Riding FAQ

[daddydarko]

As I learn more and more about V-twins and MCs in general, I'm finding that there's a lot of contradicting theories out there. Please help me answer some of these and feel free to add your own.

Engine Braking - Saves the brakes or breaks the transmission?
High RPMs - Do they significantly impact MPGs?
Oil Change - 3,000 miles regardless of how much highway driving?
Tire PSI - Should you vary based on road conditions?

 

[docdoru]

As I learn more and more about V-twins and MCs in general, I'm finding that there's a lot of contradicting theories out there. Please help me answer some of these and feel free to add your own.

Engine Braking - Saves the brakes or breaks the transmission?
High RPMs - Do they significantly impact MPGs?
Oil Change - 3,000 miles regardless of how much highway driving?
Tire PSI - Should you vary based on road conditions?

IMO :doorag::
1. Definitely used it, but is lowering the back tire life.
2. Over 7,500 RPM: big impact on the MPG.
3. 3,000 miles, regardless.
4. 20 front, 25 back.

 

[Firefly]

I use engine braking when riding hard in the turns - the rest of the time I've been just using the brakes. Brakes are pretty cheap to replace .

 

[Some Guy]

I use engine braking when riding hard in the turns - the rest of the time I've been just using the brakes. Brakes are pretty cheap to replace .

:agree:

 

[NancysToy]

As many answers as there are belly-buttons. Why not just ask about octane or the best oil? OK, you asked for it, here are some more relatively usless contributions.

1. Since the Spyder manual discusses engine braking, I would expect the trans is designed to take it. I have done it all my driving and riding life, and I never busted a transmission yet. Burnouts, on the other hand, may not be so good...

2. RPM will impact mpg, but not necessarily in a linear fashion. Either too low or too high can ruin mileage. Biggest offender is actually the speed with whichh you apply the throttle and your riding (driving) smoothness, according to the old Shell mileage run experts.

3. Oil life is significantly better with highway miles as opposed to short runs or stop-and-go. Hard to put a number on it. The oil life also varies with the oil used and the climate conditions. Under warranty, I would stick with the recommended mileage between changes. After that, I think you could get significantly more with full synthetic oil and a lot of highway miles. They put all these electronic gizmos on the Spyder, but there is no oil life indicator, like in many modern cars. Guess the computer is too busy monitoring bulb loads.

4. I think the tire pressure is more static, and depends the most on the tire construction, and vehicle load conditions. Most touring motorcycles carry at least two recommended tire pressures, one with passenger or load, and one without. They are smaller than Spyder or auto tires, so will be affected more, but I would think the same principles apply.
-Scotty

 

[bjt]

... but there is no oil life indicator, like in many modern cars. Guess the computer is too busy monitoring bulb loads.
-Scotty

 

[Firefly]

3. Oil life is significantly better with highway miles as opposed to short runs or stop-and-go. Hard to put a number on it. The oil life also varies with the oil used and the climate conditions. Under warranty, I would stick with the recommended mileage between changes. After that, I think you could get significantly more with full synthetic oil and a lot of highway miles. They put all these electronic gizmos on the Spyder, but there is no oil life indicator, like in many modern cars. Guess the computer is too busy monitoring bulb loads. -Scotty

I would think after the warranty is up you would want to be MORE careful about following their advice on oil changes since your safety net is gone.

They do have an oil-life indicator on the Spyder---- mine currently reads 8,800 miles -

 

[Dudley]

Well, as Scotty said, here is another belly button:
1. Engine Braking: When slowing down, I generally use the transmission to stay in tune with the engine, ie., keeping the transmission and the engine in a good power band in case things change and I have to speed up quickly to avoid an accident. In over 40 years I have used the transmission less than a dozen times to brake the motorcycle. With this method I use the brakes using short applications until a steady pressure is needed.
2. High RPMs vs. Gas Mileage: I have found that driving consistantly over 70 mph uses a little more fuel. But here again there are many other factors: wind, hills, tire pressures, throttle habits, etc. We have 10,600 miles on our Spyder and except for a couple of times when the winds have really been hard, the Spyder has never gone under 30 MPG, and usually stays close to 33 MPG.
3. Oil Change: OHOH! The vast majority of Spyder owners (if not all but me) will change the oil at 3000 miles, regardless. I believe that the oil should be changed by engine runtime, not mileage. If someone puts on 3000 miles and averages 25 MPH, the oil goes through a lot rougher time than if someone puts 3000 miles and averages 45 MPH. With the engine runtime feature, the oil could be changed much more effectively than with total miles. With my driving habits (most all highway miles), I average 46 MPH, so I am changing the oil no less than 5000 miles. If I have a warranty issue, I will cross that bridge when I get there. If not, then all is well. This has nothing to do with money saved, etc. I have always changed the oil in any motorcycle I have ever owned at 5000 miles, so I am keeping the same habit.
4. Tire Pressure: I have found that 20 pounds front and 28 pounds rear works better for us. We are always riding together, so I don't vary pressure at any time. Here is an issue that will probably end up being personal preference.

All in all, keep exploring your Spyder and enjoy it. For us, it seems to ride better everytime we get on it.

 

[jedd]

. Burnouts, on the other hand, may not be so good...
Oh crap you take all the fun out of it, next time i lite 'er up I'll picture Scotty :lecturef_smilie:. :roflblack::roflblack:

 

[NancysToy]

3. Oil Change: ...With the engine runtime feature, the oil could be changed much more effectively than with total miles.....

Not a bad idea! With the hour meter, you probably do get a better indicator, and one that is reflective of your driving habits. Now we can argue over what number of hours to put on between changes. :roflblack:
-Scotty

 

[Dudley]

Not a bad idea! With the hour meter, you probably do get a better indicator, and one that is reflective of your driving habits. Now we can argue over what number of hours to put on between changes. :roflblack:
-Scotty

Never a solution. Who ever said life was boring????

 

[Dudley]

Not a bad idea! With the hour meter, you probably do get a better indicator, and one that is reflective of your driving habits. Now we can argue over what number of hours to put on between changes. :roflblack:
-Scotty

I think 100 hours would be right in the middle...30 mph av.= 3000 miles;
45 mph av.= 4500 miles. Anything in between would be in the ball park.

 

[jnt]

On engine braking, s-m-o-o-t-h is the secret - EASE the clutch, blip the throttle, etc.

+1 as above on the rest.

 

[Firefly]

Not a bad idea! With the hour meter, you probably do get a better indicator, and one that is reflective of your driving habits. Now we can argue over what number of hours to put on between changes. :roflblack:
-Scotty

While equipment like tractors and whatnot use hours for that reason, it's not like you're running the spyder a ton without actually riding it. If you actually equate hours to miles and go with the hours number, you would end up changing sooner than 3,000. I really don't see any good reason not to follow the 3,000 mile rule - sure as heck isn't going to hurt anything. I'm sure many go 500 miles on either side of the 3,000 mark - but 5,000 or more and you're just asking for trouble IMO.

I may be doing a really low-mileage oil change if I can't get this Royal Purple to stop smelling! Been 300 mile now and she still smells on startup and hard throttles.

 

[NancysToy]

I may be doing a really low-mileage oil change if I can't get this Royal Purple to stop smelling! Been 300 mile now and she still smells on startup and hard throttles.

Did you check for oil in the airbox that could be leaking out and getting on the exhaust?
-Scotty

 

[Firefly]

Did you check for oil in the airbox that could be leaking out and getting on the exhaust?
-Scotty

No airbox to check - mine vents right into the throttle bodies.

 

[Dudley]

Still can't understand why the RP smells in your Spyder. Seems like yours is the only one, or else you are the only one posting it. I would give it at least 2000 miles. I even checked mine in the oil pan when I changed it Wednesday...no unusual smell. This puzzles me about yours. How long does the smell last on startup and hard throttles? I think I have read that you have already checked for any leaks, etc. Not being mechanically knowledgeable I would still suspect a small oil escape that quickly burns off until next start or throttle. Have you tried removing the plastics before you start the engine and see if you can detect about where the smell is coming from? I am just shooting in the dark. May be something overlooked.