So, let me see if I have this correct...the piston on the REAR caliper on 2012 and prior models gets pushed back in and on the 2013/2014 models gets screwed back in?
I wouldn't mind taking the caliper off the bike to take it to my nearest dealer, the problem is my nearest dealer is 100 miles away which is a real pain. I guess I'll be playing with it until my friend gets back from hunting. Then, maybe both of us can work it in. Otherwise I'll remove it and do the 200 miles. Cross my fingers they can do it or replace it under warranty. Thanks all!
You can do that on the front calipers only.
But for the rear brake, you can't use that method on 2013 and 2014 models.
The piston is screwed into the caliper...
We did that on my rear brakes last week and it worked fine. In fact the service tech at our dealership is the one who suggested using that method.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
Quick question..did you have the piston out of the caliper at any time..?? from what I can see in the picture that piston is to far out already. Also most pistons have the hollow side facing out Your best bet is to push it all the way out so you can line it up properly. Pull the dust cover off so you can see better make sure your o rings are in and apply a bit of fluid on and start the piston back in making sure it is straight. If it jams to one side little pressure on the opposite side will get it straight once again. Any car shop or bike shop can help you out if you take them the caliper...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I got the caliper off and tried to use the old pads to back the piston up. Didn't budge. Ended up removing the pads and, in trying to "pull the lever back" to back the piston, it still wouldn't budge but the lever easily moved forward and that pushed the piston out as far as it will go. Never had the piston all the way out and in pushing it in, it always stayed straight but didn't move in.
Last edited by Flamewinger; 03-04-2015 at 12:31 AM.
Ok, first off this is Flamewinger only I'm having problems logging in with Tappatalk so I'm using a new login.
I'm out at dealer in Lodi California and they are telling me the caliper has to be rebuilt and there is no rebuild kit. BRP considers the brake caliper to be a wear and tear item and is not covered under warranty. They're trying to do some kind of deal to make it possible. I am now just waiting to go back and find out the answer.
I would think the brake pads are wear and tear but the calibers part of the bike and I don't know what BRB is pulling (or the dealership) but we'll see. I'd like to know I'll get a new caliper or something.
Anyone know now if a salvage place that sells Spyder parts?
Flamewinger
using new sign-on cause Tapatalk messed up my password.
I was told by the first dealer that the caliper is bad and is not covered under warranty. I figured, what the hell, and went another 20+ miles to another dealer and they were not only able to rebuild it from a spare but they want me to bring the bike in next week to get a warranty replacement installed by them, Go Figure!?!?!
It seems you have to use a strong pair of pliers to screw the piston back in. There are two holes for this and the service manual is wrong in using the lever to retract the piston. Also this dealer has Kumho's and will be getting Arachnid's along with the newer BRP (Kenda) tires. I'm going to this Elk Grove Powersports for my service!
I just did the rear brakes on my 2012 and yes you push the pistons in with a c clamp. I have a 1998 Mercury that has to have the rear caliper pistons screwed in so I assume the Brembos are the same.
Yes, 2013's and up are different. You do have to "screw" the piston back in. There are two holes in the head of the piston that you can poke a good set of pliers into then turn it counter clock wise to retract the piston.
With rebuilt calpier, I putt back in and hooked up the brake fluid line. Pumped and pumped and eventually bled the rear. I have some braking but the rear is not working. Dealer will replace with new this week. No error codes. (so far)
I just wanted to update this thread with some additional information.
While replacing the tire on TxSpyderGirl's '14 RT-S the rear brake pads squeezed together.
I was aware of "screwing" the piston back in so I proceeded to try, for almost 2 hours....
Here's how to do it with almost no heartburn - open the bleeder screw just enough to let out some
brake fluid, take a pair of needle nose pliers and place them in the two holes in the piston, and
rotate and push in a clockwise motion. I put an old t-shirt round the bleeder to catch the brake fluid.
Took less than 5 minutes after fighting with the thing for almost 2 hours.
No need for a C-clamp, just push and turn in a clockwise direction and it'll go right back in.
Very little brake fluid came out. You can always check your master cylinder and add brake fluid if necessary.
Hopefully this will help someone trying to replace brake pads on the newer Spyders.
Yes, 2013's and up are different. You do have to "screw" the piston back in. There are two holes in the head of the piston that you can poke a good set of pliers into then turn it counter clock wise to retract the piston.
Originally Posted by TexasMule
I just wanted to update this thread with some additional information.
...open the bleeder screw just enough to let out some
brake fluid, take a pair of needle nose pliers and place them in the two holes in the piston, and
rotate and push in a clockwise motion. I put an old t-shirt round the bleeder to catch the brake fluid.
No need for a C-clamp, just push and turn in a clockwise direction and it'll go right back in.
Can we get a consensus here -- clockwise or counterclockwise ??
Interesting tidbit. I saw a Ural motorcycle the other day. Made in Russia and is an updated copy of ancient BMW (for those that don't know). Anyway, I notice the rear brake caliper looks completely identical to the Spyder unit. I don't know if it is, or not, but visually they appear to be identical. Urals are famous for cheap, so it might be a low cost alternative for rebuild parts?
Wish i read this thread first..I took the caliper off after 2 hours and taped the piston back lightly with a hammer..Wow love this web site2014 RT limited..put New Vrubber tire on rear
Did you put the new, just-released Vee on the back? Vee Part Number 35004? The older tires Vee makes are part number 35002. The load rating on 35004 is 80H which is good for the RT's. BRP spec's 76H. However, the 35002 has a load rating of 68H which is good for the RS's but not the RT's. If you don't know the part number (which was on the paper label), you can read the load rating on the sidewall of the tire. The new 35004's were just made available. If that is what you have, great. Let us know how you like it. I have one but haven't put it on yet.
Yes I got the new v rubber 35004...Oringinal lasted 4000 miles ...interesting that is tell you on the side wall of the tire that tire pressure should be 25 lbs min -max..did the chalk test across the tire and it seems to wear off chalk evenly...only have 25 miles on tire so far
Yes I got the new v rubber 35004...Oringinal lasted 4000 miles ...interesting that is tell you on the side wall of the tire that tire pressure should be 25 lbs min -max..did the chalk test across the tire and it seems to wear off chalk evenly...only have 25 miles on tire so far
The tire sidewall says the load ratings are at the:
"Recommendation pressure 25 psi min 30 psi max (min 25 psi)".
That pretty much sums it up. Vee is recommending the standard pressure range (26-30 psi). I had asked Vee's tech people for a recommendation and they confirmed that saying they recommend the factory specified pressure range.
2014 RT Limited - completed brake job around 22,000 miles. Fronts could have went awhile yet (maybe 5K) and rear brake pads were close to needing replacement, so decided to do a complete front/rear replacement on the pads.
I purchased from BajaRon (great service as you all know) the fully sintered HH pads.
I started with the fronts - super easy, just like all of the cars I've done in the past. The surprise for me is that each brake on the front is a four piston system (2 pistons per pad). The pistons pressed in with my hand without tools, just used the old pads to insure I bottom them out and not too far in.
The rear concerned me more due to all of the discussion on the forum. After removing the caliper from the rear, I decided to utilize a small pair of needle nose pliers in the two holes on the piston. I proceeded to turn the piston clockwise while applying a slight pressure inward. So smooth, it was easy and took less than a couple of minutes. I did not have to crack the brake bleeder. I checked the brake fluid reservoir levels and they look fine (check before and after for each system).
I completed the brake's breaking in process per BajaRon's instructions. Worked great and got the brakes through the "bedding-in" process just fine. They work well and pedal feels solid.
Here's a pic of the rear caliper with the piston in the starting (out) position - for those who would like to know what to expect when pulling off the rear caliper....good luck all who do this. Please note: when you pull off your rear caliper, be careful to watch for a thin washer that is used as a shim for alignment. I had one in the lower rear bolt position. It's very thin...just watch to make sure if you have one, you know which bolt hole it came from.
I thought the overall brake pad replacement process was very easy and was "lucky" that my rear brake piston moved easily.
Last edited by Jim&Teresa; 08-24-2015 at 04:30 PM.
Happy and safe rydin'
2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
I was wondering what the two holes are for in the head of the piston. Possibly for a tool to use to screw it back in, and it is all the way out, what with me playing with it. I've tried the tension lever on the back but it only goes forward and that extends the piston. Yet the service manual says to rotate back to pull piston in. So now I have to find a special tool to see if I can screw it back in. Weird, with my Goldwing I just compressed the pistons back. Oh, Yes I removed the reservoir caps to relieve any pressure.
Use a needle nose plyers to screw the piston back in. The plyers must be small enough for the ends to fit into the holes. Turn the piston clockwise as you push it in. Remove cap on reservoir to allow for over flow and place cloth around it. Good Luck!
So as a summery of what I have read here,if you have a 2013 or later use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn piston CLOCKWISE while pushing lightly in on it. With a 2012 and earlier use a C Clamp to push the piston back in. Remove master cyl. caps for room just in case and pack with rags to catch any overflow. Are there sny special precautions to be taken for the ABS brake system in changing the pads? I haven't heard of anyone mentioning any but you never know.
Did I miss anything?
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
So as a summery of what I have read here,if you have a 2013 or later use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn piston CLOCKWISE while pushing lightly in on it. With a 2012 and earlier use a C Clamp to push the piston back in. Remove master cyl. caps for room just in case and pack with rags to catch any overflow. Are there sny special precautions to be taken for the ABS brake system in changing the pads? I haven't heard of anyone mentioning any but you never know.
Did I miss anything?
I took off the sensor at the rear caliper area. It has shims and one bolt holding it on. I did that to protect it when removing the caliper. To get room to move the caliper, I also removed the bracket holding both cables to the swing arm. It allows more movement for the caliper when it's removed.
I taped the sensor/shims/bolt together so I would not lose any of the shims - must have been three or four very thin shims in the sensor mount.
Happy and safe rydin'
2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14