**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[ScreaminMeanie]

No offense, but it was assumed you would let the throttle go to idle for the auto-downshift. Glad you finally discovered that. The Spyder can be sensitive to conflicting inputs; such as holding a throttle on while braking. The Nanny will eventually shut down the system if it is repeated enough times or for long enough.

Ride often, safe, and aware!

No offense taken. I'm just curious as to who assumed that? The manufacturer? Since the "absolute zero" throttle is not a requirement for any other vehicle on the road (2- or 4-wheeled), why would they assume that a brand new Spyder rider would just know? For those of us who are.....shall we say, "active"....drivers/riders, maintaining a little throttle while downshifting is as much a safety measure as it is a performance measure. On any other vehicle, aside from possibly being a little less fuel efficient, there is no downside to having a few extra revs at your disposal should you find yourself in an emergency situation and suddenly have the need to accelerate.

[Illinois Boy]

No offense taken. I'm just curious as to who assumed that? The manufacturer? Since the "absolute zero" throttle is not a requirement for any other vehicle on the road (2- or 4-wheeled), why would they assume that a brand new Spyder rider would just know? For those of us who are.....shall we say, "active"....drivers/riders, maintaining a little throttle while downshifting is as much a safety measure as it is a performance measure. On any other vehicle, aside from possibly being a little less fuel efficient, there is no downside to having a few extra revs at your disposal should you find yourself in an emergency situation and suddenly have the need to accelerate.

I haven't heard others having the problem you speak of. This is the first I have heard of it. Most people reduce their throttle some on vehicles when manually downshifting; which is all that was meant by the comment.

I honestly cannot remember if I put the throttle to zero on the Spyder before downshifting or not. I will check. It seems sometimes you just do things without thought, so I will have to check. Glad you discovered your problem though. I do not disagree about manually downshifting though with regard to having some power at the throttle if needed. Many accidents occur at or near stopping points or places where speed is reduced. Being able to get out of the situation in a hurry can make the difference. My biggest fear for Spyder riders is when someone doesn't take the potential dangers seriously enough. The same for any vehicle.

[ScreaminMeanie]

Right, when manually downshifting (even on the semi-automatic), you don't have to go to full off on the throttle. Never experienced a problem when downshifting manually, only when letting it downshift automatically for me. Like I said, the more speed/revs you are carrying when you initiate the full stop, the more likely it is that the auto-downshift will not downshift if the throttle is even slightly cracked open.

Also, around here there are a lot of highway speed roads with traffic signals at 1-mile intervals. It's common to be zipping along at 55-60 mph and need to make a sudden stop because one of those signals goes to yellow (and we seem to have very short yellow cycles here). I think the frequency of events like those is why I was able to finally make the connection. Of course, I always let off on the throttle when stopping; it's just that last 1/32" of engagement that I never knew was critical to allowing the nanny to property operate in the auto-downshift mode until enough repetition of ending up at a full stop in something higher than first gear caused me to have the light bulb come on. Combine that with the leaning-forward position on the RS and the fact that I had to reach pretty far forward for the bars, and you can see that without completely letting go of the right bar and throttle sleeve, there is good opportunity for leaving it just the tiniest bit engaged.

I rode two wheels for many years before switching to the Spyder, and I have never been a particularly sedate rider/driver. The RS, with its sporty configuration, is very conducive to non-sedate riding. I wonder if I will become any more sedate once I get my RT.

[ScreaminMeanie]

Aaaand, I just answered my own question. No, I will not be any more sedate.

I really appreciate the OP, particularly the part about not letting off the throttle to UPshift. I had always done that on my RS, but I tried *not* letting off while riding around today, and it does make a HUGE difference in how smooth the shifts are.

[chamberlain]

Thank you for the OP. My 2012 RS-S was (and still is) my first experience outside of a car...

...and I just learned that I have been shifting wrong since day 1. Better later then never.

[nrg_pop]

First and foremost let me say thank you for this information Illinois Boy. I read this before I even purchased my Spyder, and it helped me more than I can say. Heck, I even knew more about the bike than the guy I bought it off of. Nonetheless, I had read it two more times after I purchased my bike and for some reason (probably not thinking it applied to me) I did not remember anything about the battery. So after two trips where I got lost I decide to get a battery tender so I could power my GPS and phone. So me, being the genius that I am, decided that it wasn't rocket science, and I could hook this up with ease. I connected the positive first, and then I went to the negative terminal and started loosening the bolt, but it wouldn't come out, and it wouldn't go back in. It just kept spinning. I figured that the idiots at the shop must have messed it up and left the last guy with the problem since he told me they changed his battery. So I head to Lowes, and I get a nice little drill bit to extract the bolt so I can put a new one on. Well, I drilled and drilled but it barely made a hole, and it still wasn't coming out so I got scared that I would really mess something up so I said bump it, I will just wait until I can take it to the shop and let them figure it out. So last night I couldn't sleep at 2 a.m. so I, of course, come to spyderlovers.com and decide to read over this forum one more time just to gain more knowledge. As I get to the battery part, I see where you said never to hook anything up to the negative terminal or loosen it. My first thought was "oh spit(with an "h" and not the "p"). Then I click on the link and read the woes of others that had this problem and I was like "really". Well, my further reading helped me to actually install the battery tender that has been hanging on the positive terminal for the last 3 weeks, in about 10 mins this afternoon. So in the end I learned a valuable lesson. I will not only read my owners manual like you said (which I did) but I am also going to come here and research whatever I am doing just in case. Thanks again.
Nick

[JCWeatherman]

I looked at Spyders 3 years before taking the plunge. When I saw the new ST in 2013, I knew that was what I would own someday. It was a bit pricey for me, but I figured that some day it would happen.

This summer (2015), my wife and I decided it was time. I found a 2013 ST Limited for sale, and we decided to take a look at it. I test drove it and fell in love. Truth be told, I had no idea how to ride it. I had watched a video that showed how to start it, but after that, it was all new to me. The owner was very patient, but he really didn't tell me a whole lot. Unfortunately, we were not able to buy that Spyder because of a problem with the title.

With this little experience, I went home and read this post. I was found out the mistakes that I made. The next day I purchased a used 2013 ST Limited at Hollinger's Sport and Turf in Ephrata, PA. I started asking questions based on what I read in this post, and the sales man decided I should talk to Josh, the mechanic. Josh spend about 45 minutes taking us through all of the ST's features (even how to use the radio presets). We discussed shift points and running characteristics. He confirmed much of that this post says.

As a new Spyder owner, I have referred back to this post a few times. It is very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to write the post

Thanks,
John

[STFavor1]

Just read the "Do's & Do Not's" for New Spyder Owners. Thank you so much for the thread. Very informative with helpful information.

[Wildrice]

The garage stall I park my F3's in has a motorcycle & riding lawn mower parked in front of it. Thus when I need to mow the lawn I need to move the Spyder out of the garage to exit the riding lawn mower. Instead of starting the Spyder I just release the parking brake & push the F3's out by hand a few feet standing on the left side of the Spyder. Well I had the front wheels turned a bit toward the down hill sloping driveway.

I gave the Spyder a little harder push than normal & the Spyder takes off rolling down the hill with me on the left side of it. Being a motor cycle rider I grab for the handle bar brake to stop instantly reminding myself there is no hand brake. So here I go running after the Spyder when is rolling 5 mph+ & chased it to the end of the driveway before I could hop on and apply the foot brake. I'm sure I was fun to watch chasing the runaway Spyder

[garyraphael]

At least you caught it time


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[Old Geezer]

First and foremost - a huge thanks for information on this forum. I just picked up my 2015 RT LTD yesterday afternoon. I still have a goofy grin stuck on my face after the ride home. I spent several hours reading this forum prior to my purchase. I can't thank you guys/gals enough for all of the riding tips and general machine information. As a bike rider for 45+ years I was concerned about the transition. Because of everyone's help it was almost seemless. As soon as I feel I have had enough experience to make any reasonable contributions, I will do my best to return the favor.

[sandeejs]

. I'm sure I was fun to watch chasing the runaway Spyder

No pic, no runaway Spyder!
~Sandee~

[peterRT]

Thanks mate for the writeup!

[Fasttrip]

Thanks for the post, don't miss my 750 Vulcan at all.

[lou49]

[Shortcut]

I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

So if I take my Spyder in for a check-up or repairs I don't have to use the one I purchased it from for items under warranty?

[Shortcut]

Yes....

EDIT: Also you may find when operating at higher RPM's is you will not have the belt-vibration problem commonly heard about from Spyder owners. My first thought when reading about belt-vibrations is that these individuals are likely running at too low of RPM's most of the time for the gear they are in. Belt vibrations typically occur in the 5,000 to 5,500 RPM range. At that RPM range, the Spyder should be in 4th gear if you are cruising at that pace. Higher RPM's while in the "right" gear doesn't guarantee no vibrations; but you'll find belt vibrations are very infrequent.

Try this advice for a while and see if your experience with your Spyder doesn't "go-up" a notch or two. I believe it will...

So what about 6th gear on my semi-automatic? It seems that you suggest not even doing 5th gear under 65mph?

[Illinois Boy]

So what about 6th gear on my semi-automatic? It seems that you suggest not even doing 5th gear under 65mph?

If you have a 6th gear, then you have the 1300 engine; in which case you do not follow shifting and rpm instructions for the 998 engine.

Instead, look for where shifting the 1300 instructions are. Basically, you will find you can shift at lower rpm's with the 1300.

As far as sixth-gear, that is your final highway gear; which, of course will be at higher speeds. However, remember, you do not always need to use all of the gears all of the time. Sometimes around town you may never use 6th gear; and personally, I never use it before reaching 65 mph -- just like I don't use 6th gear on my Harley until I reach higher speeds.

Basically, with the 1300, you should be able to feel if you are in the correct gear for you speed and acceleration. If it feels somewhat sluggish, then downshift.

Hope this helps.

[Illinois Boy]

So if I take my Spyder in for a check-up or repairs I don't have to use the one I purchased it from for items under warranty?

Depends on the warranty you purchased. However, a BRP warranty is taken care of at any authorized dealer; just like it is with any just about any manufacturer.

Personally, I buy where I get my work done. I find it to be a more "harmonious" relationship, and supports those dealers who are providing good service. Just my opinion, but you know the story about opinions.

[malecrisis]

So I just bought a 2014 spyder rs sm5 and was reading through the do's and don't for new spyder riders lots of great info but can't seem to find anything specific to the sm5 manual transmission it focuses on the semiautomatic. What speed and gear are outher riders using. Is this a high rev machine? I'm coming off a Harley vrod and the shifting points seem way diffrent. Any feed back would be grate

[Illinois Boy]

So I just bought a 2014 spyder rs sm5 and was reading through the do's and don't for new spyder riders lots of great info but can't seem to find anything specific to the sm5 manual transmission it focuses on the semiautomatic. What speed and gear are outher riders using. Is this a high rev machine? I'm coming off a Harley vrod and the shifting points seem way diffrent. Any feed back would be grate

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

[malecrisis]

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

Thanks for the feed back will give it a try gonna be hard convincing myself to ride the RPMS into the 4500 5000 range

[NoJive]

I'd like to suggest that you add that the vacuum lines could be a problem on the manual transmission Spyders as well. My 2012 RTS was running like crap, and found both lines cracked. Put new lines in, and it runs like a top. It seems like this could be a common problem, due to the front line going right across the cylinder head!

[Illinois Boy]

I'd like to suggest that you add that the vacuum lines could be a problem on the manual transmission Spyders as well. My 2012 RTS was running like crap, and found both lines cracked. Put new lines in, and it runs like a top. It seems like this could be a common problem, due to the front line going right across the cylinder head!

It is mentioned within the text, but is specific to SE5 & 6. I will change it to include manual shift as well.

SE5/SE6 shifting problems / Cracked Vacuum Hoses:
Cracked (dry-rotted) vacuum hoses are related to shifting problems on the SE5's. Heat seems to be the culprit.
Have these checked regularly as part of your maintenance program and replace them if needed.
No reports on the 2014 1330's yet; but this may remain an issue despite the improved cooling system.

[NoJive]

Nice, and thanks for the list. This was one of the first things I read when I got my used '08 GS. I sold it last year, and included a copy of the list with the bike to help the new owners.

It is mentioned within the text, but is specific to SE5 & 6. I will change it to include manual shift as well.

SE5/SE6 shifting problems / Cracked Vacuum Hoses:
Cracked (dry-rotted) vacuum hoses are related to shifting problems on the SE5's. Heat seems to be the culprit.
Have these checked regularly as part of your maintenance program and replace them if needed.
No reports on the 2014 1330's yet; but this may remain an issue despite the improved cooling system.