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  1. #1
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    Default 2015 Spyder RT "limp mode" erratically

    Hello, my Spyder, a brand new 2015 RT Limited has lost power as if in limp mode with no warning lights or codes on the dash. Bike does not do semi automatic shifting during this time. Unlike limp mode when revs are down, I can just turn throttle and it will take off as if nothing happened. On the third event, I turned engine off for a minute or so, turned back on with no codes being displayed. Under the latest BRP test protocol it is showing the code, U0259. It reflected 11 incidents since purchase beginning Oct 2015. Has just over 1000 miles. Last two times, going roughly 55mph in 5 th gear. My bike in the shop for close to 2 weeks and no answer/fix. Has this happened to anyone else out there? Know what the code indicates and remedy for it?
    Thanks
    Liza

  2. #2
    Active Member pontow's Avatar
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    Default Erratic Limp Mode

    I have never had the "Limp Mode" fault but I do have a couple of questions. When it happens, are you saying that the machine loses ALL power or just goes to "reduced" power? And in the 3 times that it happened, did it recover to normal without turning off the engine or did you turn off the engine, wait and then restart each time?

    If you go to the App store you can download an app that helps to diagnose what the codes mean. I ran your code on my app and it says "Lost communication or CAN-BUS ID" - "Damaged circuit wires or CAN-BUS module."
    2015 RT-S SE6 Red Pearl - aka "Ruby"
    Tri-Axis handlebars - Bajaron Sway Bar and Heim Links - Roadster Renovations Spring Stiffeners & Top Case mirror - Value Accessories 3 pc. Lid Net Set - Lidlox Helmet Holders - JT's Dash Mount Bar - Drink2go rider & passenger cupholder - Wolo Bad Boy Horn - Show Chrome Trunk Rack - 12V power & heated gear ports - Spyderpops missing belt guard - BRP Trailer Hitch - Gold Plug hex head drain plugs

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Bummer..!!

    with th can bus explanation and something the dealer will deal with. My question is did you remove the key and wait 30/45 minutes for all systems to shut down then restart..?? If that last bit of info, code and number of incedents is from the dealers read out from buds, it would seen there is a faulty connection or broken one...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  4. #4
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    Default limp mode-ish behavior

    Quote Originally Posted by pontow View Post
    I have never had the "Limp Mode" fault but I do have a couple of questions. When it happens, are you saying that the machine loses ALL power or just goes to "reduced" power? And in the 3 times that it happened, did it recover to normal without turning off the engine or did you turn off the engine, wait and then restart each time?

    If you go to the App store you can download an app that helps to diagnose what the codes mean. I ran your code on my app and it says "Lost communication or CAN-BUS ID" - "Damaged circuit wires or CAN-BUS module."
    The machine loses ALL power. Two times it recovered normally once speed down to zero, the last time, I turned it off to try and capture code. I restarted it about a minute later and all was fine.

    LOVE the tip re Spyder code app which is now on my phone

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    with th can bus explanation and something the dealer will deal with. My question is did you remove the key and wait 30/45 minutes for all systems to shut down then restart..?? If that last bit of info, code and number of incedents is from the dealers read out from buds, it would seen there is a faulty connection or broken one...
    The code is per the Dealership latest assessment protocol.

    i never removed key. The one time I turned it off, I turned it right back on and all was fine. While I experienced 3 episodes, the dealers said the code had registered 11 times
    Last edited by WildeZinola; 11-17-2015 at 02:47 PM.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Default

    U0259

    Lost communication with MSL-MSR (lost of CAN IDís).

    Missing CAN ID. Blown fuse Module internal error. Damaged circuit wires or damaged module pins.

    With unit connected to BUDS with MPI2, Turn ignition switch OFF, wait for cluster to turn off. Disconnect MPI2 from DLC connector. Measure resistance between DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected value = 50 to 70 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and ECMB-C1 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and ECMB-C2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and MSL3-2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and MSL3-3 (expected value < 2 ohms). Turn ignition switch ON Measure voltage between harness connector MSL2-1 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts). Measure voltage between harness connector MSR2-6 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts).

    _______________________________


    Looks like you have an intermittent CAN-BUS problem with a wiring harness to the cluster.

    If it is intermittent, those can be hard to troubleshoot and find. If they did the tests above and it passes, they may have to replace the entire harness and/or cluster.

    But a dealer having your bike this long with no answer is not right. They should be able to tell you what they have tried or done!!! Or if they escalated to BRP for help?

    If they cannot tell you anything like this, chances are they have done nothing with it and it might be time to go somewhere else.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come

  7. #7
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    Default

    If I was to be guessing about it; I'd be looking at the wiring connections for the affected items first. Then; you'd have to trace it out, while looking for any chafing...
    The Dealership should certainly have tracked it down by now. They're relying on the computers, and NOT their own eyeballs.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member latony007's Avatar
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    The only thing more irritating than the dealer not being able to find the issues is when you have to pay them hourly to keep searching for an issue they should be able to find. Hope you get it back soon. Makes me thing longer and harder about getting the extended warranty on mine
    Tony From Los Angeles

    Current
    2015 Spyder RT
    2012 Yamaha FZ6R
    Previous
    2008 Premier GS #588
    2005 Suzuki C50
    2007 Susuki S40

  9. #9
    Active Member pontow's Avatar
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    Default

    I happen to know this particular bike a little bit. It's pretty much brand new and hasn't even had the break in service done on it yet. The dealer who assembled it is not one of my favorites but the dealer who is working on it now has a good reputation. I know that this particular machine caused the now servicing dealer to upgrade their BUDS software and it wasn't until that software upgrade that they could even find the codes. They have been in contact with BRP and BRP is actually "directing traffic" somewhat at this point on this warranty issue. The owner is somewhat frustrated and I would be as well. Being here in the San Diego area, most days are still available for riding and they have missed out the past couple of weekends on a brand new machine. This is a very first bike experience for this owner as well and unfortunate that their machine is running into such a unique problem right off the bat.

    I agree that it is most likely a simple, poor electrical connection but since many of the variables and indicators are new to both the dealer and BRP, they are "taking their time" as they try to diagnose. Best in the long run for a good fix but extremely aggravating to the new owner.
    2015 RT-S SE6 Red Pearl - aka "Ruby"
    Tri-Axis handlebars - Bajaron Sway Bar and Heim Links - Roadster Renovations Spring Stiffeners & Top Case mirror - Value Accessories 3 pc. Lid Net Set - Lidlox Helmet Holders - JT's Dash Mount Bar - Drink2go rider & passenger cupholder - Wolo Bad Boy Horn - Show Chrome Trunk Rack - 12V power & heated gear ports - Spyderpops missing belt guard - BRP Trailer Hitch - Gold Plug hex head drain plugs

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    U0259

    Lost communication with MSL-MSR (lost of CAN IDís).

    Missing CAN ID. Blown fuse Module internal error. Damaged circuit wires or damaged module pins.

    With unit connected to BUDS with MPI2, Turn ignition switch OFF, wait for cluster to turn off. Disconnect MPI2 from DLC connector. Measure resistance between DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected value = 50 to 70 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and ECMB-C1 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and ECMB-C2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and MSL3-2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and MSL3-3 (expected value < 2 ohms). Turn ignition switch ON Measure voltage between harness connector MSL2-1 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts). Measure voltage between harness connector MSR2-6 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts).

    _______________________________


    Looks like you have an intermittent CAN-BUS problem with a wiring harness to the cluster.

    If it is intermittent, those can be hard to troubleshoot and find. If they did the tests above and it passes, they may have to replace the entire harness and/or cluster.

    But a dealer having your bike this long with no answer is not right. They should be able to tell you what they have tried or done!!! Or if they escalated to BRP for help?

    If they cannot tell you anything like this, chances are they have done nothing with it and it might be time to go somewhere else.

    Bob

    Hi Bob! Thanks so much the specifics! The Dealer mechanic has been wonderful and got BRP involved right away. They have directed a wide variety of tests. I will pass on your recommendation above! I get regular updates - daily- of what it is not,unfortunately. Also unfortunate is the fact that the mechanic can not duplicate problem in a code or behavior despite several drives.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    If I was to be guessing about it; I'd be looking at the wiring connections for the affected items first. Then; you'd have to trace it out, while looking for any chafing...
    The Dealership should certainly have tracked it down by now. They're relying on the computers, and NOT their own eyeballs.

    Thanks for feedback. I may meet with mechanic and "look" at bike together. I can at least raise questions even if I don't know what I am looking at (female cycle newbee)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by latony007 View Post
    The only thing more irritating than the dealer not being able to find the issues is when you have to pay them hourly to keep searching for an issue they should be able to find. Hope you get it back soon. Makes me thing longer and harder about getting the extended warranty on mine
    So true! Thankfully this is warranty work (2 months old,1,200 ish miles)! I will DEFINITELY be buying the extended warranty !

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildeZinola View Post
    Thanks for feedback. I may meet with mechanic and "look" at bike together. I can at least raise questions even if I don't know what I am looking at (female cycle newbee)
    GREAT idea!
    After all; the mechanic doesn't know exactly what you don't know; so he'll have to be on his game!

  14. #14
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    I don't like hearing the dealer had to update BUDs to get this code!
    This is not a new code to 2015 models. It's a new code for 2014 and up! That's over a year ago!

    I won't name the dealers as you have not but I know about the good ones and the bad ones down there in SD from others in SRA-SD club.
    Not having BUDs updated for over a year doesn't give me confidence it's in good hands!

    Anyway good luck on the issue!

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come

  15. #15
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    Default Rode trip on Spyder for Thanksgiving

    Got my bike back from dealer Wednesday before Thanksgiving. They replaced the left handle controls. Not sure if it is completely fixed but rode all Thanksgiving weekend, and it worked fine. Thanks to all of you for advice and tips!

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