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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
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Mine stalled a dozen times in the first hundred miles as well. It's not unusual while it's learning and breaking in.
I would expect it to clear up by the time your first service is due tho. Mention it during your service and they should be able to find something. I doubt it's anything major.
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...in the pink (Girls On Spyders)
Mine has never stalled....I put 700 miles on it the 1st 2 days and had my 600 mile service then road it home 750 miles...now have 3500 and it has never stalled...is it SE or MS
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SpyderLovers Founder
Mine has stalled several times too and I asked the tech about it and he said that the new motors were "tight" and it should get better as you put more miles on it. I must say mine seems to be cured at 3000 miles.
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Mine did it 3 times in the first 100 miles. I'm 2,700 or so miles in and it's never done it again.
<knock wood>
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
Mine has stalled several times too and I asked the tech about it and he said that the new motors were "tight" and it should get better as you put more miles on it. I must say mine seems to be cured at 3000 miles.
Is that advice limited to the ST?
I ask because my *2010 RS* did the same thing the first few months I had it, stalled twice inexplicably. Hasn't happened in 10,000 miles since.
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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
SE
Originally Posted by flamingobabe
Mine has never stalled....I put 700 miles on it the 1st 2 days and had my 600 mile service then road it home 750 miles...now have 3500 and it has never stalled...is it SE or MS
Hi, It is an SE. It sounds like you may have gotten lucky
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Active Member
Stalling
New 2013 RT LTD stalled 3 times during first 500 miles and hasn't stalled again in the following 1500 miles.....getting better all the time (except gas mileage)........
2014 Cognac RT Limited #185 (destroyed in T-Bone wreck 3/21/2014)
2014 Cognac RT Limited #5333 (replacement 5/16/2014)
2018 Champagne RT Limited #1002 (traded 1/31/2018)
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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Thanks
Thanks everyone for your responses. Glad to hear that it should go away because otherwise it seems to be running fine so I will keep an eye on it and mention it to the tech when I take it in.
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Looks like..!!
folks got you covered. Just a few hicups that will go away with time...enjoy..!!
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Registered Users
My 2013 STS also did it a few times before I had 1000 miles on it. Now that I have 3500 miles on it seems to be fine now
** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **
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And here I thought I was the only one with that problem. My RT Limited has just over 500 miles on it and stalled halve a dozen times, nearly got run over yesterday. Checked with my dealer and they hooked it up to the computer but no issues found even though it stalled on him also. In the interem keeping the RPM at approx 1800 - 2000 when stopped at a light. UPDATE Now have 832 miles and for the last 150 miles have not had anymore problems.
Last edited by Dragonfly; 05-20-2013 at 09:12 PM.
Reason: Update
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Whether its normal is debatable. Ours was throwing codes and BRP had the dealer do a complete system reload, much more than a simple push over the diag connector and it seemed to clear most of it up.
An engine doesn't stall because its tight, that's complete and utter BS. It stalls because the throttle body or IAC isn't responding correctly, there's a leak in the intake or the computer isn't commanding the injectors or IAC correctly. It's a flaw, period! Why it clears up over time is a mystery.
Our dealer claims this started happening a lot in 2012 when they changed the lining in the fuel tank and said most of the stalling issues go away over time. I have a hard time buying this and think it's a combination of factors but I don't have the tools needed to correctly diagnose the system so I'm left with the sometimes silly reasons coming from dealers and BRP. I have noticed its worse when there is less than 1/4 tank of gas so I think it's a fuel pressure issue, possibly due to a vacuum or fuel pickup issue. Again, why it gets better over time makes no sense.
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Stall Speed.
Well, I really appreciate this thread, as my 2012 RT-S has stalled three times now (at 40 mph, then at a stop light, and the last time while at the gas pumps on the way to the dealer, 120 miles away), and it acted like it was going to stall while getting onto I-84, but it pulled out of the stall. It's good to know as much as I can about the Spyder, so these posts have been great information for me to have. Although I DID sort of start thinking about that Honda F6B.............<M>
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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
ST-L Stalling
Mine has never stalled, but it only has a little over 600 miles on it. I'm just hoping if it hasn't yet, that it won't.
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Active Member
Re: New ST Limited Stalling
My 2012 RTS SE5 stalled once shortly after a fuel fillup....may have been the fuel, 1,000 miles later it hasn't occurred again.
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Name: Eric Heims
Red 2016 RTS, Diamond R Armrests, Ram X Mount, Doc Humphreys Dampener, BajaRon Swaybar, Spyderpops "Critter Splitter"
"It is the common fate of the indolent to see their rights become a prey to the active. The condition upon which God hath given liberty to man is eternal vigilance; which condition if he break, servitude is at once the consequence of his crime and the punishment of his guilt." John Philpot Curran 1790
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by mjw930
An engine doesn't stall because its tight, that's complete and utter BS. It stalls because the throttle body or IAC isn't responding correctly, there's a leak in the intake or the computer isn't commanding the injectors or IAC correctly. It's a flaw, period! Why it clears up over time is a mystery.
While the throttle plate not responding correctly or various other problems could cause stalling, most of the time stalling when stopped/idle are fueling issues.
Your ECU learns how much fuel is needed at a given mass of air in order to run at the designed Air/Fuel ratio. It then modifies the injector pulse width by up to + or - 10% to compensate for both mechanical differences and environmental differences.
Every motor and environment is going to be a bit different and require differing amounts of fuel to keep the engine idling smoothly. You can be quite certain that your environment is different from the one the motor was born in. And that your motor will break in differently than someone else's.
The older GS manual said it can take up to 100 miles before it has collected enough data to learn how much it needs to tweak the injector pulses to achieve it's designed A/F ratio at idle.
Until then, it very well could stall or idle rough, or let out funny colored smoke. No mystery.
All three of my Spyders have done this when new. It's annoying, but it's a lot less irritating (or to some people, infuriating) once you understand what's happening and that it's temporary.
If it bugs you, take it to a decent dealer and ask.
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I can also report that my new ST-Limited has stalled 4 times in the first 65 miles. 2 times when pulling up to a stop sign and 2 times while idling in the carport. Starts right back up with no issues.
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No Stalling But - - -
My new ST has never stalled but it misses like crazy if you take off slowly or drive really slowly like around a busy parking lot. Dealer could find no problem. I have almost 800 miles on it now. Hope it outgrows this problem. Until then, I'll just have to ryde FAST!
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the general theme here seem to be when you have a minor problem - ryde the bike more and more before dashing back to the dealer... it may smiply be a break in issue and the dealer can't fix that.. I have seen this problem come and go with two new STs locally...
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Originally Posted by Sny
While the throttle plate not responding correctly or various other problems could cause stalling, most of the time stalling when stopped/idle are fueling issues.
Your ECU learns how much fuel is needed at a given mass of air in order to run at the designed Air/Fuel ratio. It then modifies the injector pulse width by up to + or - 10% to compensate for both mechanical differences and environmental differences.
Every motor and environment is going to be a bit different and require differing amounts of fuel to keep the engine idling smoothly. You can be quite certain that your environment is different from the one the motor was born in. And that your motor will break in differently than someone else's.
The older GS manual said it can take up to 100 miles before it has collected enough data to learn how much it needs to tweak the injector pulses to achieve it's designed A/F ratio at idle.
Until then, it very well could stall or idle rough, or let out funny colored smoke. No mystery.
All three of my Spyders have done this when new. It's annoying, but it's a lot less irritating (or to some people, infuriating) once you understand what's happening and that it's temporary.
If it bugs you, take it to a decent dealer and ask.
Pretty much everything you've said is accurate however there is no excuse for a modern closed loop fuel injected motor to stall under normal operation. It stalls because something in the system is out of spec or the base map isn't fully developed. The fact it clears over time would seem to indicate they have overweighted the block learn tables in the idle RPM ranges but without the proper diagnostic equipment I can't help them diagnose the root cause. Another variable that has seemed to exasperate the problem is the drive by wire throttle. I can tell you from experience the addition of DBW makes for some interesting programming challenges. Interesting that the older cable based throttle bikes didn't have the issue.
FYI, I'm and engineer by trade and have a lot of experience programming automotive, marine and motorcycle EFI systems. Also, ask yourself if Harley, BMW, Ducati, Yamaha and MV Agusta's have stalling issues? They are all closed loop DBW EFI systems and none of them have stalling issues at idle or on tip in. Only BRP seems to have issues getting things dialed it. Luckily, the problem seems to clear over time which is why it's not become a major issue for them.
oh, and we love our ST-S so this is not a slam on the bike, just an observation by an educated consumer.
Last edited by mjw930; 05-31-2013 at 07:41 PM.
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Originally Posted by mjw930
It stalls because something in the system is out of spec or the base map isn't fully developed. The fact it clears over time would seem to indicate they have overweighted the block learn tables in the idle RPM ranges
Absolutely correct. Those first few miles things ARE out of spec. An engine goes through a lot of changes in those first couple dozen miles as things literally "break in".
Engines from Harley don't have this problem because every engine is run on a test stand under load for 25 miles before they install it in a bike. Most manufacturers also have a pre-break-in run on their engines. BRP (more specifically Rotax) does not. They have instructed dealers to, get this, RIDE THEM 25 miles before giving them to a customer.
Who's going to want a bike with 25 miles on it? So, of course, none of the dealers do this. And there's a lot of teething issues as the engines go through the worst part of their break-in period. Those first 25 miles.
I'm not saying this is normal for all engines. But it is quite normal for blueprinted racing motors, which is why when we put them together we have to run them on the dyno for an hour before they see the track. And from what I've heard from a couple dealers, it's normal for Spyders.
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Same Here
Originally Posted by Jharpo
My new ST has never stalled but it misses like crazy if you take off slowly or drive really slowly like around a busy parking lot. Dealer could find no problem. I have almost 800 miles on it now. Hope it outgrows this problem. Until then, I'll just have to ryde FAST!
Mine did stall once while leaving a fuel stop but it runs really rough at very slow speeds, both forward and reverse. It feels like its going to stall any second when backing out of the garage. Dealer said there were no problems at 600 mile check up. I have 1200 miles now and it's still doing it.
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Originally Posted by Jharpo
Mine did stall once while leaving a fuel stop but it runs really rough at very slow speeds, both forward and reverse. It feels like its going to stall any second when backing out of the garage. Dealer said there were no problems at 600 mile check up. I have 1200 miles now and it's still doing it.
I'm guessing you have an SE5?
It's pretty normal for odd hesitations, shuddering and lurching at very low speeds during the first 2-3k miles. The transmissions take a while to smooth out and some never do.
Again, I wish it weren't so... but it is normal and common for these machines. Doesn't hurt anything unless it's extreme.
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