2012 RT-S Wiring for Non-BRP Trailer

[Tango1]

Have a 2012 RT-S and a non-BRP trailer. RTS not wired for trailer.

1. Get conflicting info whether I need a control module installed in the RTS or not, or just run wires from tail light would do? Appreciate any clarity on this subject that will ensure that I won't expose the RTS to electrical damage and accomplish my objective it to have power to trailer that runs LED turning signals, brake, and running lights.

2. Got advise that it a BRP trailer is not used, the power/transmission features won't work on a non-BRP trailer? What say?

3. Do you need a further wiring harness btwn the control module and trailer? What say?

Thanks, Tango1

 

[jtoro1]

Have a 2012 RT-S and a non-BRP trailer. RTS not wired for trailer.

1. Get conflicting info whether I need a control module installed in the RTS or not, or just run wires from tail light would do? Appreciate any clarity on this subject that will ensure that I won't expose the RTS to electrical damage and accomplish my objective it to have power to trailer that runs LED turning signals, brake, and running lights.

2. Got advise that it a BRP trailer is not used, the power/transmission features won't work on a non-BRP trailer? What say?

3. Do you need a further wiring harness btwn the control module and trailer? What say?

Thanks, Tango1

Try show-chrome plug n go trailer harness #41-162

 

[billybovine]

There is no such thing as a control module. Not how I define it anyway. You likely mean an isolator module or a converter module or a combination isolator/converter module. The isolator module separates the electrical load of the trailer from the tail, stop and turn circuits of the Spyder. So if you have a short in the trailer. The lights on the Spyder will not be affected. The Show Chrome harness mentioned above has the isolator module built in. Now if your trailer is a 5 wire system that means it has amber turn signal lights. Just put the correct matching plug for your on the Show Chrome harness and you're done. Now if your trailer is a 4 wire system. That means the turn signals are combined with the stop lights. Then let's say you had the Show Chrome harness then you would have to add a converter module to it. The BRP harness has a isolator/converter module so it's output is 4 wire already.

There is no communication between the trailer or trailer wiring to the Spyder transmission, engine or stability system. The Spyder has no idea you do or do not have a trailer connected to it. If it makes you feel better to use trailer mode then choose it from the menu.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Have a 2012 RT-S and a non-BRP trailer. RTS not wired for trailer.

1. Get conflicting info whether I need a control module installed in the RTS or not, or just run wires from tail light would do? Appreciate any clarity on this subject that will ensure that I won't expose the RTS to electrical damage and accomplish my objective it to have power to trailer that runs LED turning signals, brake, and running lights.

2. Got advise that it a BRP trailer is not used, the power/transmission features won't work on a non-BRP trailer? What say?

3. Do you need a further wiring harness btwn the control module and trailer? What say?

Thanks, Tango1

You really should have an isolator in the wiring. If the trailer has all LED lights the need isn't as great as it was when all bulbs were incandescent since the loads are much smaller. However, the turn signal circuits come directly from the cluster with no fuse protection between the cluster and turn signal lights. If you connect the trailer turn signals directly, and they short out, you MAY severely damage the cluster. I have no way of knowing and for sure don't want to find out! The cluster is a hundreds of dollars part, and if your trailer wiring takes it out it won't be covered by warranty.

In the bike wiring under the left rear access panel is a connector in the wiring that feeds all of the rear lights. BRP has a Y harness that plugs right in there. The Y harness can be connected to an isolator to feed a pigtail for the trailer. It also has a +12v fused wire to supply the power to operate all the trailer lights. For more info look at what I put together a couple of years ago for my 2013 RT. I moved it to my 2014 RTS. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-other-lights-Part-1&highlight=trailer+wiring

The ShowChrome harness will work. The biggest differences between it and the BRP Y harness is it connects directly to the tail light wires and you have to run a separate +12v line from somewhere. The BRP Y harness is a simpler installation IMO. As Billybovine says, the full BRP harness includes the isolator but the current one is 4 wire output. If your trailer is 5 wire, i.e., separate amber turn signals, you can add a five wire isolator to the BRP Y harness, build your own pigtail to the trailer socket, and undoubtedly do it cheaper.

 

[Tango1]

Try show-chrome plug n go trailer harness #41-162

Thanks for your reply. Will check out that harness.

 

[Tango1]

There is no such thing as a control module. Not how I define it anyway. You likely mean an isolator module or a converter module or a combination isolator/converter module. The isolator module separates the electrical load of the trailer from the tail, stop and turn circuits of the Spyder. So if you have a short in the trailer. The lights on the Spyder will not be affected. The Show Chrome harness mentioned above has the isolator module built in. Now if your trailer is a 5 wire system that means it has amber turn signal lights. Just put the correct matching plug for your on the Show Chrome harness and you're done. Now if your trailer is a 4 wire system. That means the turn signals are combined with the stop lights. Then let's say you had the Show Chrome harness then you would have to add a converter module to it. The BRP harness has a isolator/converter module so it's output is 4 wire already.

There is no communication between the trailer or trailer wiring to the Spyder transmission, engine or stability system. The Spyder has no idea you do or do not have a trailer connected to it. If it makes you feel better to use trailer mode then choose it from the menu.

Thanks for your email.

You've cleared up a lot for me in your email. Believe this will get me going in the right direction.

I stand corrected on the isolator module, as I had the name wrong. Yes, the Show Chrome harness seems to be my solution. I have a 5 wire/pin, round female on the trailer. Can't seem to find a matching male 5 pin for the RTS. Are they now a thing of the past? If so, seems like I could switch to a 6 pin round for both male and female, which is readily available, and just use 5 of the 6 pins. I'll just have to make sure I match the 5 wires needed are correctly aligned in each connector. Does this make sense to you?

Regarding the "trailer mode" on the bike. Dealer said by turning on the "trailer mode" the bike will shift differently, in anticipation of a load. "Talking to the trailer", was again wrong language. Got the same info about bike shifting differently from my manual. However, there was nothing in the manual that said the shifting would only be notice on a BRP trailer (dealer service mgr comments, which seemed far fetched). Put bike in "trailer mode" without trailer and it started shifting differently, especially noticed the down shifting more rapidly as I slowed down. Your further comments welcomed.

Thanks, Tango1

 

[Tango1]

You really should have an isolator in the wiring. If the trailer has all LED lights the need isn't as great as it was when all bulbs were incandescent since the loads are much smaller. However, the turn signal circuits come directly from the cluster with no fuse protection between the cluster and turn signal lights. If you connect the trailer turn signals directly, and they short out, you MAY severely damage the cluster. I have no way of knowing and for sure don't want to find out! The cluster is a hundreds of dollars part, and if your trailer wiring takes it out it won't be covered by warranty.

In the bike wiring under the left rear access panel is a connector in the wiring that feeds all of the rear lights. BRP has a Y harness that plugs right in there. The Y harness can be connected to an isolator to feed a pigtail for the trailer. It also has a +12v fused wire to supply the power to operate all the trailer lights. For more info look at what I put together a couple of years ago for my 2013 RT. I moved it to my 2014 RTS. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-other-lights-Part-1&highlight=trailer+wiring

The ShowChrome harness will work. The biggest differences between it and the BRP Y harness is it connects directly to the tail light wires and you have to run a separate +12v line from somewhere. The BRP Y harness is a simpler installation IMO. As Billybovine says, the full BRP harness includes the isolator but the current one is 4 wire output. If your trailer is 5 wire, i.e., separate amber turn signals, you can add a five wire isolator to the BRP Y harness, build your own pigtail to the trailer socket, and undoubtedly do it cheaper.

Thanks for your email. The trailer is running LED lights, but I'd rather be safe then sorry. So, I'm going to install the isolator in the wiring. No need to put myself in a position that I'll have to pay a small fortune to fix a damaged cluster when I can protect the cluster from potential damage.

Will look at your prior thread regarding +12v fused wire to supply power. Without looking at your thread, seems to me that I can just attach it to the battery directly. I like the simplicity of the BRP Y harness. I'll do some research on both the Show Chrome and BRP Y, confirm the simplicity factor of each, and price, and proceed from here.

Look forward to any other input from you about my reply or other.

Thanks, Tango1

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have a 5 wire/pin, round female on the trailer. Can't seem to find a matching male 5 pin for the RTS. Are they now a thing of the past? If so, seems like I could switch to a 6 pin round for both male and female, which is readily available, and just use 5 of the 6 pins. I'll just have to make sure I match the 5 wires needed are correctly aligned in each connector. Does this make sense to you?

Five wire round sockets are available. You can order one from etrailer.com. They also have isolators. Be aware a 6 wire socket and plug is somewhat larger than a 5 wire. If your hitch has a socket mounting plate on it I'm sure a 5 wire socket will fit, but you'll have to enlarge the hole for a 6 wire socket.

An alternative that is readily available is a 5 wire flat connector. You can buy it as a vehicle/trailer set from most any auto parts store, or etrailer.com. That's what I used on my Goldwing.

 

[Tango1]

Five wire round sockets are available. You can order one from etrailer.com. They also have isolators. Be aware a 6 wire socket and plug is somewhat larger than a 5 wire. If your hitch has a socket mounting plate on it I'm sure a 5 wire socket will fit, but you'll have to enlarge the hole for a 6 wire socket. An alternative that is readily available is a 5 wire flat connector. You can buy it as a vehicle/trailer set from most any auto parts store, or etrailer.com. That's what I used on my Goldwing.

Thanks for your email and recommendations.

I've ordered a non-oem hitch from one of the regular can-am parts suppliers, but from pics and written description I can't tell if it has a mounting bracket or not. Will see when it arrives.

Good suggestion on ordering round 5 from etrailer.com and alternative of 5 flat connector. Will stick with 5 round or flat, in any case.

Thanks, Tango1