Front Cylinder Spark Plug Boot Removal

[NorthStar]

I am attempting to remove the spark plug boot on the front cylinder spark plug so I can remove the plug for replacement. Unfortunately, after multiple attempts to disconnect the wire from the plug I am afraid that any further brute force might damage the spark plug wire. Not something I want to do.

Any suggestions/tips on how to separate the boot from the plug would be very much appreciated. Note: I have both right and left panels removed as well as the front trunk and the top of the air box.

[mcaccamise]

Hi Removing the air filter box is a plus when doing a plug change out also twisting the boot right and left to release them should be done,if all fails and the wires break they should be replaced (Baja Rans) has the kits.
Mike

[Rotaxer]

From what I have read, removing will often damage the stock wire and that you would be better off replacing with a higher quality after market wire anyways. Check one of our site sponsors for more details.


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rs-amp-Helmets

Another good read...

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...park+plug+wire

[boborgera]

Sorry to say if you have the stock wires you probably damaged them all ready.
But in any case i would try with a small spring puller, or a small flat head screwdriver is hook under the boot and brake the suction on the boot.

[BajaRon]

Those stock boots are a bear. They are just rubber boots and they basically vulcanize to the spark plug. I have to say that if you done much moving on those stock wires they are probably already destroyed.

Be sure to put thermal paste on the threads of the new spark plugs. Not Anti-Seize or anything else. Thermal paste only. Very important.

A good set of Iridium spark plugs is also well worth the little extra money.

The suggestion of removing the air cleaner is also a very good idea. Remove the top half and remove the retaining bolts that go into the throttle body. Then you can get enough movement on the lower half of the air box to do what you need to do without removing it completely.

Good luck.

[NancysToy]

You can try twisting it carefully, but as Ron said, it may be hopeless. the airbox off, you may be able to sneak in there with spark plug boot pliers (from your auto parts store). New (BajaRon) wires, and the use of a small amount of spark plug boot release (dielectric grease) inside the new boot should make things better the next time around.

[Spyder-Bob]

Order the new wires for sure the OEM boots on mine I had to cut off even with the air box removed.

Ron has excellent wires for sale.

[eddieshep999]

Order the new wires for sure the OEM boots on mine I had to cut off even with the air box removed.

Ron has excellent wires for sale.

I agree

I only had my Spyder RT-S SE5 2010 Model a few months when threads stated to appear with reference to the quality of the OEM
HT Leads and how they could be damaged just trying to remove them - Rather than wait for that to happen and have my Spyder
off the road awaiting replacements I order a set from Ron long before my spark plugs needed replacing and have been well pleased with them

Anyone know if BRP have upgraded the HT Leads for the 2013 models if not Suggest Rons HT Leads are fitted sooner rather than later

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

[NorthStar]

Order the new wires for sure the OEM boots on mine I had to cut off even with the air box removed.

Ron has excellent wires for sale.

Freeing up the Front Cylinder spark plug boot from the plug is just not happening. I too will need to remove the air box and side lateral support in order to get in there with a knife to be able to separate the boot from the plug. The new wires and iridium plugs, courtesy of BAJARON, are sitting in my nephews office in Auburn Hills Michigan and he will transport them across the border next week for me.
Anybody have a tip for routing the wire differently for future maintenance ease, or is it "just what it is".

[NancysToy]

Freeing up the Front Cylinder spark plug boot from the plug is just not happening. I too will need to remove the air box and side lateral support in order to get in there with a knife to be able to separate the boot from the plug. The new wires and iridium plugs, courtesy of BAJARON, are sitting in my nephews office in Auburn Hills Michigan and he will transport them across the border next week for me.
Anybody have a tip for routing the wire differently for future maintenance ease, or is it "just what it is".

I wouldn't reroute the wires, but Ron may have other advice. Just be sure to use the boot release (dielectric grease) sparingly inside the new boot. That will keep this from happening again. I use a Q-tip to apply the boot release. Don't forget the heat sink compund on the plug threads, too. Isn't changing plugs on an RT a joy?

[eddieshep999]

Anybody have a tip for routing the wire differently for future maintenance ease, or is it "just what it is".

When I changed out my HT Leads last year I posted the following information ref routing the most difficult HT to get to
(The dreaded one near the Air Box)

I agree about moving the HT lead from between the Heads I also rerouted mine

I changed mine out with the help of a friend (An experienced Mechanic)

The shorter wire was easy as the Cylinder was closest

The far cylinder was more difficult and we did consider having to remove the Airbox to get access - Could not see where the HT wire went as mine was threaded between the cylinders and back into the cylinder head

I kept moving the lead and we could see it above the cylinder and realised it could be done from the same side - a little tight but with the correct Plug socket and small extensions it was removed and the new plug and lead installed

Getting the old wire out was difficult although it was not zipped tied the protective sleeving kept jamming against the 2 cylinders
We cut some of this sleeving off and managed to get the old HT wire out

With the new lead it goes from the Coil direct to the far cylinder - It is zipped tied away from the cylinder head and because of this it will be easier next time to get the boot off and replace the Spark Plugs on both cylinders

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

I think it is zipped tied using the cross member so its kept away from the Hot cylinder head - it then drops down to connect into the
cylinder and the spark plug - This also means that any future changed can be done from the LHS (None Air box side)

There have been no issues with the re-routing - Engine runs fine and as far as I can tell no heat issues with the re-routing of the
HT lead as in the description above

[Bob Denman]

I wouldn't suggest moving to "Plan B" too quickly!