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Stuck in high idle won't go into gear

jtpollock

New member
O.K...:dontknow: A few weeks back my RS-S SE5 started with a high idle and will not idle down it is also very hard to get it to shift into 1st. Once I get it into gear all is good but if I shut it off I am back to square one. Any ideas??:helpsmilie:jtpollock.
 
Why don't you check your vacuum hoses the easiest thing you could do they become cracked and will affect your throttle body
 
Agree..!!

:agree: start there. Left side center panel and you will see them...

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look good but
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throttle linkage is also right there just in case there is any obstruction or needs some lube...:thumbup:
 

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:agree: start there. Left side center panel and you will see them...

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look good but
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throttle linkage is also right there just in case there is any obstruction or needs some lube...:thumbup:


Thanks to both of you this will give me a place to start. :bowdown: I will check back later. :banghead: this has not been a good year for my RS jtpollock.
 
Good call the hose was cracked so I replaced it but it did not fix the problem so I did the thing took the key out and walked away that did not help either.
The idle is still between 1200 and 2000 RMP and it is a very hard shift when it does go into gear :dontknow: I'll keep trying. jtpollock :cus:
 
Try pulling codes, and see if anything pops up there...
When my old RT was eating throttle body units; the idle would often be as high as 2,300 rpm. :shocked:
 
Good call the hose was cracked so I replaced it but it did not fix the problem so I did the thing took the key out and walked away that did not help either.
The idle is still between 1200 and 2000 RMP and it is a very hard shift when it does go into gear :dontknow: I'll keep trying. jtpollock :cus:

You said the hose was cracked. There are 2 of them?????
 
The ECM controls the idle speed by air going through 2 hoses from a control valve. If there is a leak the idle speed will be too high and the ECM cannot control it. It could be the control valve is bad but no one has ever reported one as bad before.

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The ECM controls the idle speed by air going through 2 hoses from a control valve. If there is a leak the idle speed will be too high and the ECM cannot control it. It could be the control valve is bad but no one has ever reported one as bad before.

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WOW, now we are really getting complicated I have a jt machine air filter and it has a line that runs from the left side of the crank case to the bottom of the throttle body and that is the one I replaced I have not even looked at the two you have pointed out and the big open host I have a breather filter on Now I am really lost I will pull those two hoses when I get home. I have not seen any issues with this setup I do have 53000 miles on my Spyder. :banghead::gaah:jtpollock
 
Hoses

I have JT's air filter kit too. But the two hoses that Chupaca was referring to are located on the left side of the throttle body. They are black and are about 3 1/2 inches long. Diameter is about 1/4 inch. Be sure and check both hoses.

 
Any air leaks below the throttle plates can increase the idle speed. That is if it is big enough that the IACV cannot not compensate. If the air leak is from the MAP sensor hoses it should cause a rough idle as well because it will change the fuel mixture. But because it is so common a problem it needs to be ruled out. Maybe someone has pictures. The leak could also be from the purge system hose(s) or bad purge valve. As I said the IACV hoses are highly suspect based on the symptoms.

I don't know what hose you are talking about from the crankcase to the throttle bodies????
 
O.K...:dontknow: A few weeks back my RS-S SE5 started with a high idle and will not idle down it is also very hard to get it to shift into 1st. Once I get it into gear all is good but if I shut it off I am back to square one. Any ideas??:helpsmilie:jtpollock.
All good advice on the hoses ,but my RS has done the same thing and it seems to have something to do with vss fault this happened when I was fighting with my aftermarket lites I can't to this day figure how with throttle cables the computer can do this but it can and it happened several times ,my theory is that when the brain thinks the voltage is low it high idles for the safety of the high draw of the dps I posted about this and even scotty couldn't answer as to how the throttle was over ridden and high idle occurred but it can and happened several times to me the key walk would work unless something is still causing faults
 
I don't know what hose you are talking about from the crankcase to the throttle bodies????


It is the engine crankcase breather / vent hose that used to go to the large oem air filter box, but when you have JT's air filter assembly you get a new hose from the crankcase over to the throttle body.
 
It is the engine crankcase breather / vent hose that used to go to the large oem air filter box, but when you have JT's air filter assembly you get a new hose from the crankcase over to the throttle body.

If you're right about which vent hose, from the rear cylinder head. It would have nothing to do with high idle. It's open to atmosphere, above the throttle plates. That's why it changed nothing when fixed.
 
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Thanks all I checked the two long hoses from the maps sensor and they are good I will see if I can find the two short hoses on the left side tomorrow :dontknow: every one has been very helpful
a lot more information than I can get from my local dealer anyway till tomorrow I'll say good night... :banghead: jtpollock
 
First ride in 3 weeks Still having problems with the I high idle. Started this morning about 2200rpm so I shut it off and restarted hit the shift before it could ramp up
it went into reverse with a very hard clunk I had to shut it off again to get it into 1st.... I have replaced the hoses that everyone has suggested :dontknow: Once I got into 1st everything worked OK but it's kind of hard to stop with the idle that high looks like I will have to go to the Dealer but there going to do the same things I have already done and charge me the troubleshooting shop rate. Anyway I just wanted to thank all for your input once again this has not been a good year for the Spyder :cus:nojoke:banghead: jtpollock

Maybe I will have to take the advise I was given at the beginning and make it someone else's problem but then again can I do that with a clear conscious :dontknow: not my style never say die......
 
How much can I get if I sell each part separately????? Wheels with tires in good shape seat fronk with graphics fenders with lights frame engine :yikes:
 
Well here I a shot of the failed part that caused me so mush aggravation but I got them replaced and no more problems :dontknow:
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both parts split almost all the way around. jtpollock
 

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