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Not happy with brakes on 2011 RT
I wasn't happy with my brakes so I had them serviced. My dealer bled them but they seem about the same. I am used to motorcycle brakes STOPPING aggressively when you apply them. Mine seem to stop gently and gradually. I'm afraid I won't be able to stop if I really NEED to STOP! Pumping them helps but there may not be time to pump them in an emergency.
Is this normal for Spyders? Suggestions?
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Very Active Member
Notice that you have the 11 RT SM5
We put 76000 on our 11 RT and was acceptable braking for its time with us. It has twice the weight (mass) of your Shadow and the braking will not be as responsive, but a well bled system (flushed and with new brake fluid) should perform well. The Brembo calipers on the newer RT's seem to be a significant improvement, but for now I'd say find a good shop or someone to do a complete flush and purge, and maybe try some more aggressive pads. BajaRon can fix you up with new pads.
I sure liked my Shadow Aero while I had it.
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Very Active Member
Get some EBC pads and rotors on from Bajaron. It woke up the braking on our 2012 RT. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rs-amp-Helmets
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Active Member
Weak Brakes
If you need to pump your Master Cylinder is weak.I would replace Master Cylinder
and use pads from Baha Ron .I used the fully sintered and the first time I used under hard Braking I thought that I was going thru the Windshield.
https://ebcbrakes.com/what-is-sintering/
2015 RTS Ltd Spyderpops bumpskid, Dual Isci Hand Brake ,Baker Wind Wings
2016 Polaris Slingshot SL
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Originally Posted by Omcge
If you need to pump your Master Cylinder is weak.I would replace Master Cylinder
and use pads from Baha Ron .I used the fully sintered and the first time I used under hard Braking I thought that I was going thru the Windshield.
https://ebcbrakes.com/what-is-sintering/
Nearly going through the windshield is what I am looking for! Thanks!
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Very Active Member
Here's the thing....
If all your rydes were non abs, vss rydes then you will definitely see the change. They still stop well but as stated above there are better options. You will never raise the rear with abs or in many cases lock up the wheels..but you stop just as fast with out sliding or loosing control...and that is the object...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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After a talk with Baja Ron, and still being unhappy, I took my Spyder back to the dealer for troubleshooting and repair. There has to be something wrong! My brakes are pretty bad.
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Let us know what they find: good luck!
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Let us know what they find: good luck!
So far the Spyder is still in the shop and I've been riding my Honda Shadow Aero 750 again. I still love motorcycles but I miss the Spyder too. They are like two sides of a coin. The same, but just different enough to be interesting. To me, the Spyder is just a three wheeled motorcycle. I hope it is fixed quickly and well.
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Very Active Member
RS vs F3
my 2009 RS would launch you off the seat & over the windshield during a panic stop.... my F3, which has BREMBO brakes, aren't half as good as my RS brakes were... as far as i'm concerned, BREMBO brakes suck....
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Originally Posted by SPYD3R
my 2009 RS would launch you off the seat & over the windshield during a panic stop.... my F3, which has BREMBO brakes, aren't half as good as my RS brakes were... as far as i'm concerned, BREMBO brakes suck....
Dan P
SPYD3R
My brakes used to be such that I didn't notice them. They worked well enough. Then I got into Limp Mode and the dealer said Limp Mode was triggered by brake sensors. The brakes were bled but still were not good. The brake pedal is soft rather than hard. When I get by bike out of the shop I would be satisfied with brakes that I did not notice, but launching me off the seat & over the windshield would be even better!
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
my 2009 RS would launch you off the seat & over the windshield during a panic stop.... my F3, which has BREMBO brakes, aren't half as good as my RS brakes were... as far as i'm concerned, BREMBO brakes suck....
Dan P
SPYD3R
While calipers are certainly an important component in the braking process. There are other components which will impact the final result as much or more than the calipers.
There is no question that the Brembo calipers are much superior to their BRP predecessors. So this is not the issue if you have a 2013+ Spyder.
The 2008 & 2009 Spyders used semi-metallic pads which stopped VERY WELL even with inferior calipers. However, the screeching emitted by these pads was intolerable. So, BRP went to an organic pad. This helped greatly with the noise. But braking suffered quite a bit. This may have been the impetus for them going to the much superior Brembo calipers.
But the pads supplied by BRP are still organic. And while pretty much quiet. They don't come anywhere near providing the stopping potential that can be had with this newer system. With a stock, unloaded Spyder 1-up. Stopping power is at least adequate if not very good with the current Brembo / Organic setup. But add storage weight, a 2nd rider and maybe a trailer and you're looking at a much more leisurely stopping sequence. If you need to stop in a hurry this can really get your undivided attention. To put it mildly. You just do not want to be surprised at how your ride does not stop well.
Metal compound pads will always stop better than pads made with organic fibers. Not only do they grip the rotor more positively. But they create and transfer heat much more efficiently. Stopping is simply the conversion of energy. You are converting forward inertia into heat. The better you do this. The faster you will stop.
Steel is probably the best compound for stopping. But it is very noisy and creates rust on everything it touches. EBC Sintered brake pads are made with a copper compound. Copper transfers heat better than steel but it is not quite as aggressive on the rotor. The end result is similar to steel but without the noise or the rust issues. So, they will stop much better than an Organic pad. They are more expensive. But it is unlikely that you will be thinking about the additional expense during an emergency stopping scenario.
The next important component is the rotor. The EBC rotors offer a better braking surface than do the OEM BRP rotors. So this component will increase stopping power over just changing to the Sintered pad sets. An added benefit is that the EBC rotors resist warpage much better than the OEM rotors. I've had several customers who have gone through at lest 1, if not more, sets of front, OEM rotors due to warping. As far as I know, none of them have experienced any rotor warpage having installed the EBC rotor sets.
If you are not stopping as well as you would like. There are solutions.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by BajaRon; 07-25-2017 at 04:16 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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I got my Spyder back yesterday. The dealer checked them out thoroughly and said that they worked fine. I test rode it and they stopped fine when you stomp on the brakes. However, I have developed a habit of "lightly" touching the brakes on my other vehicles and gently slowing down. "Lightly" applying the brakes on the Spyder doesn't work as well. The pedal has to be pushed quite a ways to engage the brakes. It seems that they are either on enough to stop or not. They are not so good at slowing down gradually with light brake pedal action. I will just learn how to deal with this since there doesn't seem to be anything that can be done about it.
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks for letting us know how it worked out!
It's time to strap on your "Lead Boots"; they'll make stopping easier!
Well put!
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
One more thing...
(Although I'm pretty sure that you know about it. )
Don't try covering the brake pedal, by lightly resting your foot on it.
Nanny will get the idea that something is dreadfully wrong, and your main screen will light up like a "Street Junkie Christmas Tree"!
Yes, I know. I keep my foot near but not on the brake pedal. Don't want to give nanny a heart attack!
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Casher50
I got my Spyder back yesterday. The dealer checked them out thoroughly and said that they worked fine. I test rode it and they stopped fine when you stomp on the brakes. However, I have developed a habit of "lightly" touching the brakes on my other vehicles and gently slowing down. "Lightly" applying the brakes on the Spyder doesn't work as well. The pedal has to be pushed quite a ways to engage the brakes. It seems that they are either on enough to stop or not. They are not so good at slowing down gradually with light brake pedal action. I will just learn how to deal with this since there doesn't seem to be anything that can be done about it.
There are the solutions that converting to EBC components offer.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
There are the solutions that converting to EBC components offer.
I will consider these solutions if I can't get used to the Spyder's brakes. I really do appreciate the info!
2011 Spyder RT SM5
2006 Honda Shadow Aero 750
1974 Rokon MX340
1984 Toyota tube buggy (Truggy) rock crawler (highly modified)
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser(modifiedfor off-roaduse)
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Active Member
this is a old post but I have felt the same way about my 2012 rtf for a long time about limited brake pressure at pedal. Now I have new 2019 f3L and **** that about popped my eyes stopping hard as I could when testing..... NO real answer from above I guess
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jerrydonna
...Now I have new 2019 f3L and **** that about popped my eyes stopping hard as I could when testing....
And when you switch to fully sintered EBC pads from Bajaron at your next pad replacement you'll understand the meaning of, "stopping you like the hand of God."
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-17-2020 at 02:35 AM.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Dont buy chinese brake pads! A cheap pad equals soft braking. I know because I tried to save a few dollars. Put cheap ebay pads on and the braking was horrible. Bought fully sintered EBC pads and now it stops agressively.
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