**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[ARtraveler]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

:welcome: They are all good--but--the 2013 RT has had heat issues. A fix by BRP is currently on. The jury is still out.

 

[PrairieSpyder]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

:welcome:

What AKSpyderMan said. Otherwise, test ryde all the models to see which style you like. Have fun!! :2thumbs:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

I see this is your first post, so welcome to the forum.

May I suggest you pose your question in a new separate topic. You'll get more attention to it that way, and also you won't mix up topics of conversation within a thread. This thread is focused on things new Spyder owners need to be aware of, so let's try to keep it focused on that. Thanks.

 

[rcflyrj]

Engine RPM

Thanks so much for this thread. Prospective owner here - pick up my 2014 RT-S SE6 in a couple of days.
Read entire thread last night. Confused on one issue - engine RPM. As an ex-sports car racer, and
bike rider for 45 years, I'm familiar with powerbands, both HP and torque. But.....the thread author
recommends always staying in the powerband, yet the manual recommends much lower shift points.
Also my Audi A5 is running only 1800 RPM at a true 75!

Can anyone state definitively where the clutch lockup is for the 1330? Is it advisable to always cruise
above that point, even though shift points might be lower? If cruising below lockup RPM, is the
clutch slipping all the time?

Plan to ask these of the dealer when I pick up, but not sure I'll get good answers.

BTW, my questions are for relaxed cruising, not for highest performance.

Thanks for your help, John

 

[Illinois Boy]

Can anyone state definitively where the clutch lockup is for the 1330? Is it advisable to always cruise
above that point, even though shift points might be lower? If cruising below lockup RPM, is the
clutch slipping all the time?

Please re-read the information. A 1330 does not have the same rpm requirements of the 998 engine. The recommended rpm's for the 1330 are listed; and are provided as a result of many experienced riders' advice.

The clutch "lock" issue is for SE clutches only, not manual clutches. This also does not apply to the 1330's; so no need to worry.

Even at relaxed riding, you'll find your machine operates better at the recommended rpm's listed.

Ride safe, often, and aware!

Illinois Boy

 

[rcflyrj]

SE6 Clutch Lockup

Just to close the loop on this subject. Picked up my 2014 RT S SE6 from dealer today. Queried service manager on the subject. He checked with his Spyder tech who had factory training. The tech confirmed that lockup is 3000 rpm and that Can Am recommended not cruising for extended periods below that, or expect premature wear on the clutch. Not in writing anywhere, especially not in the manual.

FWIW!

John

BTW, absolutely LOVE the bike! Glad I took the plunge.

 

[beadaholic]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.

SHIFTING-POINT SUGGESTIONS for an RTS-SE5:
1[SUP]st[/SUP] to 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] gear: Shift between 22 MPH and 29+ MPH - no sooner!
2[SUP]nd[/SUP] to 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gear: Shift at 5100+ rpm's (39 MPH) Up-shifting to 3rd gear drops the rpm’s to 4,300 -- exactly the rpm's you want to stay above.
3[SUP]rd[/SUP] to 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gear: Shift again at 5100+ rpm's (49 MPH)
4[SUP]th[/SUP] to 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear: Shift to 5[SUP]th[/SUP] only when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain. Upshift and downshifting in 5[SUP]th[/SUP] is expected on hilly terrain to keep the rpm’s up.

I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

 

[Illinois Boy]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.


I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

Read the first post of this entire thread. It is updated constantly by me. There are certainly shifting suggestions for the 1330 engine.

 

[pegasus1300]

I have read re read and printed off the 1st post in this series.As a result I have lowered the gear I ride in especially at slower speeds. I was riding in 3rd but have now gone to 2nd in an attempt to keep the engine between 4500 and 5500 rpm. I no longer attempt to shift to 5th anywhere except the freeway which here in rural Utah I seldom see.I have had my 2012 RT since 6/5/2015 and between rain showers have managed 500 miles. I am averaging right around 29.7 MPG which I am happy with as it is better then the 1500 Gold Wing trike I sold to be able to buy this.It is better then I was led to believe it would be. I find it smooths out at 5000 rpm and it is nice to touch the throttle and just go. The engine seems quite happy around there so I am fine with it too. I will be going in Friday to have the 9300 mi service done by the dealer. Any suggestions on where to get my own service manual? To those who took the (not inconsiderable) time to research and enter all this information and experience,Thank You,Thank You, Thank You. I think every dealer that really cares about the Spyder and their customers should put a copy of this 1st post with the sales contract of every Spyder they sell new or used. I think it would save everybody a lot of grief.

Your experience may be different

 

[beadaholic]

I will re-read it again, I already have been over it a few times. I just don't feel it is quite as clear as what I posted, I wish it was like the part for the 998 engine. But know this: I APPRECIATE IT VERY VERY MUCH! Being I have never owned a motorcycle I am absorbing info like a sponge. I don't have a fellow/friend/husband who rides either. I am in a foreign country on my own! haha, so I am often at a loss to figure out something new, but not afraid of trying! I think there might be some group of Spyder riders about 2 hours away in Mexico City, and I am trying to dig them up so I can join them too if they will have me. But I have not had any good luck yet. Anyway, will print this out today and go over it again! Again THANK YOU!

Read the first post of this entire thread. It is updated constantly by me. There are certainly shifting suggestions for the 1330 engine.

 

[Illinois Boy]

I will re-read it again, I already have been over it a few times. I just don't feel it is quite as clear as what I posted, I wish it was like the part for the 998 engine. But know this: I APPRECIATE IT VERY VERY MUCH! Being I have never owned a motorcycle I am absorbing info like a sponge. I don't have a fellow/friend/husband who rides either. I am in a foreign country on my own! haha, so I am often at a loss to figure out something new, but not afraid of trying! I think there might be some group of Spyder riders about 2 hours away in Mexico City, and I am trying to dig them up so I can join them too if they will have me. But I have not had any good luck yet. Anyway, will print this out today and go over it again! Again THANK YOU!

You have a 1330 engine and it does not need to be operated at the higher rpm's of the 998 engine. Do not use the 998's recommended shift-points for your 1330.

Most people shift the 1330 around the 2500 to 3000 rpm mark. That is about as specific as it gets with the 1330. So do not over think the 1330.

The 1330 was brought to the market to satisfy the average US owner (typically the older owners) who are more accustomed to lower rpm engines. The ECO shift-points were listed; but most feel they are too conservative. Again, shift around 2500 to 3000 and you will be fine. That is consistent with the majority view.

Ride safe, often and aware!

Illinois Boy

 

[beadaholic]

It is now crystal clear for me and I have been riding it like it says here, I have left it in Eco mode for now to help me remember to change gears and to learn to do this better. I really do appreciate the help! Thank YOU!

You have a 1330 engine and it does not need to be operated at the higher rpm's of the 998 engine.
Ride safe, often and aware!

 

[WellsboroSpyder]

#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

but your info is great otherwise

We go to Kurtz Motorsports in Watsontown pa. There is only two people in shop, the owner and family member. Something said about going to a small shop. We know we are getting the best service from assembly to each oil change

 

[Imagestealer]

PDF file for Do's and Do Nots

I have created a PDF version of Illinois Boy's post for reading on a computer. This file could also be transferred to an iPad or other tablet to be available on the road. I used a program called Calibre to convert it to an e-pub file and loaded it into my iPad using iTunes and iBooks.

Note that I have not attached the e-pub file. :read:

Link to the PDF file on Dropbox, as it is too large to upload to the forum.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/btotpxjbi9ce6zy/"Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners.pdf?dl=0

 

[ScreaminMeanie]

Letting the SE-5 downshift for you

I saw it mentioned, but wanted to give the thought a little more emphasis. When you let the SE-5 tranny downshift for you, for example, approaching a stoplight, you MUST completely let off the throttle! After finding myself stopped in 3rd or 4th gear a few times, and having to go through all sorts of contortions to get it to downshift, I finally trained myself that if I was going to come to a full stop, to take my hand off the throttle completely (this may not be comfortable for everyone, but it worked for me). Alternatively, you may want to consciously and physically return the throttle to the full off position. I have a tendency to let my hand roll to a comfortable position when letting off the throttle, but not necessarily all the way back to zero throttle. I don't know how many other people might be likely to do the same thing.

Whenever I'm actively moving around in traffic, or if I'm not sure if a full stop is upcoming, I always downshift manually. This advice is not for those times, only for when you are sure you are coming to a full stop, particularly, say, from highway speeds. The faster you are going (and the higher gear you are in) when the slowdown/stop is initiated, the more likely the machine to be confused if you continue to feed it even the tiniest bit of throttle.

Until I figured this out a couple months into my ownership, it was quite frustrating for me!

 

[Pampurrs]

High RPM

Is it normal for my RT SE6 to turn 4,000 RPM when cruising on the highway in 6th gear? That's a lot higher RPM than I'm used to on previous bikes.

Pam

 

[Illinois Boy]

Is it normal for my RT SE6 to turn 4,000 RPM when cruising on the highway in 6th gear? That's a lot higher RPM than I'm used to on previous bikes.

Pam

Pam,

When you are in sixth-gear and cruising at highway speeds (60mph+) the 1330 engine will run at higher rpm's than most cruiser motorcycles. Nothing to worry about. It is quite normal. Rotax motors are designed for higher rpm's.

Ride often, safe, and aware!

Illinois Boy

 

[Illinois Boy]

I saw it mentioned, but wanted to give the thought a little more emphasis. When you let the SE-5 tranny downshift for you, for example, approaching a stoplight, you MUST completely let off the throttle! After finding myself stopped in 3rd or 4th gear a few times, and having to go through all sorts of contortions to get it to downshift, I finally trained myself that if I was going to come to a full stop, to take my hand off the throttle completely (this may not be comfortable for everyone, but it worked for me). Alternatively, you may want to consciously and physically return the throttle to the full off position. I have a tendency to let my hand roll to a comfortable position when letting off the throttle, but not necessarily all the way back to zero throttle. I don't know how many other people might be likely to do the same thing.

Whenever I'm actively moving around in traffic, or if I'm not sure if a full stop is upcoming, I always downshift manually. This advice is not for those times, only for when you are sure you are coming to a full stop, particularly, say, from highway speeds. The faster you are going (and the higher gear you are in) when the slowdown/stop is initiated, the more likely the machine to be confused if you continue to feed it even the tiniest bit of throttle.

Until I figured this out a couple months into my ownership, it was quite frustrating for me!

No offense, but it was assumed you would let the throttle go to idle for the auto-downshift. Glad you finally discovered that. The Spyder can be sensitive to conflicting inputs; such as holding a throttle on while braking. The Nanny will eventually shut down the system if it is repeated enough times or for long enough.

Ride often, safe, and aware!

 

[Illinois Boy]

I have read re read and printed off the 1st post in this series.As a result I have lowered the gear I ride in especially at slower speeds. I was riding in 3rd but have now gone to 2nd in an attempt to keep the engine between 4500 and 5500 rpm. I no longer attempt to shift to 5th anywhere except the freeway which here in rural Utah I seldom see.I have had my 2012 RT since 6/5/2015 and between rain showers have managed 500 miles. I am averaging right around 29.7 MPG which I am happy with as it is better then the 1500 Gold Wing trike I sold to be able to buy this.It is better then I was led to believe it would be. I find it smooths out at 5000 rpm and it is nice to touch the throttle and just go. The engine seems quite happy around there so I am fine with it too. I will be going in Friday to have the 9300 mi service done by the dealer. Any suggestions on where to get my own service manual? To those who took the (not inconsiderable) time to research and enter all this information and experience,Thank You,Thank You, Thank You. I think every dealer that really cares about the Spyder and their customers should put a copy of this 1st post with the sales contract of every Spyder they sell new or used. I think it would save everybody a lot of grief.

Your experience may be different

I do not have the link for a service manual; but you can google it and you should find one. They typically are just copies made of an original manual and may not always be the highest of quality; but will work better than not having one at all.

Ride often, safe, and aware,

Illinois Boy

 

[nesdspyder]

thanks,

That was very interesting and informative, RIDE SAFELY :firstplace: