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  1. #1
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    Default oil leak in airbox

    I have not brought my spder in as yet for the oil leaking in the airbox. I am not mechanically inclinded to do this catch can or any other mechanical maintenance for that matter...Does anyone know what BRP's stand on this issue since it is a common problem. If people are doing their own mods to solve this, I guess they don't have a solution. Am I correct? So if BRP or Dealer doesn't have a fix, wondering what my best options would be for this fix. Hopefully when I briing it in, they will have a solution.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SE5spyder View Post
    I have not brought my spder in as yet for the oil leaking in the airbox. I am not mechanically inclinded to do this catch can or any other mechanical maintenance for that matter...Does anyone know what BRP's stand on this issue since it is a common problem. If people are doing their own mods to solve this, I guess they don't have a solution. Am I correct? So if BRP or Dealer doesn't have a fix, wondering what my best options would be for this fix. Hopefully when I briing it in, they will have a solution.
    Your assessment is on the money. Best medicine outside of a modification is to check the oil using the correct procedure, and keep the level at or below hafway between the max and min marks...and to regularly remove the Tupperware and use a rag to clean up any oil inside or outside the airbox. BRP considers this to be "normal".

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    BRP considers this to be "normal".
    actually the Tech at my dealer said when he goes to BRP mechanics classes (goes often) they talk about the oil issue allot and are trying to come up with a viable solution.

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    Scotty's advice above is a viable solution.

    I keep my oil level BELOW the bottom of the stick and it minimizes the problem.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike3069 View Post
    Scotty's advice above is a viable solution.

    I keep my oil level BELOW the bottom of the stick and it minimizes the problem.
    that would be great if it worked for everyone. some still have a problem doing that ......like me

  6. #6
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    Default Oil from the airbox ending up on cowl

    Same problem here. About 2500 miles on 2008 SM5. Several weeks ago noticed what looked like oil on left black cowl. Was greenish in color so I wiped it away thinking I hit some big bug while riding. Today I noticed more oil in the same place and wiped it away with a rag. It was more toffee colored like fresh oil. I had the oil changed several hundred miles ago. Decided to remove the left cowling and found oil sprayed on the inside of the yellow panel and along the top where it mates with the "gas tank" cover. Removed the left black side panel and checked for oil. The only thing obvious was a small indication of oil leaking from the airbox seals. All the clips were tight and there we no other areas of oil spillage. Wiped the side of the airbox and panels are re-assembled. Will check again in a few miles.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutus450 View Post
    that would be great if it worked for everyone. some still have a problem doing that ......like me
    At 6 hundred miles i had oil in my air box. I pulled the tube from the crankcase to the airbox put a pice of filter material in the tube put it back on, 9.5 thousand miles now no oil in my air box. I fill the oil right to the top line.

  8. #8
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    Default ??? Please!

    What kind of filter material and how much did you put in the tube? If this works as you say it would be a good clean fix...

  9. #9
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    Default you might consider...

    using one of the warmart plastic fuel filters, 2 to 3 bucks, in the line. Just make sure you have the arrow point toward the air box. The filter media in this filter should stop the oil going up but the fumes can continue to the airbox to be burned. The oil should drain back to the crank case. I use the catch can on two units. But I am going to try this method next week on the third unit. I'll post if it works. / Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by watchman View Post
    What kind of filter material and how much did you put in the tube? If this works as you say it would be a good clean fix...
    There's a thread on this someware, I just don't know how to get to it.
    I used a plastic sponge i had gotten in a cleaning kit years ago from a company called= KOZAK. It realy isn't a sponge it does'nt absorb liquids but fume's pass though it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by krb1945 View Post
    using one of the warmart plastic fuel filters, 2 to 3 bucks, in the line. Just make sure you have the arrow point toward the air box. The filter media in this filter should stop the oil going up but the fumes can continue to the airbox to be burned. The oil should drain back to the crank case. I use the catch can on two units. But I am going to try this method next week on the third unit. I'll post if it works. / Ken

    to me - that filter media is meant for fuel, not oil or air, and it would clog up and not allow proper air flow

  12. #12
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    I realize people have made thier own mods to "fix" this issue, but bottom line is it is just a pisspoor design by Can-am. I have over 30 years of motorcycle riding experience and this is the first vehicle that I have purchased that came with its own oil leak, from the factory. Sorry BRP, I realize you guys read these posts, but facts are facts. The full mark means that is where the oil should be when full. ANYTHING below that means it is low on oil.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave01 View Post
    I realize people have made thier own mods to "fix" this issue, but bottom line is it is just a pisspoor design by Can-am. I have over 30 years of motorcycle riding experience and this is the first vehicle that I have purchased that came with its own oil leak, from the factory. Sorry BRP, I realize you guys read these posts, but facts are facts. The full mark means that is where the oil should be when full. ANYTHING below that means it is low on oil.


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    Default yes it ...

    could be a better design but is isn't right now. So in the interim we, riders, will test and eventually come up with a good design.

    One reason it gets so much oil up there is due to the short crank case vent hose and the amount of vacuum drawn on the air box. A possible solution might be a longer hose with a slanted up "swoop", got that from the old MASH program. This might possibly allow gravity to pull the oil back to the CC, crank case. But then again the vacuum may be strong enough to pull it anyway. If that is the case would the next item be ... the installation of a PCV valve? I'm certain a mechanic like Scotty could help us out with this idea. What say you, Scotty? Would this help some?
    Last edited by krb1945; 11-08-2009 at 09:50 AM.

  15. #15
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    Hey guys try a filter in the crankcase tube, What do you have to lose?,
    15 minute's of your time. See my post's on this thread, I'm not computer savvy, there are earlier post's on this with pictures and all. I just don't know how to find them.

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    Carlo says BRP is aware of this issue and they're working on it.
    I've got Lamont's fix in place, yields about 1/4 in of oil in the
    plastic bowl per 200 miles.
    2015 F3 SE6 , White - The fastest color!

  17. #17
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    Default Photo of one way to...

    vent the case, burn case fumes and keep some of the oil out of the box. Note I did not say keep all the oil out of the box. I used this method on her SE5 and as you can see there is oil in the tube loop going to the air box and in the catch can. This is the amount of oil on an 09 SE after a 300 mile ride with the oil on the full mark. I suspect there would not be as much if it were below the full mark.

    I intend to make the loop bigger and add it to the SM5 which now uses an air filter on the catch can. This is a collaboration of ideas I have seen on this forum. Credit to Lamont, Nancy Toy, AtaDude and many others, sorry fellows my remember 'er just doesn't remember all the names. Getting old is the pits in my opinion but it sure beats the alternative. /Ken
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by krb1945 View Post
    vent the case, burn case fumes and keep some of the oil out of the box. Note I did not say keep all the oil out of the box. I used this method on her SE5 and as you can see there is oil in the tube loop going to the air box and in the catch can. This is the amount of oil on an 09 SE after a 300 mile ride with the oil on the full mark. I suspect there would not be as much if it were below the full mark.

    I intend to make the loop bigger and add it to the SM5 which now uses an air filter on the catch can. This is a collaboration of ideas I have seen on this forum. Credit to Lamont, Nancy Toy, AtaDude and many others, sorry fellows my remember 'er just doesn't remember all the names. Getting old is the pits in my opinion but it sure beats the alternative. /Ken

    Just curious, why the loop and not the filter?

  19. #19
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    so the fumes go in airbox and get burned

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    Quote Originally Posted by brutus450 View Post
    so the fumes go in airbox and get burned

    Okay, so it's an environmental thing. I have the same setup as you. I just thought there was some benefit when using the loop other than being green.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    Okay, so it's an environmental thing. I have the same setup as you. I just thought there was some benefit when using the loop other than being green.
    other benefit is that you dont smell the fumes

  22. #22
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    Default I use the loop...

    to catch some of the oil that gets by the "catch can". If I had a little better picture you would see some oil in the bottom of the loop and in the catch can. I'm testing various things so I don't smell the fumes and don't have an air box full of oil to clean. So far I've reduced the oil a substantial amount. That's why I intend to use a longer tube with a lower bottom of the loop. The more up length you have the less oil gets to the air box.

    I'm still searching for a gas tank screen. If I can ever find one to test. I believe it will work better getting the gas fumes to the air box without the oil passing through. And best of all we shouldn't need a catch can or long loop hose. /Ken

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by watchman View Post
    What kind of filter material and how much did you put in the tube? If this works as you say it would be a good clean fix...
    Like Yogi said= You can see a lot just by observing.
    Go to a post by SABUNIM5, page #13 Post#3 Oil leak.
    08/03/09. It took me awhile to find this post, Hope it helps.
    I've used a similar material for over 8+ thosand miles. No oil in the box.

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