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Worth it to upgrade 2012 RTL?
I just bought my current one, and I know I will be riding it for a bit, but I am really loving it and I know I will be wanting a newer one before too long.
So, if some of you have ridden or owned both, please talk me into it or out of it.
Why is it worth it to get a late model year RT, or are the old ones better in some ways?
Money is not really the issue, but I want to get a good value for my money.
2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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I have owned a 2012 RTL (19,000 miles) and upgraded to a new 2014 RTL (53,000 miles) purchased new in 2015. I decided to upgrade after I did a test ride on a 2014. As soon as I moved from a parked-position I could tell the 1330 engine was a vast improvement. I thoroughly enjoyed riding my 2012 but felt that the 2012 with its 998 - 5 speed engine was always working hard to maintain its speed due to having to shift at high RPMS. Once I completed the test-ride I found the 2014 was not working as hard, the ride and shifting was smoother and acceleration was quicker, it also seemed to have more power available when needed. Maintenance is easier with a 2014 SE6 since it is required once every 9,300 miles or once a year. The 2012 required me to change the oil 3 times a year, while the 2014 only once a year. So I changed the oil 6 times in 3 years while I have changing the oil in the 2014 7 times in 7 years, saved some time and money with the 2014 which equals more riding time. Oh, and you will find the 2012 rides very hot, you'll find the heat mostly on your right foot, but under the seat gets very hot as well. The 2014 has fans that reverse the flow of heat when needed, so a cooler ride for you.
All that being said, you will still enjoy the ride the 2012 gives you and many riders here will never leave their 998's behind.
Ride Safe!
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Good information, thanks. I was wondering what year they changed the engine.
2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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I'm still with my 2010. I've worked most of the bugs out of it, having owned it for the last 5 years. Still not perfect, but it runs fine enough for me. Would I like to get one with the 3, sure, but it's not worth the extra cost. If money is not an issue and you can find one, then go for it. You will get top dollar for your 2012, but you will also pay top dollar for a newer one and inventory is tight. Just the times we are in right now.
2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)
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It all depends. And that is always going to be the case. The 998 is a great motor. People think it is working hard because it has to rev to make HP. But that is the way it was engineered. The only downside of revving the 998 is that it bothers some. Once you get over that issue. You're good to go. The 1330 moves the Spyder in a more relaxed manner. But I'm not so sure the 1330 is faster than the 998.
In any case. The best thing to do is to test ride what you think you'd like to move to. Looking at used isn't a bad idea.
Good luck!
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Personally would look for 14-17 not a fan of the dash change in18 & mostly the problems reported with BRP connect.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
It all depends. And that is always going to be the case. The 998 is a great motor. People think it is working hard because it has to rev to make HP. But that is the way it was engineered. The only downside of revving the 998 is that it bothers some. Once you get over that issue. You're good to go. The 1330 moves the Spyder in a more relaxed manner. But I'm not so sure the 1330 is faster than the 998.
In any case. The best thing to do is to test ride what you think you'd like to move to. Looking at used isn't a bad idea.
Good luck!
Well I've " drag raced " two spyders with both engines and the 1330 ( RT ) was also impressive ..... JMHO .... Mike
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Well I've " drag raced " two spyders with both engines and the 1330 ( RT ) was also impressive ..... JMHO .... Mike
The 1330, being about 35% more displacement, should be faster. I've drag raced my 998. But never a 1330. I would like to compare them side by side some day just out of curiosity. To go fast on the 998, it does feel like it has to be flogged. But it was specifically designed to be flogged. So, it's not really an issue. That's the only point I was getting at.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
The 1330, being about 35% more displacement, should be faster. I've drag raced my 998. But never a 1330. I would like to compare them side by side some day just out of curiosity. To go fast on the 998, it does feel like it has to be flogged. But it was specifically designed to be flogged. So, it's not really an issue. That's the only point I was getting at.
At the two Spyderfest events that I was able to use the Drag track.... the Spyders were put in separate classes ( logical ) .... however during the 2 hour " test & tune " period you went against anyone who came to the line. My 1330 was quite competitive against the V-twin. I had a lot of races with " Seth-O " and " Yazz ", and they both had V-twins ......of course the Driver is the variable !!! .... Mike
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Revving the engine is definitely not a problem for me. In fact, I love doing it.
If the main thing is the engine, I might want to stick with what I have.
2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
The 1330, being about 35% more displacement, should be faster. I've drag raced my 998. But never a 1330. I would like to compare them side by side some day just out of curiosity. To go fast on the 998, it does feel like it has to be flogged. But it was specifically designed to be flogged. So, it's not really an issue. That's the only point I was getting at.
I started out with a 2014 RT (1330), and picked up a 2012 RSS at the same time. I didn't really compare those 2 because of the weight difference. Then I bought a 2016 F3T and was impressed. But I still thought the 2012 RSS felt faster. I thought it was faster until I actually got a chance to race one of my buddies at VIR on his 2015 RSS. He is a very aggressive rider and on every straight, I was able to reel him in on my F3T. My bike was 100% stock, and he had just exhaust and a juice box (or some sort of electronic box) on his. I still miss my 2012 RSS though.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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I test rode a 2010 before buying the '14. For me, having to wind the engine to 5k+ all the time just felt kind of frantic. Might be ok for a sportier ride, but I prefer the more relaxed feel of the 1330 for something like the RT.
2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Tonylmiller
I just bought my current one, and I know I will be riding it for a bit, but I am really loving it and I know I will be wanting a newer one before too long.
So, if some of you have ridden or owned both, please talk me into it or out of it.
Why is it worth it to get a late model year RT, or are the old ones better in some ways?
Money is not really the issue, but I want to get a good value for my money.
I've owned a 2010, 2014 and now a 2020.
If you can hold out, I'd suggest getting a 2020 in a few years when the used prices will be lower.
The 1330 engine upgrade in 2014 was a major generational upgrade.
In 2020, the suspension, comfort and storage upgrades are another major generational upgrade still.
As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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I've owned a 2012 RT and now a 2016 RTS. It's probably in what's left of my brain that the 12 seemed to be zippier. I had to be careful from a dead stop with the 12 cus I would burn the tire. Of course it's my thoughts and mine only.
2005 Roadtrek Chevy 210P
2020 RT Limited-Chalk White SE6
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I definitely don't mind revving the engine. That is actually a bonus for me.
2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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What are you looking for that the 2012 doesn't give you? Or what do you hope to gain from a new model? I would like a new Spyder just to go up in Years and down in miles,but the bank isn't going to allow that for now. Maybe once the truck is paid for
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
What are you looking for that the 2012 doesn't give you? Or what do you hope to gain from a new model? I would like a new Spyder just to go up in Years and down in miles,but the bank isn't going to allow that for now. Maybe once the truck is paid for
Yes, that is what I'm trying to find out from people who have owned both. Newer would be nicer, but not worth 2 - 3 times the cost at the moment. If the main thing is the engine, I do not mind the 2012 engine at all. I do not even consider it a weakness.
2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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Originally Posted by Tonylmiller
Yes, that is what I'm trying to find out from people who have owned both. Newer would be nicer, but not worth 2 - 3 times the cost at the moment. If the main thing is the engine, I do not mind the 2012 engine at all. I do not even consider it a weakness.
2012 " V-twin " .... BRP stopped using this engine in 2016 (?) .... so how many years from now do you think Parts will still be available. ???? .... Mike
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I have had four of the 990/998 engine and three 1330's. There are pros and cons to each version. The bottom line, the three cylinders have less required maintenance and get about 10 mpg more. Cost is relative. A used 2014 Spyder (first year of the 1330), is now going for 10K to 12K. I have seen them advertised here for 14k and up....but that has to do with the supply demand thing. I would not be a buyer at that price.
BK is right about parts. We traded off our 2011 in 2019. Never had any issues with it so parts to fix were never an issue for us.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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I have owned a 2012 RTS-SE5( my first spyder) It had the 998 engine, I only had it for 2 years.
I took a test ride on a 2014 RTS-SE6 ( which is my current spyder). Why I bought a 2014 RTS-SE6 was the comfort,and the low maintenance, and the bigger engine, ( 1330 Ace Engine) qutier engine, and all the major upgrades they did. It has a 1200 Watt Alternator. I have about 29,000 miles on my current spyder.
Deanna
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2012 Blue Spyder RT Limited
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Originally Posted by ThreeWheels
I've owned a 2010, 2014 and now a 2020.
If you can hold out, I'd suggest getting a 2020 in a few years when the used prices will be lower.
The 1330 engine upgrade in 2014 was a major generational upgrade.
In 2020, the suspension, comfort and storage upgrades are another major generational upgrade still.
As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
I've owned the same three years, and completely agree with you. My 2010 had issues, but as I understand it the 2012 was significantly improved. Still, the biggest upgrade was the 2014 and I wouldn't every buy anything earlier than that at this point in time - and if one can afford a 2020+ I'm a fan of the smaller changes and the new body design. Just skip the BRP connect features, and the dash isn't an issue.
2020 RT Limited in the ultra cool Deep Marsala Dark edition.
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Heck, I'll sell you mine cheap. I'm looking for a nice F3 with a manual trans.
2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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Originally Posted by Tonylmiller
I would think parts for the engine would be available for a few more years, and I hope I don't need any.
With 4,000 miles, I hope the engine lasts for quite a few more years.
And the more I ride it the more I like it.
I've got customers with well over 100k on the original engine and clutch. If you take care of them, they will last a very long time. I don't mean baby them. I mean regular maintenance. I think they actually last longer if you ride them a bit hard. Wring them out once in a while.
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