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2010 RT has trouble holding a straight line
Greetings from Washougal, Washington!
I'm a little past the 1 year mark and about 6,000 miles of road time with my 2010 RT SM5.
One thing I've recently noticed is that she bobbles around a bit to the left and right when on a flat straightaway. It'll be just fine for 3/4 mile or so, then the front end seemingly hops to the right about 4 inches and I have to correct. What's odd, is that this little handling oddity was not an issue for most of my time of getting acquainted with the Spyder this year. This symptom seems to have appeared rather suddenly.
The previous owner had only put 2700 miles on it so she sat a lot more than she's been ridden. The OD is still well under 10K miles.
I'm still running the stock tires with slightly lower PSI than the placard calls out (per my research on this forum) but that was an adjustment I made within the first few weeks of ownership. I could immediately feel the handling difference by backing down from this apparent state of overinflation that required pretty constant correction. What I'm experiencing now is different. It's more intermittent but also a more pronounced steering input is needed to get back on heading.
I have 20+ years of sport-touring experience on two-wheelers. I'm not a white knuckled, up tight rider that has to hold a laser-straight line. I take an easy grip on the bars and let the bike and the contour of the road do most of the work.
Has something related to the steering linkage 'broken in' and some sort of tune-up is needed? This is my first 3 wheeled anything so I'm not acquainted with what being out of toe feels like. Is this a job for the coveted laser alignment procedure or could the cause be something else entirely?
Thanks in advance,
David
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David in Wa.
2019 Can-Am Spyder RTL SE6
"The Ride is the reason. The destination is just the excuse."
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Very Active Member
It would certainly be good to have the front end checked out. It could be a tie rod or ball joint. The sway bar links should also be checked. Also have the rear wheel area checked out. Sounds like something is loose.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Upcoaster
Greetings from Washougal, Washington!
I'm a little past the 1 year mark and about 6,000 miles of road time with my 2010 RT SM5.
One thing I've recently noticed is that she bobbles around a bit to the left and right when on a flat straightaway. It'll be just fine for 3/4 mile or so, then the front end seemingly hops to the right about 4 inches and I have to correct. What's odd, is that this little handling oddity was not an issue for most of my time of getting acquainted with the Spyder this year. This symptom seems to have appeared rather suddenly.
The previous owner had only put 2700 miles on it so she sat a lot more than she's been ridden. The OD is still well under 10K miles.
I'm still running the stock tires with slightly lower PSI than the placard calls out (per my research on this forum) but that was an adjustment I made within the first few weeks of ownership. I could immediately feel the handling difference by backing down from this apparent state of overinflation that required pretty constant correction. What I'm experiencing now is different. It's more intermittent but also a more pronounced steering input is needed to get back on heading.
I have 20+ years of sport-touring experience on two-wheelers. I'm not a white knuckled, up tight rider that has to hold a laser-straight line. I take an easy grip on the bars and let the bike and the contour of the road do most of the work.
Has something related to the steering linkage 'broken in' and some sort of tune-up is needed? This is my first 3 wheeled anything so I'm not acquainted with what being out of toe feels like. Is this a job for the coveted laser alignment procedure or could the cause be something else entirely?
Thanks in advance,
David
I was going to say, the Kenda tires are defect prone and might have a broken belt ( in tire )…. but you say it's intermittent, so that's not the issue ….. Kenda's NEED the higher PSI's as stated by BRP.... so lowering the pressures isn't a good idea …. I agree checking for loose or damaged suspension parts is a good idea, however any issues there wouldn't be " intermittent ". You also mentioned STEERING linkage ….. if that is an issue - it also wouldn't be intermittent...… this all leads me to think " Road surface changes " …. I have over 100,000 mi on three spyders, and I have noticed that the TEXTURE of the road surface can be quite noticeable, I believe it's light weight makes this more noticeable …... good luck , keep us posted on your progress ….. Mike
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Could one of the front shock dampers be bad and it's just running on spring. Then you get the right bump/load to compress enough that the rebound sends a shimmy through the system?
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RT-S PE#0412
I currently own a 2010 RT, having not owned one previous, didn't have much to compare with. Did find when I upgraded the shocks it was no longer a chore to ride in the twists. Back in 2010 Weak front shocks was one feature we all thought was lacking, the 2011's and 2012's each year BRP improved the shocks. One other thing I did was the laser alignment. This was able to show me that it was not aligned properly, my first set of front tires also confirmed this by how they wore. I run with between 16-17 lbs in the front. Since your issue is intermittent probably do what Highwayman2013 suggested.
Let us know what you found out.
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Originally Posted by TicketBait
I currently own a 2010 RT, having not owned one previous, didn't have much to compare with. Did find when I upgraded the shocks it was no longer a chore to ride in the twists. Back in 2010 Weak front shocks was one feature we all thought was lacking, the 2011's and 2012's each year BRP improved the shocks. One other thing I did was the laser alignment. This was able to show me that it was not aligned properly, my first set of front tires also confirmed this by how they wore. I run with between 16-17 lbs in the front. Since your issue is intermittent probably do what Highwayman2013 suggested.
Let us know what you found out.
i have had ball joints do this symptom.they can pop in and out of joint under load and cornering changing the steering settings.the joints are a weak spot for sure.
still may be a kenda.given enough heat after the intial riding a internal fault may cause casing shift.if you can get a pair of rims and tyres off someone to borrow and try that would be a easy test.or thrown the kenda away and put proper tyres on .
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Very Active Member
First thing is get a laser alignment done. After that I suspect the tires. With 9 years age on them they may have deteriorated. If it's intermittent then either of these could cause the problems you're encountering by staying stable until some road irregularity triggers them.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by TicketBait
I currently own a 2010 RT, having not owned one previous, didn't have much to compare with. Did find when I upgraded the shocks it was no longer a chore to ride in the twists. Back in 2010 Weak front shocks was one feature we all thought was lacking, the 2011's and 2012's each year BRP improved the shocks. One other thing I did was the laser alignment. This was able to show me that it was not aligned properly, my first set of front tires also confirmed this by how they wore. I run with between 16-17 lbs in the front. Since your issue is intermittent probably do what Highwayman2013 suggested.
Let us know what you found out.
I replaced both front shock on my 2009 GS Se5. The steering improvement was 'outa sight'. Front pressures at 17PSI works well for me too.
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Thanks for the input everyone. Not exactly optimal riding season just now here in Washington state. If there's a break in the weather, I'll try and get it in somewhere for a look-see. Will let you know how it turns out.
David
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David in Wa.
2019 Can-Am Spyder RTL SE6
"The Ride is the reason. The destination is just the excuse."
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Active Member
I would change the tires to a better brand and get that laser alignment.That will go a long way to making it feel better but IMHO its never going to track like a new car or feel rock steady in a turn.The thing about these Spyders is you really have to drive them,its a little bit of work to really hustle them around a set of mountain switchhbacks and even on straight roads you need to pay attention.Thats what makes them so much fun.
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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If those are original tires, then start by replacing them. If you still have a problem, get an alignment done by a qualified shop. 9000 miles is nothing for these machines and you should not be experiencing mechanical failure unless it's been abused.
2014 RTL Platinum
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I am in Yuma Arizona at this time and some had some one try to push me off the road, our tires made contact and am wanting to have a laser alignment done, I can not find a place that does it, can someone tell me the closest place and average price, Thanks in advance
g
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Very Active Member
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RT-S PE#0027
One of the best Spyder Technicians in the country is 15 minutes away from you at Pro Caliber Motorsports - 10703 NE Fourth Plain Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98662. (360) 892-3030
Tell them you want Shawn Smoaks to work on it. He is an expert at laser alignments on Spyders and has a huge following on youtube. Class Act. https://www.youtube.com/user/TheSmoaks/videos
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RT-S PE#0412
So "Upcoaster/ David" has not been back on the forum in a month, so I will pm him to see where he is at.
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