"Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

[MMcc]

If the brake fluid level gets a little low you will get a brake failure notice scrolling on the screen. Check the fluid level before you panic. Add fluid to almost overflowing and the brake failure notice should disappear when you restart. If this does not correct the problem then see your dealer.

[IGETAROUND]

I think one of the real "keys" to Spyder ownership is to ensure you learn as much about the Spyder as possible on your own. Buying a Spyder and assuming your dealer will look after everything for you seems reasonable because of the dollars we are spending but...........you need to be informed. This forum along with all its great knowledge does more for "customer care" than anything a dealer or BRP can do for you.

You don't need to be a master mechanic as people like Lamont and Scotty offer great details in for the most "laymen" terms. Then when you go to the dealer you can ask intelligent fact based questions just to make sure everything is going as planned. I really do think the a little bit of knowledege when it comes to these machines is invaluable.

Read, Ask, Listen and get informed first.

Well said When you're spending this kind of money on something you should be as knowledgeable as possible PRIOR to you purchase; then you don't have as , many questions or regrets or if onlys after the sale

[angel]

#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

but your info is great otherwise

[angel]

I started shifting at a higher RPM and found it shifted much smoother. I guess for me somewhere around 3500-4000 works well. I used to try to keep the RPMS as low as I could to "help my gas mileage," but discovered I seem to do better at higher RPMs.

It is difficult to get used to the engine revving as high as it does at highway speeds, but as you and many others have said, the engine does seem to like it there.

I know 9000 is the red line, but realistically how high should the engine go for maximum efficiency in each gear? Should I back off of the throttle at all when I shift , or always keep it steady?

Riding the brake was an issue for me, and now my wife initially, but I installed a set of Seal floorboards and it makes it much easier to stay off of the brake.

I had an RT a bit ago and sold it, and with my new one I am trying to get the most out of it that I can.

Thanks

I would suggest you shift just like on any other bike IE close the throttle and shift up as for the RPM when shifting ? these bikes start the power band near 5000rpm so I shift after or near 45 to 5 the unit runs near 70 near 5 but will run up to the set red line and then the rpm limiter will kick in
Main thing is DON'T LUG the motor let it run the higher the rpm the smoother mine is lunging can place unneeded stress on things best advice "ride it like you stole it"

[Illinois Boy]

When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

This was a great post, thank you!

Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!"

[Illinois Boy]

Okay... I keep adding suggestions. Thanks guys.

Please keep in mind we are only talking about "stock" Spyders and only basic ideas that are on a "must do or don't do" basis for new ryders. Customization and other performance ideas would not be what we are looking for... since they are endless and personal; and are constantly changing.

[donec]

try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH.

Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?

[michael88]

You guys are great, being a newbe, I have learned alot on the do's and don'ts on Spyder riding. BRP built great machines, as far I am concern. I take extra care of Spyder, I clean it after every ride with a spray detailer and put a cover on it.
SPYDERLOVERS.COM IS A GREAT WEBSITE.

[iSpyder]

Waiting to pick up my first Spyder any day now. Can't wait to hit the road a little and start getting used to it. This forum and posts like these are just awesome for newbies like me!
Thank you!

[Daisyjoe]

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me

[Illinois Boy]

Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?

I believe so... sorry about that.

[Bob Denman]

Trailer-mode is only for RT correct?

That is correct.

[daveinva]

Never roll back on the throttle when shifting an SE5.

This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! )

[Mr. Duece]

Great thread. Many of US assume alot of things but having that check list in front of us sure helps.

[Camdenlake]

I believe so... sorry about that.

This would only be the RT SE5 correct? I dont recall seeing anything in the menus on my RT SM5.



Josh

PS. List is a great idea.

[pslawing]

This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! )

What "the Nanny" loving this tread learning a great deal. Going in for my 600 mile service this week. Have a list of questions for the service guy.

[NoJive]

I just ordered the belt guard myself. I live on about a 1/2 mile of gravel/dirt road, and I guess I have been lucky and had no issues in the couple weeks I have owned my . I'm hoping the belt guard works well, as I don't know anything else to do besides slow down.

BTW, this is an awesome thread.

Jive

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

[chris56]

42.000 kms in the alps - no problems
I never checked my oil or my batterie or my fuses .. ( 2 times in the year it goes for service..)
only one limb mode made by a friend (rode the brakes) - never seen one by myselve
if I have to follow my friends (most of BMWs) I have no time think about my gearbox -
(they hate if they have to wait for someone in their no HD-riders "group" ..
here you see a "normal" RT - ryde
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/m...etails&mid=276

[Tigger]

Nice value added post. Glad to find it.

[pslawing]

What's the Nanny?

[quickster47]

What's the Nanny?

ECU = Engine Control Unit
ECM = Engine Control Manager

The electronic brain that controls the Spyder.

Carl

[Grandpa Spyder]

What's the Nanny?

Nanny is what kicks in when you go around a curve or corner to fast and the wheel starts to come up. Then Nanny kicks in and slows you down to bring that wheel back down. I have had it happen to me a couple of times. It will throw you a little forward if you are not expecting it.

[napper39]

i just checked the new posts and there are moore new riders that need to read this so bump take it to the top. ride like the wind

[MRH]

Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!"

It's taken me a few days to respond to this - my wife and I took the Spyder up to Big Sur for a couple of days (leaving from Santa Ynez, 170 very picturesque miles each way). Very, very fun.

I learned to stay far from the brake very early on, but the high RPMs are new for me. On this trip, I took a completely different approach and ran the bike between about 5000 and 7000 RPM most of the time, often only going from third to fourth when I hit 60-65mph (I don't think I touched fifth gear once). It does fool you in the 4000's and makes you feel as though you are pushing it, but once you pass the low 5000's it really smooths out and rides better than it ever has for me in the past - it's like getting a free upgrade!

Ironically, I recall asking my dealer when to shift before my test ride, and the questions wasn't treated with a whole lot of respect, so I shifted when it felt right (pretty much what they said, I think), which would have been in high 3000's or the 4000's. Now, I'm trying not to shift under 5000, and prefer hitting at least 6000 first. I wish somebody has told me that from day one - but I'll settle for learning it now. Hopefully others will benefit from this thread.

Thanks again.

[ocfire82]

The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me

I have 19000 miles on my 08 and ride about 5 miles of gravel every time I go for a ride.