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Very Active Member
When you turn the key,nothing happens
Has anyone else had this happen. When I turn the ignition key on my 2009 SE5,nothing happens. I take it all of the way out,turn it over,or sometimes just keep trying, and finally the dash wakes up and I can start the engine. This happens with both of my keys.I'm not sure if anything I am doing is causing it to finally work,except repetition of trying it.When this happens,the key returns to center if I let it go.
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Originally Posted by cyclelover63
Has anyone else had this happen. When I turn the ignition key on my 2009 SE5,nothing happens. I take it all of the way out,turn it over,or sometimes just keep trying, and finally the dash wakes up and I can start the engine. This happens with both of my keys.I'm not sure if anything I am doing is causing it to finally work,except repetition of trying it.When this happens,the key returns to center if I let it go.
I often check my relays in the front fuse box to make sure they are seated, by pushing down on them. Most times I will hear a click and its often from the vibrations that they become unseated. You also may want to check your fuses while your in there. There is a main fuse that I think is a 40 amp and looking at the cover, will tell you which one it is for your console.
I'm not a wizard with this stuff and am sure others who know more about this, will give you a better idea of what your problem may be. Good Luck!
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Sounds like you are pushing in on the key. The Spyder ignition switch has multiple positions and functions. If you push in (down) and clockwise, it opens the seat to allow access to the gas tank. If you push in and turn counter clockwise, it will open the front trunk. Not pushing down, turning the bars to lock, and turning counterclockwise, locks the steering. Not pushing down at all, and turning clockwise, turns the ignition on, The key should remain turned, in this position. There also should be a slightly different feel for the different positions.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Sounds like you are pushing in on the key. The Spyder ignition switch has multiple positions and functions. If you push in (down) and clockwise, it opens the seat to allow access to the gas tank. If you push in and turn counter clockwise, it will open the front trunk. Not pushing down, turning the bars to lock, and turning counterclockwise, locks the steering. Not pushing down at all, and turning clockwise, turns the ignition on, The key should remain turned, in this position. There also should be a slightly different feel for the different positions.
right on...if the key returns to center position, it is because he is not using the key properly (he's obviously applying downward pressure when turning the key)...geez, the dealer should at least start people out with the basics!!
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Here is another very important piece of information that your dealer may not have told you about. On the SE5, if you ever shut it off while in gear you will have to press down on the brake pedal when trying to start it. It should start and shift itself into Neutral at that point. If you don't step on the brake, you can sit there all day long and it will not start.
arntufun, I notice your new signature line. I hate to tell you this, but it is all over now. Soon enough you will become a member of the 2 Spyder family crew.
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Active Member
Stuck in first gear
From one relative rooky to another, you may also want to find out another way to get back to neutral if you leave in gear when you turn it off. The manual actually tells you how to move the transmission to neutral using the 13mm wrench in the tool kit. One guess how I might know this. Thanks for the tip on using the brake when starting to encourage shifting to neutral. Do you have to use the brake or will the emergency brake suffice? I had tried both before manually changing the transmission to neutral I thought, but not 100% sure.
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Very Active Member
Well,all of you passed the test!!!...lol...just kidding...I was pushing down on the key when I was turning it...We rode to a Can Am dealer and I asked the service manager. He came out and watched me start it,and spotted it right off..I'm glad there wasn't anything wrong with my bike,but i really feel stupid!!!!..And,yes,I bought it used from a private owner..I love it and I'm having a ball..And I read the manual many times on the starting procedure,but was looking for something more technical,i guess..Thank you to everyone..your all awesome!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by capejwc
From one relative rooky to another, you may also want to find out another way to get back to neutral if you leave in gear when you turn it off. The manual actually tells you how to move the transmission to neutral using the 13mm wrench in the tool kit. One guess how I might know this. Thanks for the tip on using the brake when starting to encourage shifting to neutral. Do you have to use the brake or will the emergency brake suffice? I had tried both before manually changing the transmission to neutral I thought, but not 100% sure.
The manual says foot brake.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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newbie here
I've been having this same problem with turning the key but it doesn't want to start even after I press the M button. So I've gathered so far that I need to have it in nuetral when I turn off the engine. Right? I've read the manual several times and I don't remember it telling me this. I was so nervous when at the dealers he could have told me everything I needed to know and I don't remember it.
But when I get her going I'm ryding high. I love this machine
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Originally Posted by MOSpyderLady
I've been having this same problem with turning the key but it doesn't want to start even after I press the M button. So I've gathered so far that I need to have it in nuetral when I turn off the engine. Right? I've read the manual several times and I don't remember it telling me this. I was so nervous when at the dealers he could have told me everything I needed to know and I don't remember it.
But when I get her going I'm ryding high. I love this machine
Do you have a SM5 or SE5? Remember to turn the key, don't push it in...also, you can start the manual bike in either neutral or 1st gear...however, you'd want the clutch in if in first or else you're jerk and stall the bike...
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I have the SE5. I turn the key, controls light up, it tells me to push the M button, I do this and yes the red button has already been pushed down into the run position, then sometimes it starts right up and the other times there is nothing. I keep playing with it until it starts but this seems embarrising when in front of the gas station where other people are watching.
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Originally Posted by MOSpyderLady
I have the SE5. I turn the key, controls light up, it tells me to push the M button, I do this and yes the red button has already been pushed down into the run position, then sometimes it starts right up and the other times there is nothing. I keep playing with it until it starts but this seems embarrising when in front of the gas station where other people are watching.
This does sound odd...I know the SE5 has a few more quirks over the SM5...we'll need someone else to chime in here...if you are getting random issues when doing the same thing over and over again, there could be a potential issue that the dealer might have to address...
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Originally Posted by MOSpyderLady
I have the SE5. I turn the key, controls light up, it tells me to push the M button, I do this and yes the red button has already been pushed down into the run position, then sometimes it starts right up and the other times there is nothing. I keep playing with it until it starts but this seems embarrising when in front of the gas station where other people are watching.
Press down on the brake and try it. If you still have problems then, you may have a bad security module or a bad key.
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Originally Posted by capejwc
From one relative rooky to another, you may also want to find out another way to get back to neutral if you leave in gear when you turn it off. The manual actually tells you how to move the transmission to neutral using the 13mm wrench in the tool kit. One guess how I might know this. Thanks for the tip on using the brake when starting to encourage shifting to neutral. Do you have to use the brake or will the emergency brake suffice? I had tried both before manually changing the transmission to neutral I thought, but not 100% sure.
The foot brake has to be engaged, the parking brake won't do anything for you. You can also play with the paddle all day long and it is not going to shift gears without the Spyder running.
Don't feel bad, on my first group ryde we pulled over to wait for some others who were getting gas. I turned the Spyder off as it was taking them too long to catch up. They rode by and I tried starting the Spyder. Spent the next 3 minutes wondering why I couldn't get it to start. Then just happened to step on the brake at the same time and it fired right up. It was at that moment I remembered the dealer saying something about that.
Originally Posted by MOSpyderLady
I have the SE5. I turn the key, controls light up, it tells me to push the M button, I do this and yes the red button has already been pushed down into the run position, then sometimes it starts right up and the other times there is nothing. I keep playing with it until it starts but this seems embarrising when in front of the gas station where other people are watching.
If you look at your gauge cluster, it should tell you what gear the Spyder is in. If you see anything other than N, put your foot on the brake and it should start. It might not be a bad thing to press down on the brake pedal everytime you are starting the Spyder, just to be sure.
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Originally Posted by cyclelover63
Well,all of you passed the test!!!...lol...just kidding...I was pushing down on the key when I was turning it...We rode to a Can Am dealer and I asked the service manager. He came out and watched me start it,and spotted it right off..I'm glad there wasn't anything wrong with my bike,but i really feel stupid!!!!..And,yes,I bought it used from a private owner..I love it and I'm having a ball..And I read the manual many times on the starting procedure,but was looking for something more technical,i guess..Thank you to everyone..your all awesome!
Don't feel stupid, as that is how we learn. When I first got Orbit I was making a left turn, and would stall out after going a few feet. I would restart, and give more gas. Then the fourth time (yes the fourth time) I was able to get him through the left turn, and to the side of the road. A cage behind me pulled over to offer help, but by this time I realized I was still in fifth gear Boy did I feel stupid, but I never made that mistake again.
Is it Friday yet? ... Oh yeah, I forgot. I'm retired
Past bikes
2010 RS - Sold
2012 RT - Sold
2014 RT - Testing completed
2016 F3-T Audio package - Sold
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having made several different starting errors on my SE5 (yes, in just a week, what can i say, i am dedicated to make every error once!) here are my tips: (i know some of these have been covered before, but hey, here they are all in one post)
1. make sure you press M quickly (if you hold in M until the message disappear, it won't start) - i asked dealer about this before i got her home (due to repeatedly holding M down too long)
2. make sure foot brake is depressed - i found this out (can't remember if dealer told me) when trying to show to a friend who was sitting in saddle
3. make sure you are not pressing key down when your turn it
4. do NOT try to start, or press M, while initial diagnostics are still running. to combat this i have developed a routine, i turn key On, then get on Spyder, press down foot brake, disengage parking brake, then turn off engine kill, then check display, hit M, Start.
5. make sure engine kill switch is not engaged
6. (if applicable) make sure you have YOUR Spyder key, and not your SO's (this does not apply to many, including myself, but is included for completeness of the list)
i think those are all the errors i have committed (and the bonus one).
hopefully one of these is always the problem, if not, then get it checked by dealer....
oh, and for those who did not know on SE5 (at least the '11 model year) the clutch disengages the gear whenever your turn off engine (and it will continuously beep at you until you engage parking brake). so whenever you go to start an SE5 (again i have only ever rydden an '11) it will always be in N when you start it - or try to.
Last edited by KipDM; 04-10-2011 at 11:42 PM.
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Very Handy Member
Originally Posted by KipDM
6. (if applicable) make sure you have YOUR Spyder key, and not your SO's (this does not apply to many, including myself, but is included for completeness of the list)
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Been there, done that, got the T-shirt! Let that be a lesson to all you multiple Spyder families out there.
Yup, did this once early on too. Had a heck of a time getting the key out of the ignition. Now both spare keys are in a safe place, but not really sure if we had to use the spare if we would know which is which...lol. I think we marked them, I sure hope so anyway.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Starting 2011 RT
I have made all the mistakes and been embarrassed several times and also had battery run down somewhat so I am not proficient yet - thanks for all the tips but mine seems to do as it pleases no matter what I do sometimes!!! YIKES
Especially problematic is the parking brake-- I can;t tell if it is on or off until it starts to roll- this could be too late-- it beeps sometimes and not beeps sometimes-- I press and press and follow all the directions but it never does the same thing twice-- wish you could give me pointers on this issue!! Please Joan
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it should beep EVERY time you turn it off (key in off position) even if you are holding down the brake pedal.
i have found that whenever i apply the parking brake too fast it clicks but immediately disengages.
whenever i slowly lower it and press down 2-4 clicks, it always engages.
if you find that it only sometimes beeps when you turn the key off: take it back to dealer for an electrical repair 'cause something is wrong.
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