GET A GRIP ON IT

[SPYD3R]

OK DYI'ers.......
HAS ANY1 REMOVED THE 'OEM' GRIPS OFF OF AN F3-S....???????
i've looked at the Service Manual, and all i can find is how to remove the entire until; modules and all...
i've tried the Compressed Air, and Twisting n Turning.... all to NO AVAIL.... :gaah:
I want to install my Kury grips, but can't figure out how to remove the OEM's....
also, on the right handle, the grip has a 'plastic' tube inside, and i'm afrair i'll break that if i get too aggressive....
any help would be truly appreciated....
thx in advance....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R F3-S

 

[Chupaca]

Don't know..!!

Have done grips on many a bike for many years and have found very few that defied the norm. Have never done spyders but the ones I could not get with air WD40 injected twisting etc I finally had to cut off and wire brush them off. Time consuming and touchy on the throttle tube. Clutch (left handside) not bad. I later found they wanted you to order oem grips that came with the tube. Seriously glued on..this may be the case if so be careful and know where you can get another throttle tube just in case...:gaah:

Update...quick look at the parts list there is no part number for seperate tube and grip...:banghead:

 

[SPYD3R]

thx

Have done grips on many a bike for many years and have found very few that defied the norm. Have never done spyders but the ones I could not get with air WD40 injected twisting etc I finally had to cut off and wire brush them off. Time consuming and touchy on the throttle tube. Clutch (left handside) not bad. I later found they wanted you to order oem grips that came with the tube. Seriously glued on..this may be the case if so be careful and know where you can get another throttle tube just in case...:gaah:

Update...quick look at the parts list there is no part number for seperate tube and grip...:banghead:

THX CHU'EE....
i also noticed that the 'tube' is NOT an independent part number....
i received a PM about the 'clam shell' version of the Kury's grips... however, i already have the SLIP-ON grips from my '09... and i would truly love to install these... very comfortable and about 1.5" longer, which fit my hands better....
thx again pal... i really appreciate all your input....
dp
SPYD3R F3-S

 

[Machinegunner]

I don't know if you saw them, but there are two small screws under the inner end of the rubber grip. The grip should pull off then. On the throttle side it will be more complicated because of the fly by wire control.

 

[SPYD3R]

THX

I don't know if you saw them, but there are two small screws under the inner end of the rubber grip. The grip should pull off then. On the throttle side it will be more complicated because of the fly by wire control.

THX, i'll check that out in the AM.....
dp

 

[bigwhammy]

THX, i'll check that out in the AM.....
dp

Just replaced mine with heated grips
rubber grips are glued on to the white tubes.the 2 screws are to holding the whole grip assembly on to the metal slotted bar (left side only) the 6 inch bar is held into the main handlebar assembly.
caution
Do not touch the spring unless replacing with heated grips
If you take the spring out of the throttle side be careful to tension it back up.
best to undo the whole throttle side and turn clockwise 1/3 turn to align spring in hole in white throttle tube and then put end cap on with spring in slot (both plastic sleeve and metal slotted bar). you may have to move the assembly out and slide it in slightly, If you do not have inner and outer spring return the throttle will be sticky at 1/2 way.

 

[Questions]

No heated grips, no spring issues or adjustments?

Grip change was pretty simple on my '09 RS but the setup on the throttle side has me puckering a bit to make the final cut on this new F3.

So, Bigwhammy... just for clarification, you don't have to mess with the spring assembly at all if you're not installing heated grips? If not, is the throttle side pretty straight forward for standard ISO grip replacements (i.e. a cut-sand-glue install)?

Just want to make sure before I put the throttle side under the knife (the clutch side was a breeze and she looks kinda funny with only one iso grip) :joke:.

Thanks!

 

[bigwhammy]

Grip change was pretty simple on my '09 RS but the setup on the throttle side has me puckering a bit to make the final cut on this new F3.

So, Bigwhammy... just for clarification, you don't have to mess with the spring assembly at all if you're not installing heated grips? If not, is the throttle side pretty straight forward for standard ISO grip replacements (i.e. a cut-sand-glue install)?

Just want to make sure before I put the throttle side under the knife (the clutch side was a breeze and she looks kinda funny with only one iso grip) :joke:.

Thanks!

hi,
when you take the end cap off, just make sure you do not play with the spring it should stay put when you slip the new one on. It can come out but will not just fall out.
maybe to be safe you could put a few small washers on the bolt and screw it back in so the spring stays put you can then cut and sand etc just like the other side.
not sure how much side pressure the throttle reostat can take so make sure you do not bash the new grip on too much, if it slides on it should not break the plastic housing of the throttle reostat/wiring part.

 

[SPYD3R]

THX

hi,
when you take the end cap off, just make sure you do not play with the spring it should stay put when you slip the new one on. It can come out but will not just fall out.
maybe to be safe you could put a few small washers on the bolt and screw it back in so the spring stays put you can then cut and sand etc just like the other side.
not sure how much side pressure the throttle reostat can take so make sure you do not bash the new grip on too much, if it slides on it should not break the plastic housing of the throttle reostat/wiring part.

BIG;
THX FOR THE INFO....
BUT I'VE BACKED OFF FROM INSTALLING MY AFTER-MARKET GRIPS....
that plastic tube under the rubber grips, is just getting in the way of removing those girps.... i guess i'll have to live without my KURY grips, until BRP introduces the new F4, or F5, or maybe F6.....
dan p
easley, sc, use
SPYD3R F3-S

 

[Questions]

My Slip-On Grip update

Well sort of... After reading Big Whammy's reply (Thank you sir, by the way) I decided to forgo chancing the throttle install and took it back to my dealer so they could assume the risk. I am happy to announce that the Spyder Tech over at Mission Motor in Irvine, CA successfully got the throttle side completed... only after um... over four hours! :shocked:

Now, I know what you're thinking, you're thinking they just took long so they could charge me hard money for an easy job. Well no sir, they stuck by their original estimate (1 to 2 hours) and absorbed the rest of the labor cost.The tech did a halfway decent job too, minus the fact that he didn't exactly match placement to the one I already replaced on the clutch side (I can live with it as it is barely noticeable). The fact that I now have a throttle boss again makes that slight annoyance go away (I refuse to use cruise control on anything close to a motorcycle).

From what my service rep told me, the caution and time had to do with the fragile state of the rheostat and a lot of testing to ensure it didn't stick through full range of motion. I believe he had to move the switch housing forward a bit and (judging by my post inspection of his work) he did indeed use a few washers to cap the spring too. However, I am sure he'll do the next one much faster... well maybe...

So this means the Kuryakyn universal 7/8 slip-on grips are compatible with the F3 throttle after using a little ingenuity and a lot of patience (I have the first but not the latter). Just follow Big Whammy's suggestions or cheat like I did...

Here are the grips I used for my black model (I'll post a pic of them installed later):

http://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-6341...---1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2015:can-am:spyder+f3+(sm6)

Special thanks again goes to Big Whammy:cheers: ... your suggestions were spot on!

 

[bigwhammy]

1 inch

Well sort of... After reading Big Whammy's reply (Thank you sir, by the way) I decided to forgo chancing the throttle install and took it back to my dealer so they could assume the risk. I am happy to announce that the Spyder Tech over at Mission Motor in Irvine, CA successfully got the throttle side completed... only after um... over four hours! :shocked:

Now, I know what you're thinking, you're thinking they just took long so they could charge me hard money for an easy job. Well no sir, they stuck by their original estimate (1 to 2 hours) and absorbed the rest of the labor cost.The tech did a halfway decent job too, minus the fact that he didn't exactly match placement to the one I already replaced on the clutch side (I can live with it as it is barely noticeable). The fact that I now have a throttle boss again makes that slight annoyance go away (I refuse to use cruise control on anything close to a motorcycle).

From what my service rep told me, the caution and time had to do with the fragile state of the rheostat and a lot of testing to ensure it didn't stick through full range of motion. I believe he had to move the switch housing forward a bit and (judging by my post inspection of his work) he did indeed use a few washers to cap the spring too. However, I am sure he'll do the next one much faster... well maybe...

So this means the Kuryakyn universal 7/8 slip-on grips are compatible with the F3 throttle after using a little ingenuity and a lot of patience (I have the first but not the latter). Just follow Big Whammy's suggestions or cheat like I did...

Here are the grips I used for my black model (I'll post a pic of them installed later):

http://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-6341...---1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2015:can-am:spyder+f3+(sm6)

Special thanks again goes to Big Whammy:cheers: ... your suggestions were spot on!

Hi, T

Good to here that you got the grips on.
The Inside diameter of the BRP oem rubber grips are 1 inch on the F3 (due to the Ufit system). ie the plastic sleeves are 7/8 ID (to go over the metal sleeves that go in to the bars. The plastic part is 1/16 inch thick, making them 1 inch OD. This is how they can have several bars and just reuse the ends (the metal end bars slip inside the handle bars and screw and clamp on). I can imagine the tech was cursing a bit to get 7/8 to go over 1 inch. I think that is why he took so long....
Get a tech to show you the ufit system, it will all become clear.