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Replace brake pads
Anyone have step by step to replace front and rear pads?
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Originally Posted by smokster
Anyone have step by step to replace front and rear pads?
I did my front and back at 18,000 miles. If you have done disc brakes on a car, its the same thing.
Sorry, but I didn't write down what I did, buts its very easy. I did all three in less than an hour.
I recommend using "Disc Brake Quiet" to reduce or eliminate the brake Squeal. Also, the New re-disigned pads have a black steel plate on the back verus the Pink ones that do in fact squeal.
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can you get better brake pads, like HH seather pads?
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Agree, it is very easy. PM me your email address and I can give you exactly what the manual states to do. Once I started, I didn't even look at it.
The kits come with everything you need and the bolts already have locktight on them for the rear...the fronts will need them as well. It is best to have a torque wrench if you don't know how to feel it out.
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Change rear brake pads with wheel on bike?
Can you replace the rear brake pads with the wheel on the bike? The brakes on my Spyder do not squeal, but they don't seem to be very agressive in stopping the machine. Are there brake pads available from sources other than BRP? Thanks for your advice.
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MOgang Member
Yes you can change the rear brake pads with out taking off the tire.. Be sure to take off the Parking brake cable so it don't get damaged... On Sunday I took my rear and front brake pads off to apply some silicone on the back of the pads because mine SQEAKED really bad at low speeds... The front ones are a bit differant then a normal Disc brake system... They bolt on a little differant but easy, more important note is on the front pads there are 2 springs that lock into a stud coming from the caliper, you will have to PREY the top of the pad out then lift the pad up,, kind of hard to explain but again this is a pretty easy task.. As for types of pads etc I think its more on the lines of personal perferrance..
Hope this help..
Joe
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EBC also offer Spyder brake pads now.
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Originally Posted by tjfischer
I did my front and back at 18,000 miles. If you have done disc brakes on a car, its the same thing.
I took my Spyder in yesterday because I am getting a "Brake failure warning". The dealer called me today and said I need new brake pads and that is the cause of the warning. I only have 9,300 miles on it and don't even use the brakes in most cases. I have the feeling they are just trying to sell something rather than figure out the real problem.
They also told me that most pads only last 8,000-11,000 miles. Anyone else replace brakes before hitting 10k?
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I too was getting the "Brake Failure" message with 15,000 miles. Checked brake fluid and one reservoir was a little low. Topped it off and all is well. That was 3 weeks ago. I doubt you need new pads, check the fluid levels first.
Mike
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new bolts?
For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?
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More then likely the factory bolts have a locking agent on them. That's my guess is why they say replace. Did I hear someone say Loctite?
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I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.
Help
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Flamewinger
I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.
Help
Thanks
I did mine last week and mine turned easy using needle nose pliers but my bike only has 3500 miles. Autozone rents out a brake caliper piston tool to turn it in while applying pressure.
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I tried using pliers as well as the Autozone kit but couldn't turn the piston and the kit didn't have an adapter that fit. Due to trying to "pull lever back" to retract piston, I ended up with the pads removed and the piston all the way out.
Luckily my Elk Grove dealer fixed everything under warranty, even replacing the master cylinder that was leaking.
Thanks
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Glad the dealer fixed it for you.
Last edited by elkk; 04-14-2015 at 09:13 PM.
Reason: Deleted wrong info
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No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.
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Originally Posted by yamahog
For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?
If you buy the Brake Pad Kit from Can Am it comes with new bolts pre-treated w loctite and spring clips. I see no reason why you couldn't clean and lube the old bolts, be sure to use loctite on the threads only.
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Be careful recommending 2012 and below brake replacement procedures with 2013 and above with the Brembo calipers. They are two different processes!
Bob
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Originally Posted by Flamewinger
No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.
I retract my earlier statement regarding the pistons "screwing in". I was referring to early models and was not aware 2012 and up brake pistons do screw in. Sorry for the confusion and thanks to Bob (below) for bringing me up to date.
Last edited by elkk; 04-14-2015 at 09:11 PM.
Reason: RETRACTION
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Originally Posted by elkk
The dealer is full of bull. The piston does not screw in or out and using any tool on the piston surface may scar the metal causing it to stick, it simply pushes in with a C-clamp, it does not push in flush with the caliper so don't force it. I use the old pad a thin piece of plastic against the piston. Also as you push the piston back in as far as it will go be careful not to push brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir (rear reservoir for front brakes, front reservoir is for the rear brake)...causes a big mess and it will ruin paint instantly.
Again, the 2013's an up have Brembo calipers and NO you do not push them in with a C-clamp! They screw in!
Bob
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Here's a picture of the rear caliper. If you look close you can see a hole in the piston head which is one of two that you are supposed to use to screw the piston back inside.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429054488.724224.jpg
No matter how hard I tried to screw/push the piston, it wouldn't budge. Would love to see it worked on by experts to see how everything works.
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2011 rss rear brake pad replacement
Can someone confirm how to compress the piston on the 2011 rss rear brake. Trying to change the pads . Should the piston be flush to the caliper? Can I use a c-clamp ?
thank you
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Originally Posted by mrfuzz
Can someone confirm how to compress the piston on the 2011 rss rear brake. Trying to change the pads . Should the piston be flush to the caliper? Can I use a c-clamp ?
thank you
Remove the caps from the tank. You may have to take some fluid out so when you compress the piston it doesn't over flow!
Yes you can compress the piston with a C-clamp on the 2011. I would compress it only far enough to get the pads in and enough to the caliper goes back on the disk.
Bob
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is it reasonable to wait till there's a brake failure warning light to replace front pads?
...It does sound easy enough to pull the caliper and check the pads...
they do have an indicator groove at 1mm to show they are at end of service, right ???
And it's a way to start learning it.
I've done brakes on other motorcycles, so I can't say I can't do it from a step by step procedure from the manual I downloaded.
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Very Active Member
WARNING LIGHT
...I'm not sure the Spyder can or will tell you the Brake PADS are too thin and need to be changed........The most frequent Failure CODE is from low Brake Fluid.......as little as a teaspoon will trigger it ........Mike
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