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  1. #26
    Very Active Member MMcc's Avatar
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    Default Monitor brake fluid level

    If the brake fluid level gets a little low you will get a brake failure notice scrolling on the screen. Check the fluid level before you panic. Add fluid to almost overflowing and the brake failure notice should disappear when you restart. If this does not correct the problem then see your dealer.

  2. #27
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buttsy View Post
    I think one of the real "keys" to Spyder ownership is to ensure you learn as much about the Spyder as possible on your own. Buying a Spyder and assuming your dealer will look after everything for you seems reasonable because of the dollars we are spending but...........you need to be informed. This forum along with all its great knowledge does more for "customer care" than anything a dealer or BRP can do for you.

    You don't need to be a master mechanic as people like Lamont and Scotty offer great details in for the most "laymen" terms. Then when you go to the dealer you can ask intelligent fact based questions just to make sure everything is going as planned. I really do think the a little bit of knowledege when it comes to these machines is invaluable.

    Read, Ask, Listen and get informed first.
    Well said When you're spending this kind of money on something you should be as knowledgeable as possible PRIOR to you purchase; then you don't have as , many questions or regrets or if onlys after the sale
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!


    2014 RS SM 5


    My mods: trailer hitch, outlets for GPS and I-touch to listen to music with. Mad Stad 22 in touring windshield, clear protective wrap on side panels and behind steering head, neoprene grip cushions, Bead rider seat cushion, Smooth Spyder backrest, Day Long seat, Time out trailer, Garmin 660.

  3. #28
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    #2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
    The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

    It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

    I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

    I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

    but your info is great otherwise

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2manycars View Post
    I started shifting at a higher RPM and found it shifted much smoother. I guess for me somewhere around 3500-4000 works well. I used to try to keep the RPMS as low as I could to "help my gas mileage," but discovered I seem to do better at higher RPMs.

    It is difficult to get used to the engine revving as high as it does at highway speeds, but as you and many others have said, the engine does seem to like it there.

    I know 9000 is the red line, but realistically how high should the engine go for maximum efficiency in each gear? Should I back off of the throttle at all when I shift , or always keep it steady?

    Riding the brake was an issue for me, and now my wife initially, but I installed a set of Seal floorboards and it makes it much easier to stay off of the brake.

    I had an RT a bit ago and sold it, and with my new one I am trying to get the most out of it that I can.

    Thanks
    I would suggest you shift just like on any other bike IE close the throttle and shift up as for the RPM when shifting ? these bikes start the power band near 5000rpm so I shift after or near 45 to 5 the unit runs near 70 near 5 but will run up to the set red line and then the rpm limiter will kick in
    Main thing is DON'T LUG the motor let it run the higher the rpm the smoother mine is lunging can place unneeded stress on things best advice "ride it like you stole it"

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRH View Post
    When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

    I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

    I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

    As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

    This was a great post, thank you!
    Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

    Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

    Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

    Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!"

    SL #7026
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    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  6. #31
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    Okay... I keep adding suggestions. Thanks guys.

    Please keep in mind we are only talking about "stock" Spyders and only basic ideas that are on a "must do or don't do" basis for new ryders. Customization and other performance ideas would not be what we are looking for... since they are endless and personal; and are constantly changing.

    SL #7026
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    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  7. #32
    Registered Users donec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post
    try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH.
    Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?
    2013 Pure Magnesium Spyder RS-SM5 Cal Sci medium clear windshield, R-35 hard sided saddlebags and fitments rack, 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST Limited Embroidered Stock Seat, Trunk opening spring, fire extinguisher, Passenger backrest and rack, Added side mirrors, Handlebar bag.

  8. #33
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    Default Fantastic Post

    You guys are great, being a newbe, I have learned alot on the do's and don'ts on Spyder riding. BRP built great machines, as far I am concern. I take extra care of Spyder, I clean it after every ride with a spray detailer and put a cover on it.
    SPYDERLOVERS.COM IS A GREAT WEBSITE.

  9. #34
    Registered Users iSpyder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Thanks for this great info!

    Waiting to pick up my first Spyder any day now. Can't wait to hit the road a little and start getting used to it. This forum and posts like these are just awesome for newbies like me!
    Thank you!
    -iSpyder
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARCTIC View Post
    Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

    DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

    I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

    The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by donec View Post
    Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?
    I believe so... sorry about that.

    SL #7026
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    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by donec View Post
    Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?
    That is correct.

  13. #38
    Very Active Member daveinva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudley View Post
    Never roll back on the throttle when shifting an SE5.
    This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! )
    Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!

  14. #39
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    Default "Do's and Do Nots"

    Great thread. Many of US assume alot of things but having that check list in front of us sure helps.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post
    I believe so... sorry about that.
    This would only be the RT SE5 correct? I dont recall seeing anything in the menus on my RT SM5.



    Josh

    PS. List is a great idea.
    Last edited by Camdenlake; 07-02-2012 at 10:07 AM.

  16. #41
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) pslawing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daveinva View Post
    This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! )

    What "the Nanny" loving this tread learning a great deal. Going in for my 600 mile service this week. Have a list of questions for the service guy.

  17. #42
    Registered Users NoJive's Avatar
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    I just ordered the belt guard myself. I live on about a 1/2 mile of gravel/dirt road, and I guess I have been lucky and had no issues in the couple weeks I have owned my . I'm hoping the belt guard works well, as I don't know anything else to do besides slow down.

    BTW, this is an awesome thread.

    Jive


    Quote Originally Posted by ARCTIC View Post
    Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

    DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

    I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard
    Last edited by NoJive; 07-02-2012 at 11:21 AM.

  18. #43
    Very Active Member chris56's Avatar
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    42.000 kms in the alps - no problems
    I never checked my oil or my batterie or my fuses .. ( 2 times in the year it goes for service..)
    only one limb mode made by a friend (rode the brakes) - never seen one by myselve
    if I have to follow my friends (most of BMWs) I have no time think about my gearbox -
    (they hate if they have to wait for someone in their no HD-riders "group" ..
    here you see a "normal" RT - ryde
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/m...etails&mid=276
    Ryker 900 - Fox-shock - TOYO - larger shield - 2up & a topace

  19. #44
    Active Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Cool

    Nice value added post. Glad to find it.

    "Tigger" 2011 RS-S Alloy Orange/Matte Black (hers)
    "Hammer Head" 2012 RoadGlide Custom (his)

  20. #45
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) pslawing's Avatar
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    What's the Nanny?

  21. #46
    Registered Users quickster47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pslawing View Post
    What's the Nanny?
    ECU = Engine Control Unit
    ECM = Engine Control Manager

    The electronic brain that controls the Spyder.

    Carl
    Last edited by quickster47; 07-02-2012 at 08:05 PM.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by pslawing View Post
    What's the Nanny?
    Nanny is what kicks in when you go around a curve or corner to fast and the wheel starts to come up. Then Nanny kicks in and slows you down to bring that wheel back down. I have had it happen to me a couple of times. It will throw you a little forward if you are not expecting it.
    Grandpa Spyder 2015 F3S
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  23. #48
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    i just checked the new posts and there are moore new riders that need to read this so bump take it to the top. ride like the wind

  24. #49
    Very Active Member MRH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post
    Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

    Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

    Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

    Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!"
    It's taken me a few days to respond to this - my wife and I took the Spyder up to Big Sur for a couple of days (leaving from Santa Ynez, 170 very picturesque miles each way). Very, very fun.

    I learned to stay far from the brake very early on, but the high RPMs are new for me. On this trip, I took a completely different approach and ran the bike between about 5000 and 7000 RPM most of the time, often only going from third to fourth when I hit 60-65mph (I don't think I touched fifth gear once). It does fool you in the 4000's and makes you feel as though you are pushing it, but once you pass the low 5000's it really smooths out and rides better than it ever has for me in the past - it's like getting a free upgrade!

    Ironically, I recall asking my dealer when to shift before my test ride, and the questions wasn't treated with a whole lot of respect, so I shifted when it felt right (pretty much what they said, I think), which would have been in high 3000's or the 4000's. Now, I'm trying not to shift under 5000, and prefer hitting at least 6000 first. I wish somebody has told me that from day one - but I'll settle for learning it now. Hopefully others will benefit from this thread.

    Thanks again.

  25. #50
    Registered Users ocfire82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daisyjoe View Post
    The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me
    I have 19000 miles on my 08 and ride about 5 miles of gravel every time I go for a ride.

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