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Fault Code Reset
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,
That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!
But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cambello
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,
That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!
But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
When you turn off the key for 30 seconds the fault codes will go from active to occurred and will not be visible when you press the key combo. The faults are still visible to the dealer when he plugs it into BUDS. When you turn on the key if the fault is still present the fault code will reappear. So just because you made them disappear does not mean you fixed anything. You need to find the reason for the fault and fix it.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
There are two types of fault codes.
Active codes and stored codes.
The three fingered BRP salute only retrieves active codes.
There really is no way to clear an active code, it remains visible as long as the condition exists that caused the code to be thrown and the dcm is powered up.
Stored codes are codes that have been thrown but are no longer active and can only be retrieved by BUDS.
You beat me Roger you must type faster than me!!!
2018 F3 LIMITED
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hummmm
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
I can type twice as fast I think.
not always a benefit.
it just seems funny guys that the fault light was on every time I started the machine and the only time it cleared was when I gave the can am salute..oh well back to the drawing board.
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What you are seeing is a warning icon, not the fault itself. There can be many causes. The active fault codes can be called up on the RT by pressing MODE, SET, and the turn signal cancel simultaneously. The fault codes will be alphanumerically diplayed on the screen when you release the buttons. You can look in a shop manual to interpret the codes, or someone here can tell you what they mean. The dealer can see the occurred fault codes and the fault code history via BUDS. It would be best to give yours a visit, but if you tell us the fault codes we can try to point you toward a reason.
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Could it have been a light for the oil pressure; that hadn't yet had a chance to get up to full strength?
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lights
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Originally Posted by Cambello
The lights I'm getting are the same old ones, Engine light, DPS light with orange handlebars, ABS light flashed on, VSS light. these keep on coming on when ever I either go over a bump or apply the brake and run the accelerator, I've cleaned the battery terminals, but the battery is getting on 4 years old so maybe thats the first place to start. I've checked the condition and i'm getting 12v. I've checked the log book and it's had 2 DPS units fitted, which is quite a lot in 4 years if you ask me. I've also had it sending me into Limp Mode.
So I'm really at a loss now.
Question, how long are you applying the brake while accelerating? The Spyder can tolerate a short duration of trail barking, but it doesn't like having the brake pedal so much as touched while the throttle is engaged. That does result in cascading warnings or limp mode. Try to be very aware. If your foot is nowhere near the brake and it happens, look elsewhere. The dealer can help determine if this is the problem through the fault code history.
What you are describing could also be a low or a bad battery, or more likely loose connections. Also check the rear frame ground on pre-2013 Spyders. If it is loose it is a bear to tighten, but that could cause the issue. So could a loose front frame ground, which is harder to access. Also check the brake fluid level. Usually that just results in a brake failyre warning, but it can trigger VSS and DPS faults.
For the best answers, bring up the actual fault codes using the procedure above. That may help us pinpoint the answer.
Last edited by NancysToy; 03-04-2014 at 06:23 PM.
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great forum
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Question, how long are you applying the brake while accelerating? The Spyder can tolerate a short duration of trail barking, but it doesn't like having the brake pedal so much as touched while the throttle is engaged. That does result in cascading warnings or limp mode. Try to be very aware. If your foot is nowhere near the brake and it happens, look elsewhere. The dealer can help determine if this is the problem through the fault code history.
What you are describing could also be a low or a bad battery, or more likely loose connections. Also check the rear frame ground on pre-2013 Spyders. If it is loose it is a bear to tighten, but that could cause the issue. So could a loose front frame ground, which is harder to access. Also check the brake fluid level. Usually that just results in a brake failyre warning, but it can trigger VSS and DPS faults.
For the best answers, bring up the actal fault codes using the procedure above. That may help us pinpoint the answer.
What a great forum this is.........just bought myself a new battery, but funny you should mention the brake fluid, ive noticed the peddle being a bit soft, so that could be low level of brake fluid or I am imaging worn brake pads that in turn make the level drop! I was thinking of putting a stronger spring on the brake. I had most of the back panels off last weekend so im getting to know this baby very quickly. Thanks again....
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I have fault code P0504
Originally Posted by NancysToy
What you are seeing is a warning icon, not the fault itself. There can be many causes. The active fault codes can be called up on the RT by pressing MODE, SET, and the turn signal cancel simultaneously. The fault codes will be alphanumerically diplayed on the screen when you release the buttons. You can look in a shop manual to interpret the codes, or someone here can tell you what they mean. The dealer can see the occurred fault codes and the fault code history via BUDS. It would be best to give yours a visit, but if you tell us the fault codes we can try to point you toward a reason.
okay took the bike down to a local shop who does not have buds, I checked all levels of fluids, he did minor adjustment to brake cable but it still showing the error, is there a way to clear the error, or would you advise a trip to a dealership, I have read at times the park brake switch can stick/be faulty
Any help appreciated
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by happygrin
okay took the bike down to a local shop who does not have buds, I checked all levels of fluids, he did minor adjustment to brake cable but it still showing the error, is there a way to clear the error, or would you advise a trip to a dealership, I have read at times the park brake switch can stick/be faulty
Any help appreciated
It has nothing to do with the parking brake. So you are looking in the wrong place. I will guess you do not have brake lights either. So you have a blown fuse or a defective brake light switch. Whatever the problem is. The fault will clear itself when problem is fixed.
So first thing to do is check if you have brake lights everytime you press the brake pedal.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by billybovine
It has nothing to do with the parking brake. So you are looking in the wrong place. I will guess you do not have brake lights either. So you have a blown fuse or a defective brake light switch. Whatever the problem is. The fault will clear itself when problem is fixed.
So first thing to do is check if you have brake lights everytime you press the brake pedal.
All brake lights are working, and fuse looks fine
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Originally Posted by Cambello
it just seems funny guys that the fault light was on every time I started the machine and the only time it cleared was when I gave the can am salute..oh well back to the drawing board.
To clarify the code will not be present if it is no longer active. If you shut off the Spyder with a code on the screen and turn the bike back on and it is gone, then it is no longer active. If you turn it off and back on and the code is there then you've got issues as in an active code.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by happygrin
All brake lights are working, and fuse looks fine
So that means it is a more complicated issue. Before going further I need to know the model and year of your mystery Spyder. I will guess that you have a RT because you are posting in a RT forum. But confirm that. Also list all the modifications and accessories you may have.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by Cambello
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,
That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!
But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
Well, I wish I had seen this before I gave up and covered her and put her to bed. I will have to try that tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by dcirvin
Well, I wish I had seen this before I gave up and covered her and put her to bed. I will have to try that tomorrow.
That won’t work unless the codes are no longer active. If you are turning the key on and you’re still in Limp Mode pushing the Mode, Set and turn signal buttons will display the active fault code but will not reset them.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Originally Posted by Cambello
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,
That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!
But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
Did not work for me.
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Good info but I need some help.
2015 Spyder RT
i just replaced back tire and apparently collapsed brake pads while replacing caliper.
i now have Brake Failure warning and three codes. C006c, C0031 and C0034 along with limp home mode.
Need to ID what these codes mean and a way to clear them. I've purged rear brake line and refilled both reservoirs but no change in warning lights or codes?
Trying not to have to go to dealer.
Please help.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Tumbleweed, have you taken the Spyder for a (careful!?) ryde down the street & back? Often those 'brake pad change' caused Limp Modes & Fault Codes can be cleared just by ryding for a few yards. Worth a shot!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-13-2019 at 07:01 AM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Tumbleweed
Good info but I need some help.
2015 Spyder RT
i just replaced back tire and apparently collapsed brake pads while replacing caliper.
i now have Brake Failure warning and three codes. C006c, C0031 and C0034 along with limp home mode.
Need to ID what these codes mean and a way to clear them. I've purged rear brake line and refilled both reservoirs but no change in warning lights or codes?
Trying not to have to go to dealer.
Please help.
C006C is a generic VCM failure code
C0031 Right front speed sensor failure.
C0034 Left Front speed sensor failure.
Did you start up the Spyder, with the back wheel in the air and spin the back wheel? That may have caused your issue. Go for a drive. If not. Since both front wheel sensors failed at the same time look for a wiring problem.
Fault codes are not reset except for a couple of limited cases. When you find and fix the problem. The fault status goes from active to occured and from the drivers point of view it goes away.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Code Reset
Originally Posted by Cambello
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,
That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!
But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
I am anxious to try this method to reset the code, even though my code indicates "brake failure".
My question is what do you mean when you refer to the INDICATOR button? Perhaps a Spyder is different.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
The referred to "Indicator Button" is more commonly called "The Turn Signal Button".
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
Dynojet Power Commander V, Power Commander POD-300 Display, PCV Map Switch, Pedal Commander (WOW)
Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
Baja Ron's Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters
Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
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Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H
LED bars above radiator inlets
LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
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LED headlights LED fog lights (WOW)
2" x 2" Road Lights inside front fenders
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New Banshee AGM
M3 TPMS on front tires
Remote Control for Heated Jacket and Heated Riding Pants
Analog Clock and Analog Volt Meter
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Fault Code Reset
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Which Spyder are you referring to Wenders?? (It might help for you to edit your user profile via the 'My Profile' button up the top right of the page & add whatever Spyder year & model you have to your sig line, so it displays with every post - see mine down the bottom right of this post. Don't hesitate to drop me a PM if you have any difficulties getting that sorted. )
Anyhow, back to your question - They've all got indicator buttons - but IIRC this ' press MODE, SET, & the Indicator button at the same time' thing to recall any Active Codes is only applicable to the 2013 & on Spyders (could be wrong 'bout that tho, happy to be carrected?! Anyone?? )
The Indicator button referred to is the 'toggle switch' on the lower LH part of the LH Control Module; you can use your Left Hand thumb to pull it Left to indicate Left, push it Right to indicate Right, and press it straight IN when it's in its center 'relaxed' position to cancel either indicator. AND it also lets you press it straight IN so that it'll work in conjunction with doing the same on the MODE & SET buttons up the top of that LH Control Module so you can view/hide any currently active Codes.
Hope that helps some...
Yeap, it helps. I suspected it was the TURN SIGNAL switch. I hit all 3 buttons simultaneously, but unfortunately it did not give me a code, just the message I am already getting all the time "Brake Failure". Perhaps the trick does not work on a 2008 SE5. Anyway, thanks for the response. BTW I updated my profile. wenders
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-05-2020 at 01:07 AM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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