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Blazing Member
I tried to take mine out to change the front plug on my 2011 RT and screwed around for ever to no avail . Good luck getting it out and if you do please post your secret .
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If you cut it out, there's no way you'd ever be tempted to put the useless beast back.
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Originally Posted by MidLifeCrisis
If you cut it out, there's no way you'd ever be tempted to put the useless beast back.
I would love to do just that but at this time I dont have anything to replace it LOL.
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Originally Posted by yamahog
I would love to do just that but at this time I dont have anything to replace it LOL.
What better reason to get "approval" for a new Kewlmetal replacement.
Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
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I used a dremel tool to get mine out. It won't be going back in.
2013 RTS SE5
2013 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1700
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Very Active Member
I took the left side frame bar that the ignition coils hang from out. Box came out easily. Did this when I was removing the front header pipe to wrap. The silencer section of the air box never made it back in. Just the air cleaner itself.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by yamahog
I would love to do just that but at this time I dont have anything to replace it LOL.
I should have my air filter in stock in a few weeks if you can wait a bit.
JT
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jthornton
I should have my air filter in stock in a few weeks if you can wait a bit.
JT
Looking forward to see what you come up with.
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Originally Posted by jthornton
I should have my air filter in stock in a few weeks if you can wait a bit.
JT
Must be more to this than just a filter. Care to share?
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Originally Posted by Jerbear
Must be more to this than just a filter. Care to share?
Here is a link to his page: http://gnipsel.com/spyderstore/index...&product_id=65
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I have taken mine in and out several times. Take off the horizontal bar that runs from the front of the bike to the passenger step. Undue the clamp at the air cleaner and take the air cleaner lid off. Then remove one bolt if I recall correctly and wiggle it out on the left side. You may find that it helps to remove the front O2 sensor but be very careful not to let the sensor part touch anything, especially your hands. Put a clean baggy over it for good measure once it is out.
Putting back in is the reverse but really take a look as you take it out as to how it sits when installed and as it rotates out as putting it back in is a bit more of a challenge. That being said it is not all that bad and should only take 10 minutes each way.
Good luck with it,
Randy
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Jerbear
Must be more to this than just a filter. Care to share?
Here is the prototype installed on Doc Riverside's RT, we also tested on a ST for fit.
I really need to thank Doc Riverside more often for all his help over the last few months as we tested prototypes and worked out details. And thanks for Dan for his testing with the GS/RS.
air-filter-01.jpg
The production version will be anodized.
Thanks
JT
Last edited by jthornton; 02-21-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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Active Member
Take air filter out, pull the cover for filter out to the right, releasing the 2 tabs
Originally Posted by yamahog
Ok I have been serching all morning and I cant find the trick for getting this big ass box out of there, any hints I have it unbolted just cant get past the frame with it.Help!!!!!!!!!!!
If you remove air filter (un-clip from airbox), pull air filter housing to the right, releasing the 2 tabs on left (that hold airfilter cover on).
you can put a small size 2 x 4 to separate the air filter cover from the main body of airbox about 4".
You then can reach in between opening on right side & change #1 sparkplug.
You don't have to remove whole airbox, because that involves taking side sub frame, etc off.
Not easy, but doeable.
Jim
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Originally Posted by spyderyderjim
If you remove air filter (un-clip from airbox), pull air filter housing to the right, releasing the 2 tabs on left (that hold airfilter cover on).
you can put a small size 2 x 4 to separate the air filter cover from the main body of airbox about 4".
You then can reach in between opening on right side & change #1 sparkplug.
You don't have to remove whole airbox, because that involves taking side sub frame, etc off.
Not easy, but doeable.
Jim
Thanks again for this info, managed to get that silly front plug with your sugestions, except I used bungy cords to hold the two pieces apart, now I have to wait for new wires to get here to see how fun they will be.
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jthornton,
What is the price? I went to the link and couldn't find one
Jerry
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by spacetiger
jthornton,
What is the price? I went to the link and couldn't find one
Jerry
I have not set the price yet, I'm still working with the anodizer on what my cost will be for that. As soon as I get firm pricing I'll post the price. I try very hard to price my products very competitive and either make them myself or they are made in Missouri. I should know next week the delivery on the first batch and the price.
JT
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New wires.
Well got the front spark plug out, and new plug wires arrived yesterday hope to attempt to replace the wires tonight, still haven't gotten the air box out, hopefully I can finish without doing so, but it is now a priority mod to replace that monster. I am just amazed at the stupidity of building a state of the art $30000 dollar touring machine, and then not making sure the average person can maintain the basics, and to top it off using cheap parts that only last 9 to 12 thousand miles before having to replace them. ,unless they make major changes in the ease of maintenance of these bikes this will be my only spyder, I love the bike but servicing them is ridiculous. O and how did I decide that plugs needed changing? the bike through the P0174 code and my dealer suggested changing the plugs before I brought it in, because according to him today's crappy gas fowls the plugs, now I know why he suggested I change the plugs geese thanks LOL.
Sorry about the rant just had to get it off my chest, Thanks for all the great help on here and I promise not to do any thing rash LOL
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Originally Posted by yamahog
Well got the front spark plug out, and new plug wires arrived yesterday hope to attempt to replace the wires tonight, still haven't gotten the air box out, hopefully I can finish without doing so, but it is now a priority mod to replace that monster. I am just amazed at the stupidity of building a state of the art $30000 dollar touring machine, and then not making sure the average person can maintain the basics, and to top it off using cheap parts that only last 9 to 12 thousand miles before having to replace them. ,unless they make major changes in the ease of maintenance of these bikes this will be my only spyder, I love the bike but servicing them is ridiculous. O and how did I decide that plugs needed changing? the bike through the P0174 code and my dealer suggested changing the plugs before I brought it in, because according to him today's crappy gas fowls the plugs, now I know why he suggested I change the plugs geese thanks LOL.
Sorry about the rant just had to get it off my chest, Thanks for all the great help on here and I promise not to do any thing rash LOL
I went through the same thing with my 2013 RTS SE5 and the P0174 code. I also replaced my plugs and wires with BajaRon's set. I had previously removed the airbox and replaced it with the Kewl Metal air filter kit. I did not get rid of the code until I removed the fuel canister and isolated the purge valve. I rerouted the gas vent to the back of the Spyder. Look for the threads on performing a canisterectomy. That solved the P0174 code issue. The problem was the purge valve.
2013 RTS SE5
2013 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1700
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Originally Posted by Huddleston
I went through the same thing with my 2013 RTS SE5 and the P0174 code. I also replaced my plugs and wires with BajaRon's set. I had previously removed the airbox and replaced it with the Kewl Metal air filter kit. I did not get rid of the code until I removed the fuel canister and isolated the purge valve. I rerouted the gas vent to the back of the Spyder. Look for the threads on performing a canisterectomy. That solved the P0174 code issue. The problem was the purge valve.
Purge valve failure or a vacuum leak is far more likely to cause a lean cylinder condition. Other possibilities would be a valve problem or an O2 sensor issue. There are additional possibilities. A fouled plug should not cause a lean cylinder on a vehicle with individual O2 sensors...just the opposite, so I don't understand the tech's comments. Sounds like he was shooting from the hip (and didn't want to bother taking three hours [flat rate] to change the plugs on an RT).
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