Replace brake pads

[smokster]

Anyone have step by step to replace front and rear pads?

[tjfischer]

Anyone have step by step to replace front and rear pads?

I did my front and back at 18,000 miles. If you have done disc brakes on a car, its the same thing.

Sorry, but I didn't write down what I did, buts its very easy. I did all three in less than an hour.

I recommend using "Disc Brake Quiet" to reduce or eliminate the brake Squeal. Also, the New re-disigned pads have a black steel plate on the back verus the Pink ones that do in fact squeal.

[SethO]

can you get better brake pads, like HH seather pads?

[patches]

Agree, it is very easy. PM me your email address and I can give you exactly what the manual states to do. Once I started, I didn't even look at it.
The kits come with everything you need and the bolts already have locktight on them for the rear...the fronts will need them as well. It is best to have a torque wrench if you don't know how to feel it out.

[barb36jack31]

Can you replace the rear brake pads with the wheel on the bike? The brakes on my Spyder do not squeal, but they don't seem to be very agressive in stopping the machine. Are there brake pads available from sources other than BRP? Thanks for your advice.

[xpeschon]

Yes you can change the rear brake pads with out taking off the tire.. Be sure to take off the Parking brake cable so it don't get damaged... On Sunday I took my rear and front brake pads off to apply some silicone on the back of the pads because mine SQEAKED really bad at low speeds... The front ones are a bit differant then a normal Disc brake system... They bolt on a little differant but easy, more important note is on the front pads there are 2 springs that lock into a stud coming from the caliper, you will have to PREY the top of the pad out then lift the pad up,, kind of hard to explain but again this is a pretty easy task.. As for types of pads etc I think its more on the lines of personal perferrance..
Hope this help..


Joe

[slurpeegirl]

Agree, it is very easy. PM me your email address and I can give you exactly what the manual states to do. Once I started, I didn't even look at it.
The kits come with everything you need and the bolts already have locktight on them for the rear...the fronts will need them as well. It is best to have a torque wrench if you don't know how to feel it out.

Im also looking for instructions as well slurpeegirl32@gmail.com

[rkteck]

I did my front and back at 18,000 miles. If you have done disc brakes on a car, its the same thing.

I took my Spyder in yesterday because I am getting a "Brake failure warning". The dealer called me today and said I need new brake pads and that is the cause of the warning. I only have 9,300 miles on it and don't even use the brakes in most cases. I have the feeling they are just trying to sell something rather than figure out the real problem.

They also told me that most pads only last 8,000-11,000 miles. Anyone else replace brakes before hitting 10k?

[spyderbitten]

I too was getting the "Brake Failure" message with 15,000 miles. Checked brake fluid and one reservoir was a little low. Topped it off and all is well. That was 3 weeks ago. I doubt you need new pads, check the fluid levels first.

Mike

[yamahog]

For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?

[CanAmKidd]

More then likely the factory bolts have a locking agent on them. That's my guess is why they say replace. Did I hear someone say Loctite?

[elkk]

For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?

If you buy the Brake Pad Kit from Can Am it comes with new bolts pre-treated w loctite and spring clips. I see no reason why you couldn't clean and lube the old bolts, be sure to use loctite on the threads only.

[Joerolwing]

For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?

They state this because they are included in the dealer's brake kit. I reused my original ones with my own blue thread locker.

[Itadsup]

I too was getting the "Brake Failure" message with 15,000 miles. Checked brake fluid and one reservoir was a little low. Topped it off and all is well. That was 3 weeks ago. I doubt you need new pads, check the fluid levels first.

Mike

Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...

[Peteoz]

Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...

I’m no brake expert, Itadsup, and this has not happened to me, but there are a number of threads on this where nanny kicks up a brake warning if the fluid level drops a little. Adding a spoonful of fluid clears the warning. That’s why you’ll find the advice to add a little fluid.

Pete

[bobnaquin]

I took my Spyder in yesterday because I am getting a "Brake failure warning". The dealer called me today and said I need new brake pads and that is the cause of the warning. I only have 9,300 miles on it and don't even use the brakes in most cases. I have the feeling they are just trying to sell something rather than figure out the real problem.

They also told me that most pads only last 8,000-11,000 miles. Anyone else replace brakes before hitting 10k?

I have 36,000 miles on a 2008 Spyder. Yes they are the originals. I have not changed them out since they are within spec. They do not squeal. I think you need a better dealer or there is something seriously wrong with your bike.

[Flamewinger]

I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

Help
Thanks

[CUSTOM STS]

I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

Help
Thanks

I did mine last week and mine turned easy using needle nose pliers but my bike only has 3500 miles. Autozone rents out a brake caliper piston tool to turn it in while applying pressure.

[elkk]

Glad the dealer fixed it for you.

[RudyB]

I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

Help
Thanks

On rear calI per the piston has to be screwed in not pushed in I just did rear pads on mine

[Joerolwing]

I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

Help
Thanks

i had the same problem and found that none of the automotive brake tools were small enough so I made one. BajaRon is developing a tool to turn the piston but without the compression feature.
IMG_2440.jpg

[bcer960]

I just did friends and used an adjustable grinder wrench, it opened big enough and worked great.

[Flamewinger]

I tried using pliers as well as the Autozone kit but couldn't turn the piston and the kit didn't have an adapter that fit. Due to trying to "pull lever back" to retract piston, I ended up with the pads removed and the piston all the way out.

Luckily my Elk Grove dealer fixed everything under warranty, even replacing the master cylinder that was leaking.

Thanks

[Flamewinger]

No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.

[elkk]

No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.

I retract my earlier statement regarding the pistons "screwing in". I was referring to early models and was not aware 2012 and up brake pistons do screw in. Sorry for the confusion and thanks to Bob (below) for bringing me up to date.