob Denman]

I saw it, and there was no mention of the first week in July...
At least there is a "Light at the end of the Tunnel." Here's to hoping, that it doesn't turn out to be an oncoming train! :cheers:

 

[jcthorne]

Hi Chuck,

This thread has made me go outside and check Deb's F3. Everything looks fine.

Deb's bike does have the high whine sound when we are traveling. Will a belt tensioner help or does it need to go into the shop?

Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the front pulley bolt?

Yes, check the drive pulley bolt but do NOT re torque it of its not loose. The bolt has lock tight on it to keep it from vibrating loose. If you re-torque the bolt after the lock tight has set up, you just broke the bond and it can now vibrate loose.

Recommendation is to release the parking brake and put a wrench on the bolt and verify moving it rocks the bike forward and back with NO play in the bolt or pulley. If its not loose, do not torque it.

If it is loose, you need to remove it, clean off the old lock tight and reapply new blue lock tite and then reinstall and torque.

 

[bscrive]

Yes, check the drive pulley bolt but do NOT re torque it of its not loose. The bolt has lock tight on it to keep it from vibrating loose. If you re-torque the bolt after the lock tight has set up, you just broke the bond and it can now vibrate loose.

Recommendation is to release the parking brake and put a wrench on the bolt and verify moving it rocks the bike forward and back with NO play in the bolt or pulley. If its not loose, do not torque it.

If it is loose, you need to remove it, clean off the old lock tight and reapply new blue lock tite and then reinstall and torque.

Thanks for the info. I did as you suggested and the bolt is still tight.

 

[DaTru01]

Is there anyway anyone can show/tell us noobs how and what to check? This thread has me concerned, since this is my first Spyder.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Can anyone assist with information on how to check this? Thanks in advance!