**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[napper39]

i know but too many new riders have not read this .

[Wiredux]

Is there a way that this can be made sticky? I have been looking for this thread and just finally found it. Lots of good info here.

[napper39]

bump this can help new riders so take it back to the top

[Netminder]

Copy and paste it to a word doc or notes(iPad users). That way you can have it on hand or print it. That is what I did as it is valuable info!

[Wiredux]

Copy and paste it to a word doc or notes(iPad users). That way you can have it on hand or print it. That is what I did as it is valuable info!

Great idea!

[quickster47]

There is certainly some thorough, well thought out, sage advise in this thread. And being a new RT Limited owner it is very much appreciated.

Carl

[pickelhead]

The first bike I had was a Honda 350. You had to red line it to get power out of it, the brakes were so bad that if you used the fooot brake as a foot rest, when you needed it, Nada, zero, zip brakes. The last bike i had was a Honda VFR, Its power band was 4000 - 8000 rpm. It liked to be kept near red line. I had it in Europe, where when there were speed limits, they were more like suggestions. Before I even got my Spyder, I down loaded the owners manual and the PDF file showing all the different parts and system schematics. Very good information, but this thread should be included in the Owners Manual.

[napper39]

bump some cant find this so here it is

[Elembytes]

Thank you for posting these for NEWBIES and as some say the OLDIES too. Great insight and tips!

Believe it or not- this "NEWBIE" who doesn't even own a SPYDER RT (YET) has already read the complete owner's manual already.

I also live on a gravel road and was thinking of getting a belt shield Thankfully I'd only have to go 2 miles TOPS on gravel! Still though that worries me- about belts and so forth.

I also worry about the low ground clearance and fuel economy or lack thereof on this but also understand too it is almost 1000 pounds etc.

Thanks again for the GREAT TIPS!

[NurseCrickett]

Thank you for this "Do and Do Not" list - its a GREAT tool for us newbies.

I'm actually new to bikes, the Spyder being my first, so please excuse my ignorance, but I have a question........

My Spyder is an RT Limited (LOVE IT!!) - since I didn't see that specific model listed in the "Do and Do Nots", is it safe to assume those things all apply to my bike too?


Thank you!
Crickett

[Jeriatric]

Thank you for this "Do and Do Not" list - its a GREAT tool for us newbies.

I'm actually new to bikes, the Spyder being my first, so please excuse my ignorance, but I have a question........

My Spyder is an RT Limited (LOVE IT!!) - since I didn't see that specific model listed in the "Do and Do Nots", is it safe to assume those things all apply to my bike too?


Thank you!
Crickett

Short answer is Yes and a big Hi neighbor.

[mcaccamise]

There is a wealth of knowledge here for me being a nube with only 300 miles on my RSS-SM5 i love it though its a big change from my past rides HD Touring.
Getting used to shifting at higher rpms seems to be my biggest challenge keeping the revs above 5000 seems like the engine is screaming although it likes the higher rpms im learning
and love the new experience on three wheels and being involved with a great group of knowledable people here Thanks for thhe Do"s and Donts its a great help and agreat read.
Mike

[TasmanianDevil]

This thread is a Tas saver. I didn't know anyone when I had my Tas delivered to my home. I had never ridden one. I have ridden mcs for 30+ years so I wasn't concerned UNTIL I READ THE MANUAL. After reading this, I spend hours soaking up the valuable knowledge un this site.
Thanks so much, Sarah

[CWilber]

(RS-S Rider)
Although on a Spyder you don't have to adhere to the two-wheeler rule of not braking in the curve, if you are making a left turn at a good speed, you should do so. All your weight is on your right foot and it is difficult to lift it to put it on the brake if you decide midway that you are going too fast.

When riding somewhere like the Tail of the Dragon, if you really power out of the turn in 1st, that is when the stabilization system kicks in and you get the sensation that you are sliding. Better to be consistent through the turn.

If you find that your fingers are going to sleep then you are either holding on too tight or your wrist is bent.

If you add risers to your RS, you will probably want to also get mirror extensions as they place your hand right in the middle of the stock mirrors.

Check out Lamont's IPS for your key.

Most importantly, have fun and ride safe!

[Arthur---Mexico]

I suspected that I was riding the right foot operated brake. To really find out if this was so I installed a bright blue LED on the dash on my SE5 GS and wired it in the circuit of the brake light. Anytime the foot brake is actuated the least little bit the LED turns on. I found that I was NOT riding the foot brake. It's an easy and low cost improvement. Arthur---Mexico City.

[Illinois Boy]

(RS-S Rider)
Although on a Spyder you don't have to adhere to the two-wheeler rule of not braking in the curve, if you are making a left turn at a good speed, you should do so. All your weight is on your right foot and it is difficult to lift it to put it on the brake if you decide midway that you are going too fast.

When riding somewhere like the Tail of the Dragon, if you really power out of the turn in 1st, that is when the stabilization system kicks in and you get the sensation that you are sliding. Better to be consistent through the turn.

If you find that your fingers are going to sleep then you are either holding on too tight or your wrist is bent.

If you add risers to your RS, you will probably want to also get mirror extensions as they place your hand right in the middle of the stock mirrors.

Check out Lamont's IPS for your key.

Most importantly, have fun and ride safe!

Not disagreeing... You should always enter a corner with your machine set-up in the correct gear (preferably a lower one than what you approached the curve with so you have reserve power and the lower-gear can be used to decelerate some with a slight roll-off of the throttle without having to touch the brake); and at the right entry-speed to make sure you can negotiate the machine throughout it.

Then apply power mid-curve to accelerate out of the remaining curve. (This is "generally" the teachings of rider/driver and safety courses for most vehicles.)

On a Spyder, if you find you have not set-up correctly and are going too fast in a curve, you can apply brake in a corner... do so just enough to get the machine back in control -- and try not to do that twice. Otherwise try using a slight roll-off of the throttle first (assuming you entered the curve at a lower-gear than you approached the corner with.)

However the reference to dragging the brake in the "Do's & Do Not's" is in regard to those who keep their foot on the brake constantly or are prone to "tapping" their brakes constantly. That is a very bad habit no matter what the vehicle is. (Unless you are a professional rider who knows exactly what they are doing with their brakes and the pressure they are applying at any moment. Most of us are not professionals though; at least not as much as one's ego might want to believe we are.)

Dragging the brake in a curve on a Spyder can especially confuse it; since you are turning, accelerating, and braking at the same time. The machine doesn't know what the heck you are asking it to do... and may let you know it doesn't like it someday.

[smoky]

I have never seen a better set of "to do and not" rules...BRP should incorporate this into all Spyder operator's manuals...I know...some of it's already there but this is worded so well....smoky

[Illinois Boy]

Glad you thought it would help...

As it says... this information has been taken from advice given by some of the more experienced Spyder owners, and some of my own experience.

We'll keep adding to it as we move along...

[chris56]

last small thing .. if you use the cruise control on higher speed
and touch the brakes - also just a little - the system will switch off the cruise control - when the throttle is on zero the engine will produce a strong brake .. my girl hates that

[jmstiffany]

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

That is kind of hard to do when you live on a gravel road. I have 1 1/2 miles of gravel that i ride on almost every day.

[StanProff]

Nanny is what kicks in when you go around a curve or corner to fast and the wheel starts to come up. Then Nanny kicks in and slows you down to bring that wheel back down. I have had it happen to me a couple of times. It will throw you a little forward if you are not expecting it.

The Nanny has saved me from embarressment more that a couple of times. Your riding method can cause it to kick in a little sooner at times. I have found that a smooth exit around a corner while applying the throttle is less likely to cause the nanny to kick in as opposed to hitting the throttle a little two hard in the middle of the curve. All in all I think it has saved my butt a couple of times in the twisties and I am glad to have the nanny on board with me. I think it is good to get in a large parking lot and practice going in circles etc. and get used to the feel of the nanny so you know what to expect if she kicks in. In normal non-agressive riding you may never have it kick in.

[billpowell]

Great info, thanks much

[napper39]

too good yo let it go back to the bottem so bumpbump

[Ken Thomas]

yiks oh yeh here i am with my 2cents,rember check your battery cable often it vibrates loose,and a loose cable can be a night mare,check your fusess and relays they vibrate loose,and thats a very bad thing.so lets say you dont chsck these things,you have trouble on the road wont run so you have it towed to a dealer they push in the relay or tighten up the battery cable.if you would have done these things you would not have had to wait for that tow truck,or had the dealer tell you i pushed in that relay and your good to go.so do these things and you might never have any trouble with your spyder ever. have fun and ride like the wind. i do.

Miss my 1970 Comando.

[Navy Warrant]

Getting my RT-S SE5 in a coupla days. Trying to learn as much as possible in the mean time. Any thoughts or advice about the break-in period?