Belt tension basics (without sonic gauge)?

[jrk36]

I'm having a new rear tyre fitted (Toyo Proxes 4) on my RS next week by a local (non Can Am) bike dealer - I live in the sticks and the nearest Spyder dealer is 2,200km away!

The actual tyre replacement is similar to any belt drive bike and I do not see any issues. However, the belt is very long and seems to need to be very tightly wound up. Is there any rule of thumb that can be applied given I don't have access to the proper gauge?

Thanks,
John K

[jtoro1]

You can buy a krikit gauge to ajust the belt from napa or amazon , napa KR2 +_ $15 there is a video and more info on SL, if you have a I phone or any one you know there is a app like a sonic gauge , you might be able to walk it off the pulley with out moving the adjustment screws and reinstall it

[PistonBlown]

I'm having a new rear tyre fitted (Toyo Proxes 4) on my RS next week by a local (non Can Am) bike dealer - I live in the sticks and the nearest Spyder dealer is 2,200km away!

The actual tyre replacement is similar to any belt drive bike and I do not see any issues. However, the belt is very long and seems to need to be very tightly wound up. Is there any rule of thumb that can be applied given I don't have access to the proper gauge?

Thanks,
John K

Lamont posted the following video on how to remove the wheel and replace the tyre without having to retention the belt:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...eel-Removal-RS

However I also suggest you get yourself a Krikit II belt gauge. You can get them via Ebay and there pretty cheap (a lot lot cheaper than the sonic one:-)) There are three versions for different belt types so make sure you get the Krikit II PN 91132 one as that's the correct one for Spyder belts. Best bet is to use it to measure the current belt tension before you remove the wheel and you can then check it again afterwards to make sure it's not changed. The Krikit gauge doesn't measure our belts correctly as such but it does measure then consistently. the measurement is obviously different if you have the spyder jacked up rather than on the ground.

There was a bit of a debate a while back on the best tension but I think most people were in the 180 to 200 range (measured on the Krikit) for the RS when it's on the ground.

Someone did post a video on how to use a Krikit to measure the Spyder belt but I can't find it at the moment.

[wyliec]

There was a shade tree mechanic procedure mentioned on here awhile ago. It actually came from a trustworthy source. Find the middle of belt, and with 2 fingers twist the belt; it shouldn't go past 90 degrees. The one problem with this method is not everyone has the same strength.

The gauge method of course is best. I periodically use the twist method. When I do bring my spyder in each 4600 mile maintenance, the belt is checked, and it hasn't needed adjustment. I guess my 2 fingers are calibrated.

[billrob71]

Lamont posted the following video on how to remove the wheel and replace the tyre without having to retention the belt:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...eel-Removal-RS

However I also suggest you get yourself a Krikit II belt gauge. You can get them via Ebay and there pretty cheap (a lot lot cheaper than the sonic one:-)) There are three versions for different belt types so make sure you get the Krikit II PN 91132 one as that's the correct one for Spyder belts. Best bet is to use it to measure the current belt tension before you remove the wheel and you can then check it again afterwards to make sure it's not changed. The Krikit gauge doesn't measure our belts correctly as such but it does measure then consistently. the measurement is obviously different if you have the spyder jacked up rather than on the ground.

There was a bit of a debate a while back on the best tension but I think most people were in the 180 to 200 range (measured on the Krikit) for the RS when it's on the ground.

Someone did post a video on how to use a Krikit to measure the Spyder belt but I can't find it at the moment.

My got the Krikit 2 and works pretty good

[mtdoragary]

There was a shade tree mechanic procedure mentioned on here awhile ago. It actually came from a trustworthy source. Find the middle of belt, and with 2 fingers twist the belt; it shouldn't go past 90 degrees. The one problem with this method is not everyone has the same strength.

The gauge method of course is best. I periodically use the twist method. When I do bring my spyder in each 4600 mile maintenance, the belt is checked, and it hasn't needed adjustment. I guess my 2 fingers are calibrated.

OLD SCHOOL IS STILL THE BEST!

[Bob Denman]

Wylie's got good thumbs!

And that "trustworthy source"...





...was Scotty!

[capt.jim]

Jack it up under the frame to where the tire is a couple inches off the ground, remove the lower shock bolt and let the tire go down. The axis of the swing arm will decrease the tension and you can wiggle the belt off the sprocket without loosening the adjustment screws.

[jrk36]

Jack it up under the frame .........

I followed the advice given, removed the rear wheel myself and took to bike dealer to fit the Toyo Prexes 4 rear tyre.
Just re-installed and ready for business
See photos at:
https://picasaweb.go...2014_0324Spyder

[billybovine]

I like the look of that tire. Looks like a good replacement for the Kumho I have now.

[SpyderAnn01]

Joe, CPTJAM, also uses the twist - 90 degree method.