Pulling rear tire

[Roadster Renovations]

Getting ready to pull my rear tire from 14 RTS and was wondering if there was anything I need to watch out for or is it as straight forward as the earlier ones. Help much appreciated. Want to take it loose to dealer so that I can get out of there in a timely manner. (last oil change took 10 hours)

[Roadster Renovations]

Gosh, I see 86 of you have viewed this and no comments? Surely someone has removed the tire from their 14 RTS!

[Chupaca]

should be pretty much the same as earlier models. Do you have a shop manual..?? They help a lot. There are some videos on you tube as well. I am assuming you are getting the tire replaced...good luck..

[sddinnh]

Sorry, I had the dealer do it

[Highwayman2013]

Took it off my 2012, just let the air out of the air ride before disconnecting the shock and you might want to put some duct tape over the adjusters so they don't move when you take the axle out.

[Roadster Renovations]

Took it off my 2012, just let the air out of the air ride before disconnecting the shock and you might want to put some duct tape over the adjusters so they don't move when you take the axle out.

The manual doesn't really have anything other than how to adjust the belt. Only thing I was concerned about was the level sensor. I am replacing the tire with the Michelin Hydro Edge. Have about 6K on the Kumo and already on the center wear bars. I'll keep in for a back-up, but getting ready to hit the falls on the Canadian side, then cross back over and head up to Maine, back down the coast to Boston and home. Don't want a 70% worn tire on that trip, especially with rainy weather and possible slick roads. I really like the arrow-type cuts in the tire that pushes the water away.
Thanks for the responses and I'll let you guys know how it goes!

[spyderyderjim]

Getting ready to pull my rear tire from 14 RTS and was wondering if there was anything I need to watch out for or is it as straight forward as the earlier ones. Help much appreciated. Want to take it loose to dealer so that I can get out of there in a timely manner. (last oil change took 10 hours)

Hi,
Yes remove air level sensor lever upper bolt (10mm socket and 10mm wrench on nut).
Let air out of blatter.
Remove rear axel cotter key & 36mm nut (100 ft # tight).
Jack up rear wheel.
Remove lower rear shock bolt (15mm).
Remove 2 (15 mm) bolts holding rear Brimbo brake caliper, support the rear caliper.
Pull axel bolt.
You only need to remove rear brake disc from rear wheel.
Note: Discount tire will mount your new rear tire for about $8.
Put 16 oz of Ride-On in rear tire to balance it while riding.
Re-assemble rear wheel.
Enjoy your beautiful ride coming up!!
The 2014 Spyder RT's are awesome!!
Jim

[cptjam]

Use a 36mm socket and a big crescent wrench. Loosen axle nut. Jack up rear of bike. Remove axle nut, slide axle out. Jack up higher, remove belt, roll wheel out a bit. Cock wheel left, free up rear brake carrier. Roll wheel out from under fender. When you get it back, slather axle with anti-seize. Put back together.

[cptjam]

You can put duct tape on the axle adjusters, or, better idea: align the rear axle properly! Here is how:
Put it back together, but leave axle hand tight. With the wheel off the ground a bit, spin wheel by hand. If the belt migrates on the pulley, it is not square. Spin the wheel backwards. I do ten revolutions each way. The manual says up to 3/16th" migration is ok. Turn the Allen head bolts until it does not migrate. Once you are sure it is aligned, torque the axle to 95 foot pounds. Done! The trouble with the tape idea is you could keep it from moving, but is it right? Don't guess! KNOW!
While you are at it, check tire pressure. Most are off. Call if you get stuck. Joe

[mtdoragary]

Or bring it to Captain J A Myer !!!

You can put duct tape on the axle adjusters, or, better idea: align the rear axle properly! Here is how:
Put it back together, but leave axle hand tight. With the wheel off the ground a bit, spin wheel by hand. If the belt migrates on the pulley, it is not square. Spin the wheel backwards. I do ten revolutions each way. The manual says up to 3/16th" migration is ok. Turn the Allen head bolts until it does not migrate. Once you are sure it is aligned, torque the axle to 95 foot pounds. Done! The trouble with the tape idea is you could keep it from moving, but is it right? Don't guess! KNOW!
While you are at it, check tire pressure. Most are off. Call if you get stuck. Joe

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You can put duct tape on the axle adjusters, or, better idea: align the rear axle properly! Here is how:
Put it back together, but leave axle hand tight. With the wheel off the ground a bit, spin wheel by hand. If the belt migrates on the pulley, it is not square. Spin the wheel backwards. I do ten revolutions each way. The manual says up to 3/16th" migration is ok. Turn the Allen head bolts until it does not migrate. Once you are sure it is aligned, torque the axle to 95 foot pounds. Done! The trouble with the tape idea is you could keep it from moving, but is it right? Don't guess! KNOW!
While you are at it, check tire pressure. Most are off. Call if you get stuck. Joe

.....However, IMHO...if the BELT is running true to begin with ...and you don't move the adjuster's when you remove the wheel/tire ......when you re-mount the assembly it should be where it was when you started.........................just sayin .....Mikeguyver

[SpyderAnn01]

.....However, IMHO...if the BELT is running true to begin with ...and you don't move the adjuster's when you remove the wheel/tire ......when you re-mount the assembly it should be where it was when you started.........................just sayin .....Mikeguyver

That's why he suggested using tape to mark the location.

[bgame]

Hi,
Yes remove air level sensor lever upper bolt (10mm socket and 10mm wrench on nut).
Let air out of blatter.
Remove rear axel cotter key & 36mm nut (100 ft # tight).
Jack up rear wheel.
Remove lower rear shock bolt (15mm).
Remove 2 (15 mm) bolts holding rear Brimbo brake caliper, support the rear caliper.
Pull axel bolt.
You only need to remove rear brake disc from rear wheel.
Note: Discount tire will mount your new rear tire for about $8.
Put 16 oz of Ride-On in rear tire to balance it while riding.
Re-assemble rear wheel.
Enjoy your beautiful ride coming up!!
The 2014 Spyder RT's are awesome!!
Jim

Rear drive axle nut torque 210 N•m to 240 N•m (155 lbf•ft to 177 lbf•ft) page 164

2014 manual says the rear axel nut is to be 155 ft.# to 177 ft. # tight not 100 ft #

[KX5062]

Rear drive axle nut torque 210 N•m to 240 N•m (155 lbf•ft to 177 lbf•ft) page 164

2014 manual says the rear axel nut is to be 155 ft.# to 177 ft. # tight not 100 ft #

Not disputing what you've written, but HOLY SMOKES that is tight!!!!!

[bgame]

Not disputing what you've written, but HOLY SMOKES that is tight!!!!!

YEP.... kind of what I thought....but that is what it says.....

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

[QUOTE=SpyderAnn01;865749]That's why he suggested using tape to mark the location.[/QUOTE...He's also suggesting He touch and fiddle around with the AXEL ADJUSTERS .......If they are OK ....I say leave well enough alone ......Why adjust something that doesn't need adjustment .....Sorry but I don't see the logic in that !!!!....................Mikeguyver

[Bob Denman]

MikeGuyver,
I do hope that you're not planning on trying to change Ann's mind...
They're married... to each other!

I would also guess that their experience with using the laser alignment systms; might just give them both some perspective, that most of us lack...

...just sayin'...

[Highwayman2013]

You can put duct tape on the axle adjusters, or, better idea: align the rear axle properly! Here is how:
Put it back together, but leave axle hand tight. With the wheel off the ground a bit, spin wheel by hand. If the belt migrates on the pulley, it is not square. Spin the wheel backwards. I do ten revolutions each way. The manual says up to 3/16th" migration is ok. Turn the Allen head bolts until it does not migrate. Once you are sure it is aligned, torque the axle to 95 foot pounds. Done! The trouble with the tape idea is you could keep it from moving, but is it right? Don't guess! KNOW!
While you are at it, check tire pressure. Most are off. Call if you get stuck. Joe

Hey, who gave me that idea? I should have added "if the belt was tracking properly" lol

[Highwayman2013]

That's why he suggested using tape to mark the location.

Thanks for the backup!

Len

[Highwayman2013]

I only mentioned the duct tape because the right adjuster wouldn't stay tight on reassembly for me and I had to fiddle with the adjusters. My belt was tracking good but when I torqued the axle the adjuster on the right moved.

Len

[cptjam]

It does say 155 to 177, but for a threaded tube axle, seems excessive. The 2012 and older were 95 foot pounds. Solid motorcycle axles are typically 90-100. I am having the dealer inquire on the dealer forum. The tech here just ignores the spec, and tightens by feel. Typical beam torque wrenches only go to 140 ft lbs, as does my click wrench. Very odd it would go up 50 pounds!

[bgame]

It does say 155 to 177, but for a threaded tube axle, seems excessive. The 2012 and older were 95 foot pounds. Solid motorcycle axles are typically 90-100. I am having the dealer inquire on the dealer forum. The tech here just ignores the spec, and tightens by feel. Typical beam torque wrenches only go to 140 ft lbs, as does my click wrench. Very odd it would go up 50 pounds!

I'd get a new tec....by feel??????... what dumb tec...

[SNOOPY]

[QUOTE=BLUEKNIGHT911;865820]

That's why he suggested using tape to mark the location.[/QUOTE...He's also suggesting He touch and fiddle around with the AXEL ADJUSTERS .......If they are OK ....I say leave well enough alone ......Why adjust something that doesn't need adjustment .....Sorry but I don't see the logic in that !!!!....................Mikeguyver

Id have to agree w this if the adjusters actually stay put. Why mess w the alignment if it was good before?

Why go through realignment each time you change a tire?

.

[Roadster Renovations]

Belt is tracking good. Good tension. Thought I would check it with my cricket before pulling so that tension could be matched on reassembly if needed. I was also wondering about that 155 ft.lb. torque. I rarely go over 100 ftlbs on solid bolts in car engines. I would think 100 would plenty and no way would I trust by feel. I am fabricating a set of highway pegs this weekend and will address the tire next week. If anyone know what the correct amount of Ride-On sealer/balancer I should put in the rear tire, the info would be appreciated. I figured 2 bottles for the rear and 1/2 per wheel for the fronts.

[cptjam]

[QUOTE=SNOOPY;865953]

Id have to agree w this if the adjusters actually stay put. Why mess w the alignment if it was good before?

Why go through realignment each time you change a tire?

.

Because I can! LOL! Actually, it is simple to check, and makes it ride better.
The local tech agreed with me on the torque. I tighten by feel, then check with the torque wrench. I am usually within a pound or two. 155 is crazy high. Ann is on her 3rd tire, since February, and counting her initial alignment, it have assembled her rear axle four times @ 95ft#, and have had no issues. I will wait on a real answer, as they have been wrong before!