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Looking at a 2011 Can-Am Spyder - what is good &/or bad about that year?
The wife has a 2014 and I like it a lot, I am looking at a 2011 Can-Am Spyder for sale; what is good and what is bad about that year? Thank you.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2023 at 04:05 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question/s... ;-)
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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What model? The 2011 & 2012 RT were better than the 2010. BRP cut some corners on the 2010, though these can be corrected.
The RS & RSS were good in 2011. For the RT, you won't do any better 'til you get to the 2014. Though if ridden as designed, the 998 is a very good motor and will perform as well as the 1330 in most cases.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2023 at 04:40 PM.
Reason: preform ... ;-)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Well that depends ......if you have ridden Hers and like it ..... you may be dis-appointed in an 11 Spyder ..... it doesn't have the 1330 engine which IMHO ( and others ) is a lot better for many reasons .... the 1330 is more like the Goldwung Honda .... High torque + low revs while operating .... Also there is less maintenance ..... I would drive the V-twin and see if you like it ......good luck ....Mike
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2023 at 05:28 PM.
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
What model? The 2011 & 2012 RT were better than the 2010. BRP cut some corners on the 2010, though these can be corrected.
The RS & RSS were good in 2011. For the RT, you won't do any better 'til you get to the 2014. Though if ridden as designed, the 998 is a very good motor and will perform as well as the 1330 in most cases.
I dunno Ron, I'd suggest that once the heat recall work has been done, the 2013 V-twin SE5 models are the pick of the rev-loving, peppier, and much more exciting to ride V-twin models; cos they come with all the frame & suspension enhancements AND the much better Brembo brakes etc that were intended to herald the introduction of the 1330 motor; only when push came to shove, the new motor just didn't meet the production deadline! So the 2013 to 2016 V-twin powered Spyders, available in RT, ST, & RS variants, got all the good stuff the 2014 RT's have, AND they kept the more exciting motor too!
And Mike, just cos the 1330 motors have got torque coming out the wazoo from right off idle and they need a little less maintenance, it doesn't really make that low revving & lazy motor all that 'spirited' or 'exciting' to ride, now does it?! Sure, it might be fine if you were brought up on motorbikes with low revving motors that only fired at every second telegraph pole and you never really liked changing gears anyway; but especially now that my 2013's had an ECU Upgrade that means it more than matches the 1330's power output, plus the addition of a few of the other 'widely recognised as beneficial' mods (altho maybe it's time to look at your Ultra sway bar, Ron?! ) I really haven't found anything that's enough of an improvement or upgrade to tempt me away from my 2013 yet!! Besides, I LIKE revs AND running up & down thru the gears as I carve thru the twisties at a pace that not too many of the heavier 1330's can manage, let alone keep up with, especially on a good day when I'm in the groove! And I'm by no means the greatest rider, there's a whole lot of those better'n me out there, especially amongst the younger & braver (?? ) V-twin Spyder riders who can easily leave me in their dust!! But funnily enough, none of them ride 1330 powered Spyders... : So I'm still arguing that the V-twins have a place, and the 2013 V-twin Spyders are the pick of the V-twin crop!
Just Sayin'
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2023 at 09:14 PM.
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The problem I see with the 2011 RT is that dealers may not work on it since it is over 10 years old. Unless you are a good mechanic or know one, you might want to be cautious.
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Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
The problem I see with the 2011 RT is that dealers may not work on it since it is over 10 years old. Unless you are a good mechanic or know one, you might want to be cautious.
I agree. Parts are getting harder and harder to find on these older Spyders. I also think the price is a little on the high side even though they are throwing in the trailer. But if you have no use for the trailer, its really a bad deal in my opinion. Good luck in your hunt.
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2023 at 10:57 PM.
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For that money I would sell you mine!!
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I agree with BLUEKNIGHT Mike for all the reasons he listed. Think about it this way too, if BRP saw a future in the V-twin engine, they would still be equipping some version of a three wheel design vehicle with it.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
That's what he started off at he is now selling it for $7,000 for the bike and trailer.....
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-24-2023 at 03:15 PM.
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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Very Active Member
We bought a new 2011 A & C (RT with the audio and convenience package) new in 2012. I bought this one for Linda. We kept it until 2019 when I traded it off for a new 2019 F3L. it had over 40K trouble free miles. In its lifetime, it needed only oil changes, filters, and tires. It never broke down on us or gave us any problems. The person that bought it from the dealer got a really good used RT.
There are a couple downsides, compared to a newer model. It is a five speed and comes with the 998 engine. IMO, much peppier than the 1330's. Maintenance, per the schedule (avoid the valve check services at all costs). They are not needed, and will cost an additional $1,500 to perform by a dealer. Parts and repairs today on a 10 year old machine COULD be an issue. Dealers are now pulling the "we don't work on old machines tactic." I would check into this in your area before taking a bite.
Price seems way too high. I recommend going to NADA and KBB to check the blue books in your area. I note they also want to pass off a trailer. They are good trailers, but command a very high price. I am guessing they want $3K for the trailer a $12K for the bike. Considering the engine is not made any longer, and service and parts may be an issue, I would ding the blue book price for that. The "magic price" seems to be between wholesale (always to low unless trading), and dealer recommended (always way to high). Private party plus negotiation on your part should find that "magic price."
Accessories, do not count for anything on a 10 year old machine. Don't pay for them. Having owned three different Spyders with the 1330 engine, I recommend that model over the 998. My opinion only, on that.
Good luck on your hunt for that perfect Spyder.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 12-24-2023 at 03:19 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Originally Posted by ARtraveler
We bought a new 2011 A & C (RT with the audio and convenience package) new in 2012. I bought this one for Linda. We kept it until 2019 when I traded it off for a new 2019 F3L. it had over 40K trouble free miles. In its lifetime, it needed only oil changes, filters, and tires. It never broke down on us or gave us any problems. The person that bought it from the dealer got a really good used RT.
There are a couple downsides, compared to a newer model. It is a five speed and comes with the 998 engine. IMO, much peppier than the 1330's. Maintenance, per the schedule (avoid the valve check services at all costs). They are not needed, and will cost an additional $1,500 to perform by a dealer. Parts and repairs today on a 10 year old machine COULD be an issue. Dealers are now pulling the "we don't work on old machines tactic." I would check into this in your area before taking a bite.
Price seems way too high. I recommend going to NADA and KBB to check the blue books in your area. I note they also want to pass off a trailer. They are good trailers, but command a very high price. I am guessing they want $3K for the trailer a $12K for the bike. Considering the engine is not made any longer, and service and parts may be an issue, I would ding the blue book price for that. The "magic price" seems to be between wholesale (always to low unless trading), and dealer recommended (always way to high). Private party plus negotiation on your part should find that "magic price."
Accessories, do not count for anything on a 10 year old machine. Don't pay for them. Having owned three different Spyders with the 1330 engine, I recommend that model over the 998. My opinion only, on that.
Good luck on your hunt for that perfect Spyder.
he is now selling it for $7,000 for the bike and trailer.....
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-24-2023 at 06:57 PM.
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ChrisW
Bike & 622 trailer $7k more reasonable. The 622 is great trailer & getting harder to find. Worth asking if has matching key core (there were cores available with earlier RT’s to fit the 622 not available for the freedom trailer)
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Originally Posted by ChrisW
he is now selling it for $7,000 for the bike and trailer.....
If the bike is in good mechanical condition, that is a really, really, really, good price. Tough decision here.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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For the $7,000 price, that is a good deal. The trailer alone is worth at least $2500. That puts the price of the spyder at only $4500. Unless it has been abused, or has high milage, that is a good deal. Go for it if the test ride goes ok.
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Originally Posted by blacklightning
For the $7,000 price, that is a good deal. The trailer alone is worth at least $2500. That puts the price of the spyder at only $4500. Unless it has been abused, or has high milage, that is a good deal. Go for it if the test ride goes ok.
Well it has 34,000 + miles on it, $7,500 and some stickers on it, needs some work
The Wife's 2014 RTS SE6
New tires: Back, KUMHO ECSTA 225/50 R15 (24psi) @ 9,380 miles, Fronts, KUMHO SOLUS KH16 175/55 R15 (20 psi) @ 9,421 miles
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Very Active Member
For me, knowing that it has maybe hauled that trailer around for some or most of those miles, I guess I would really want to ride it and see how it runs down the road and shifts up and down through the gears. It's an older ride and with parts and finding someone to work on it, unless you're going turn wrenches on the old girl! It is a good price for what you're getting, but it is a machine, and machines break down. Good luck in your soul searching!
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Originally Posted by ChrisW
Well it needs some work
~~~exactly what work needs to be done?, asking for a friend
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2021 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
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It is probably going to need a coolant change and a brake fluid change, as they may not have been done in a while, but that could be true of any year Spyder that has been sitting a lot. If you are up to doing that yourself, you will save a ton of money. If they haven't been changed I would also suggest plugs and wires from BajaRon. The OEM wires are fragile and break down due to age, heat, and being handled. At 35,000 it has had at least one front tire change, and 2 or 3 rears if they stayed with Kendas. Front brakes will be on their second set of pads and the 3rd and close to needing a replace on the rear. Can you get the service records on these items from the seller? If you can it may save you some money, otherwise you will want to budget that cost into your purchase. What about trailer tires and axle service. If those are OEM tires, they are over 10 years old.
I don't want to discourage you from buying an older machine, I love my V-Twin and it is pushing 79,000 miles. I also do almost any service it needs and if I needed one, I would buy a low mileage V-Twin in a heartbeat. I find them fun, fast, and reliable. Short service intervals and lower range are the big drawbacks to some, but I am ready for a break after 2-2.5 hrs. anyway. I do my own oil changes at 4500 miles and that is a stretch for me. On all my previous motorcycles I did them every 3000. Goodluck to you on whatever your choice and post some pictures of whatever you get.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-28-2023 at 10:48 AM.
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