I have disconnected the battery for a couple hours for a good reboot. I'd like to take a look to see if it's something simple, like a wire that's come off, if I can... before attempting to get it fixed by the dealer. TIA
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:28 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough.
After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine.
Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process.
Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough.
After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine.
Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process.
Over to you!
Thanks yes. I ran it for some #days & 400+ miles when this showed. This is what is confusing, it was running fine 'til the limp home. Being the SE5, I have experienced actual low oil shifting problems & those happened without any codes or lights occurring. So it's gotta be the sensor or connections telling the computer the wrong info.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:30 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Oil pressure switch is on the right side of engine, bottom side on clutch housing. Close to the bottom radiator hose elbow.
thank you was afraid under air box or somewhere less accessible.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Check resistance between sensor and ground. It switches between fully opened and fully closed after couple seconds (2s-3s) after start. No change in resistance is a faulty sensor.
Finally got to the shop 1/5/21 & I got the update today! It’s not the sensor! There's no oil pressure!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:32 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way, also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed. Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure. I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-20-2022 at 05:44 PM.
Reason: spaces after punctiation....
Are you sure sensor is ok? This would mean oil pump is damaged.
Did they check oil pressure with gauge?
It should be at least 1,5bar when on idle.
I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.
Originally Posted by Brad0414
I had that on a 2015 F3 - blown motor. The plastic gear in the oil pump broke apart. BRP replaced the motor under warranty.
Unfortunately, no warranty left here & this is the 998 motor with only 66k miles
Originally Posted by spyder01
I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way,also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed.Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure.I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.
Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:35 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.
Unfortunately, no warranty left here & this is the 998 motor with only 66k miles
Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)
good luck sorry to hear.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:35 AM.
Well, my thought is, it was running fine before it went to the shop. Now it isn't running fine after getting it back
from the shop. Consider the common theme: "the shop". And if a guy working on it screwed up, he may, or may
not, own up to his mistake. But I would certainly think the problem lies with the shop.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 03:37 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
So sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue.
At least you know the problem. Is this tied into the trouble you had this past summer?
Good luck with the repairs.
David C
2016 F3T
DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
Battery tender cable
Rear IPS Pack Rack
So sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue.
At least you know the problem. Is this tied into the trouble you had this past summer?
Good luck with the repairs.
Thank you & still unknown
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Not that it matters since someone else is accomplishing the repairs, the two gears are about $40 total. Not sure if the pump pickup screen is accessible from the clutch cover side or requires splitting the center case. If the pickup screen can be washed, either by removal or back flushing, that should have caught the debris.
We know one gear is plastic, ideally both are. If so, the debris is unlikely to mechanically harm the gearbox and oil to the engine is filtered and will capture it.
Hopefully a couple gears, quick cleaning of the pickup screen, reassemble and go. Ideally the nanny saved the motor and when they drained the oil, there is no indications of running with zero oil pressure.
Others with Spyders using the same engine should replace those inexpensive drive and driven gears before failure. Simply good preventative maintenance.
14 and 16 are the two gears, 18 is the pick up screen
Bummed about current situation had a thought:
Understand the drain plugs have magnetic tips to catch shavings and pieces. However only get seen possibly at oil change intervals, if same could be picked up by dip stick that is viewed more often, hopefully Leading to early discovery of potentially serious conditions. Believe might be more acceptable as dipsticks don’t snake through straw like tubes as most engines. What y’all Motörhead’s think ? Please
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Update got it back yesterday 3/11 (65days in shop) repaired/replaced parts list: Oil pumps & clutch, hydra piston & disk kit, oil pressure switch, pump housing, pump shaft. Ride home was hiccup free, aside from little adjustments getting reacquainted with the saddle. but back to 3
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO