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Hand Brake

PistonBlown

Active member
Well I finally finished sorting the hand brake on my Spyder. I used the same approach detailed in the old thread on this site combining a Honda XS650 brake lever and master cylinder with the Cleves 375-300 slave cylinder.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ndbrake-Alternative-And-Alternative-to-Cables

I'm really pleased with the result as I was expecting the pull to be a bit heavy but it's no different a normal motorbike brake. It piggy backs onto the existing system so the foot brake still works the same. If you use the handbrake then the foot pedal moves down but if you use the foot pedal the handbrake doesn't move (which is what you want).

The original thread has some great photo's in it but here's a few from mine that help show the setup:

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I tried to make sure that the direction of travel for the push rod was a straight as possible.

I couldn't find a clevis large enough so this had to be fabricated.

It looks a bit as if BRP may have planned to do something like this themselves at some point because there were two points perfect for mounting the bracket for the slave cylinder.

You'll notice the bracket has been strengthened with some triangular bracing, if that wasn't there then the bracket would definitely bend when the brakes were applied

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I had to add a spacer to the hand lever to push it out far enough from the bars to not clash with the throttle body (used the same approach as the original thread).

You'll notice how I've also had to space the throttle body out a bit so that adjuster bolt on the lever doesn't clash. I'm going to replace that bolt with a grub nut which will mean that can go back to it's original position.

One issue I did find was that the brake lever could potentially hit the light flasher button on that side - I ended up twisting the throttle body slightly to stop that being a problem.

The original thread showed people using a banjo for the brake pipe but I found a straight coupling worked fine.

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I still need to make a little cover for that bleed nipple

I would have preferred a 90 degree banjo at this end but that's the only fitting I could get. The brake hose was custom made, without the fittings it was 1.5 meters long. You definitely wouldn't want it any shorter with a fitting like this (I originally did the measurements based on a 90 degree banjo at this end).

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You have done a great job on this project...Mounting the master cylinder on the RT handlebars is a lot different than your RS/GS...Anyone have the mounting of the master cylinder on an RT figured out????

THANK YOU Blown Piston for all the great info and the pictures...larryd
 
Well done...

Great job and thanks for the pictures and explanations. :2thumbs::bowdown: I know the ICSI does not seem to have the stopping capability the foot system does. How does your set up work in that respect. ? I know as a alternative for minor braking this works well but for full emergency ICSI is a bit weak....:dontknow:
 
YOUR HAND BRAKE

DIY'ers Rock.....my compliments to you on your efforts and your willingness to share, there are many physically challenged folks out there who aren't rich and can benefit from your efforts......you should send this over to the ENABLED riders forum .........Thanks again for you efforts.........and as Chewey asked HOW WELL DOES IT WORK ?????.................Mike :thumbup:
 
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Great job and thanks for the pictures and explanations. :2thumbs::bowdown: I know the ICSI does not seem to have the stopping capability the foot system does. How does your set up work in that respect. ? I know as a alternative for minor braking this works well but for full emergency ICSI is a bit weak....:dontknow:
:hun:

:wrong:I have the ICSI Hand Brake on both my Spyders , a 13RTL and a 15 RTL and have no problem activating the ABS system on either one. So you are not stop any quicker than that in an emergency INMHO. If any system is not setup right you're not going to reach the full potential.:D
 
Good to know, I can only go on what I have seen mentioned here in the past. Don't have one have gotten used to the single brake...

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
 
Great job and thanks for the pictures and explanations. :2thumbs::bowdown: I know the ICSI does not seem to have the stopping capability the foot system does. How does your set up work in that respect. ? I know as a alternative for minor braking this works well but for full emergency ICSI is a bit weak....:dontknow:

I've only done a short test drive so far so it's hard to judge but it appeared to be just as effective as the foot brake. When it's standing I wasn't able to squeeze the handbrake all the way back to the bar but it was only a 6-7 mm gap so possibly in a panic it would go all the way back. Once I've had a proper test ride I'll give some better feedback.

I would have gone with the ICSI system but it's so expensive here in NZ, it's not just the item itself but the shipping and import taxes on top.

I've done this as I've never really got on with the foot brake and don't feel it gives me enough control. However I've also got two Spyder rider mates who are having issues with the foot brake for medical reasons so this is also a test bed for them to see if this would help. If so we'll do the same mod to their Spyders.
 
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I have the same setup as PistonBlown.
Same Honda master cylinder & same slave cylinder.
Works just fine.
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:congrats: on the successful completion of this noteworthy project! :clap: :2thumbs: :firstplace:

:D When will we see the kits go on sale? :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
Nice job! Always had reservations about the ISCI kit because it wasn't hydraulic. My sweetie lacks the lower leg strength to disengage the parking brake while holding the bike with the foot brake, a problem on inclines. This might be a good solution.
 
Nice job! Always had reservations about the ISCI kit because it wasn't hydraulic. My sweetie lacks the lower leg strength to disengage the parking brake while holding the bike with the foot brake, a problem on inclines. This might be a good solution.

:hun: Just to set the record straight the ISCI system is a hydraulic system and Yes it's expensive. But well engineered and very high quality.

I like the DIY project. A job well done. A few years ago I would have tackled a project like that, being a machinist.
 
Another choice for the Parking Brake

Nice job! Always had reservations about the ISCI kit because it wasn't hydraulic. My sweetie lacks the lower leg strength to disengage the parking brake while holding the bike with the foot brake, a problem on inclines. This might be a good solution.

I have the same problem with the foot on the PB so I converted it to a hand operated parking brake using a steel plate, some all-thread covered by a plastic tube, and an after market shift knob plus a little black paint. I'm totally happy with how it works.

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I have the same problem with the foot on the PB so I converted it to a hand operated parking brake using a steel plate, some all-thread covered by a plastic tube, and an after market shift knob plus a little black paint. I'm totally happy with how it works.

That reminds me of a brake/accelerator hand control I had in a car when I wasn't able to move my right leg properly after a motorcycle accident. I used to pull it towards me to accelerate and away to brake.
 
Hello from Finland.

I'm going to do a handbrake for myself to my RT 2013, I have already acquired all the parts,Honda XS650 brake lever and master cylinder and the slave cylinder Cleves 375-300.
I have read all the stuff of DIY handbrake and get good ideas,I'm not going to change anything, the solutions seem good.

One thing what I am thinking.
Has anyone done the fork elongated hole so that when use foot brake so the hand brake cylinder do not move?

Is the master cylinder easy to install to the RT handlebar?

My Spyder is just now at workshop,here in Finland I got my bike this heat recall modification.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BFwCzfMWZ8d3dKTC16TnVrNm8/view

Markku
 
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Hello

In the morning when I woke up I noticed that i was asked the thing just the opposite what I meant, now the question is harvested.
 
Hello from Finland.

I'm going to do a handbrake for myself to my RT 2013, I have already acquired all the parts,Honda XS650 brake lever and master cylinder and the slave cylinder Cleves 375-300.
I have read all the stuff of DIY handbrake and get good ideas,I'm not going to change anything, the solutions seem good.

One thing what I am thinking.
Has anyone done the fork elongated hole so that when use foot brake so the hand brake cylinder do not move?

Is the master cylinder easy to install to the RT handlebar?

My Spyder is just now at workshop,here in Finland I got my bike this heat recall modification.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BFwCzfMWZ8d3dKTC16TnVrNm8/view

Markku

Hei Markku,

The foot brake doesn't move the hand brake so there is no need to have an elongated hole in the fork.

Kiitos,

Jos
 
Hello

The :spyder2: is now driven home to my garage from workshop and I'm starting to the handbrake project,all the parts I have purchased already earlier.I removed the floorboard where the foot brake linkage is installed.I could not find any photos which would be similar floorboard and there installed the slave cylinder.
Is someone made itself a corresponding installation?Today I already a little planned the installation of the cylinder,and tomorrow I will continue it, we'll see work out a good means to mount the cylinder.

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regards Markku from Finland with his bad english language but try to understand
 
Hello

The story continues, today I built the slave cylinder attachment and I started the master cylinder mounting designing.Today I also got the brake hose fittings, those parts are used in racing cars, from the parts you can build the hose what you need.Tomorrow I will probably get the floorboard complex and the master cylinder mounted.



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