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09-05-2014, 12:38 AM
#251
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by mike5511
P.S. Can you buy a service manual for the Spyder?
Your best bet quality wise is to buy the printed manual through the dealer, but that's also the most pricey way. Whoever the official producer of the Can Am manuals is, they apparently do not make a PDF copy available for sale. I really believe the PDF copies that are sold on the 'net are not legitimate, but the manufacturers must not care too much as the guys seem to stay in business, or else they're based in a foreign country somewhere where BRP can't reach them. The 2013 RT manual I got from Best Manuals is complete and is searchable. However, the images in the parts manual section suck. Resolution is quite poor. I usually end up going to the BRP parts website to get a good copy of a parts diagram. The price is right, about $30.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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09-15-2014, 09:22 PM
#252
Here is another "Do" Have a reliable trailer!
Check out these amazing "Ride On Trailers" There are no ramps and it lowers to the ground. This is perfect for my Can-am! Can't live without it!!
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10-31-2014, 11:39 PM
#253
Prospective Buyer
We are planning on buying a new RT-S SE6. We have been reading up on the forums and find the information both interesting and distressing. We would like to ride from Southern California to Alaska on this after proper break in and sufficient time getting acquainted with it. We rented a 2010 version for a week and found it to be fun and useful after adjusting to its "nanny". Does anyone have experience riding the AlCan and the Cassier Highway on a Can-Am? The AlCan is paved the entire way and the Cassier is not. From the Do's and Don't"s section, it would seem, the Spyder may be a little too delicate for this adventure. I know a lot of Harley's ride these highways and they are belt driven, so I am hoping it is just an over abundance of caution regarding the warning. I would like to know of people riding to Alaska and their experience. I am an Ironbutt rider with 40 years of riding experience.
Thanks,
Santa Ken
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11-01-2014, 12:18 AM
#254
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Santa Ken
We are planning on buying a new RT-S SE6. We have been reading up on the forums and find the information both interesting and distressing. We would like to ride from Southern California to Alaska on this after proper break in and sufficient time getting acquainted with it. We rented a 2010 version for a week and found it to be fun and useful after adjusting to its "nanny". Does anyone have experience riding the AlCan and the Cassier Highway on a Can-Am? The AlCan is paved the entire way and the Cassier is not. From the Do's and Don't"s section, it would seem, the Spyder may be a little too delicate for this adventure. I know a lot of Harley's ride these highways and they are belt driven, so I am hoping it is just an over abundance of caution regarding the warning. I would like to know of people riding to Alaska and their experience. I am an Ironbutt rider with 40 years of riding experience.
Thanks,
Santa Ken
Check out this thread and maybe become part of the group! http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ht=alaska+2015
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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11-01-2014, 08:04 AM
#255
As already noted, some of us are planning to go to Alaska next July. I hope you can join us!
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11-01-2014, 02:42 PM
#256
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Santa Ken
We are planning on buying a new RT-S SE6. We have been reading up on the forums and find the information both interesting and distressing. We would like to ride from Southern California to Alaska on this after proper break in and sufficient time getting acquainted with it. We rented a 2010 version for a week and found it to be fun and useful after adjusting to its "nanny". Does anyone have experience riding the AlCan and the Cassier Highway on a Can-Am? The AlCan is paved the entire way and the Cassier is not. From the Do's and Don't"s section, it would seem, the Spyder may be a little too delicate for this adventure. I know a lot of Harley's ride these highways and they are belt driven, so I am hoping it is just an over abundance of caution regarding the warning. I would like to know of people riding to Alaska and their experience. I am an Ironbutt rider with 40 years of riding experience.
Thanks,
Santa Ken
RE: Alcan and Cassier Highways. Both are paved but you may run into construction areas and encounter some graveled areas. Pretty much a given any time you ride the Great North. I avoid gravel if I can (but am considered very conservative). If you pick up a rock and your drive belt gets broken, you are in a bit of doo doo. The glacial till on gravel roads also can gum up your brake actuator and cause limp mode if you don't keep it clean. Tows if needed can take hours or more. The cost is also way out there. I have heard up to $50 per mile for very remote tows.
The Milepost magazine is recommended reading and will take a bunch of mystery out the ride. The current year is a must. 2015 was not out yet as of last week.
There is a group planning a trip next season from Chelen, WA to Alaska.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 11-01-2014 at 03:41 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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12-21-2014, 02:37 PM
#257
Active Member
Great Info
Great info for a new Spyder owner like myself. Thanks!!
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12-30-2014, 10:59 AM
#258
Miles per tank
I just got my 2014 r s and see that the gas tank is 6.2 gal.
Question is " About how far can my R S go on a tank full ? "I ride in the hills above Ventura Ca. from sea level to 5000 feet. I know that the Can Am gets not great mileage doing that --but I was thinking about taking it to Las Vegas this spring. I know that I will have to stop for gas at least once or twice but some parts of the ride the gas stations are a little far apart. I have a gal gas can that I could put in the frunt, along with a carry on bag
So far love the bike and my friend is thinking about a F-3 when they come out .
Thanks for any help.
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12-30-2014, 11:13 AM
#259
Originally Posted by olderman
I just got my 2014 r s and see that the gas tank is 6.2 gal.
Question is " About how far can my R S go on a tank full ? "I ride in the hills above Ventura Ca. from sea level to 5000 feet. I know that the Can Am gets not great mileage doing that --but I was thinking about taking it to Las Vegas this spring. I know that I will have to stop for gas at least once or twice but some parts of the ride the gas stations are a little far apart. I have a gal gas can that I could put in the frunt, along with a carry on bag
So far love the bike and my friend is thinking about a F-3 when they come out .
Thanks for any help.
I get about 30mpg with my 2011 RS-S. You can figger it out from there.
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02-02-2015, 10:02 AM
#260
I wish I had read this thread earlier! I am guilty of rolling off the throttle, the brake issue has never been a problem for me. So I can shift up without letting off the throttle? I don't remember reading that in my manual, but I am going to go back and read it again.
ETA: I just looked at my manual. It is mentioned in the section regarding practice exercises for the SE6. It is on page 86 of the 2014 owners manual, under 7b) Upshifting from First into Second Gear. It mentions that you do not have to release the throttle to shift, which is NOT that same thing as DO NOT. Yes, I know I am arguing semantics......
Last edited by angelssix; 02-02-2015 at 10:17 AM.
Reason: added info from owner's manual
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02-02-2015, 10:23 AM
#261
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by angelssix
I wish I had read this thread earlier! I am guilty of rolling off the throttle, the brake issue has never been a problem for me. So I can shift up without letting off the throttle? I don't remember reading that in my manual, but I am going to go back and read it again.
ETA: I just looked at my manual. It is mentioned in the section regarding practice exercises for the SE6. It is on page 86 of the 2014 owners manual, under 7b) Upshifting from First into Second Gear. It mentions that you do not have to release the throttle to shift, which is NOT that same thing as DO NOT. Yes, I know I am arguing semantics......
Don't roll off the throttle when upshifting. Think of it from the computer's point of view: you're dropping RPMs while telling it to upshift -- conflicting message. Just GO with the throttle and upshift as you move through higher RPMs.
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03-01-2015, 04:28 PM
#262
Active Member
New owner here
Thanks for all the info posted here. I will apply it all on my first ride . Thanks
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-03-2019 at 07:53 PM.
Reason: Removed complete OP quote!
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03-12-2015, 02:25 AM
#263
Thanks so much!!!!
Just purchased a 2010 RTS-SM5. Reading through this thread is wonderful! My first priority is a new battery - the scoot wouldn't start without an overnight recharge. Next will be a belt-guard.
My previous scoot was a 750 cc Honda Shadow. Rode it from Michigan to Maine, Key West, Wyoming..... and ()work. The closest I came to falling off the bike was when I tripped over my camera bag right after getting off the bike. Since I was still in my helmet, no injuries. BUT - I am a photographer, and the complicated procedure of unlocking the camera from the converted toolbox on back (3 latches), then getting the tripod pieces out of the side-bag and re-assembling it caused me to forget what I wanted to shoot.
Once again, thanks for all the great info!
~Sandee~
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03-12-2015, 08:23 AM
#264
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03-12-2015, 08:24 AM
#265
Active Member
Gravel
Originally Posted by ARCTIC
Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:
DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS
I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard
The 2014 seems to have a full belt guard that previous models didn't, on this model is the spyderpops guard that much better?
Greetings from Idaho
2014 RT-S,
Barjaron swaybar, chome luggage rack, Ram Mount GPS, 12 volt dash outlet, spyderflap mudflap, Rivco flag mounts, drink2go and custom handlebar drink holders,Driver Backrest,Tri-Axis Handlebars, TRICLed turn signal lights. Custon Dynamic Magic Strobe Brake Modulator, Triple Dash Pouches, "Squared Away" Laser Alignment, Spyderpops Bumpskid, TricLed "Knightrider" LED
2014 RT , White (Mine) Cognac (wifes)
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03-12-2015, 09:33 AM
#266
Originally Posted by PrairieSpyder
Now I enjoy my ryde, and get lots of images on neurochrome!!
Neurochrome? That is funny! Thanks!
~Sandee~
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03-12-2015, 11:50 PM
#267
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03-15-2015, 10:34 AM
#268
Very Active Member
Good info on this thread
Recent purchase of a '14 RT-S in bright YELLOW. Can't emphasize enough that the correct tire pressure is really important!! My Spyder was delivered from the dealer with 12 psi in the fronts and 23 in the back tire. Can you say wonky handeling?? I put on the heavier anti-sway bar ( which helped) but a big difference came with the correct tire pressure. MUCH BETTER HANDELING. So as the manual and this thread say----check the tire pressure!!
Kaos
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03-21-2015, 06:30 AM
#269
Lots of new stuff....my head hurts!
I'm so new that I don't even have my Spyder yet. Bought it used, 2013 RT-S w/less than 800 miles, from a dealer in another state and he's going to deliver it after servicing.
Thanks for all the great free advice, especially this post. Downloaded the owner's manual from the BRP website and going through it now.
But, at least I'll have some knowledge for how to do things right when it does arrive.
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03-21-2015, 08:32 AM
#270
Originally Posted by tmlackey
I'm so new that I don't even have my Spyder yet. Bought it used, 2013 RT-S w/less than 800 miles, from a dealer in another state and he's going to deliver it after servicing.
Thanks for all the great free advice, especially this post. Downloaded the owner's manual from the BRP website and going through it now.
But, at least I'll have some knowledge for how to do things right when it does arrive.
and on joining the Spyderverse!
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03-21-2015, 08:32 AM
#271
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03-24-2015, 09:18 AM
#272
Originally Posted by RTwing
This would be a deal killer for me as I love riding the back roads. I think the biggest issue here is the over tightening of the drive belt. These grimler belts are like the standard chains, one would never tighten a chain but rather leave some good slack. The belts can have several inches of slack and still never climb or slip same as a chain. In fact the proper description is chain/belt. Also over-tightening can cause wheel hub issues and buzzing due to wind induced harmonics.
I have several belt drive RT's now and keep the belts slightly loose on all of them and yes gravel is part of the deal without a problem.
I also realize most people don't wish to ride where dust is present and are concerned with the machine looking nice and clean. I guess I am not most people and also own a pressure washer.
Clearly riding on gravel is an issue with any vehicle having part of its drive-train exposed to intrusion by any debris; however if you wanted to ride yours on gravel you could come-up with some sort of guard to prevent intrusion; at least for most of the time.
There are a few who were on this site several years ago who road only off-road. They modified their Spyder for it and we never heard complaints from them. Not sure some would do the mods they did, but it worked for them and that is all that counts.
It sounds like you know what you are doing and have the ability to remedy the problem if needed. I am like you in that I prefer a machine to be ridden rather than "decorated".
Also, as mentioned, the '14's have a better guard than previous years. Good luck to you!
Ride often, safe, and aware!
Illinois Boy
PS: This thread is just about to get a complete overhaul to include more about the F-3; as well as to make the information more concise. I should have taken the slow winter to have done this, but somehow was kept too busy.
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04-21-2015, 07:14 PM
#273
Originally Posted by ttc
Great post
I am guilty of changing gears too early, now I know what I should be doing, I will
FYI - The opinion on RPM is just that. When taking it easy, or around town, I keep it under 4K rpm, usually cruising around 3500rpm. I have no idea why folks recommend more, (mileage is not a valid reason) unless the discussion relates to SE models and preserving the clutch. I also observed that the 2009 SE5 I drove was a vibration machine where as my 2011 SM is SMOOTH. There is ample power available from 3000rpm's and up for around town. For freeway / highway, or higher speed riding, more RPM's are useful, but definitely not NECESASARY. And revving the engine higher, is certain to use more fuel, not less.
Just my opinion, but I personally believe the RPM recommendation (to stay over 5K rpm) is misguided, and wrong. Perhaps there was some change made after 2008, that made it smoother, but either way, I don't run my vehicles anywhere near their torque peak at steady speeds, unless max towing, into the wind. The lowest rpm that provides sufficient power, that the engine rus smoothly at, is the correct rpm.
Lovin the new Spyder, 400+ miles in the first 5 days of ownership!
Last edited by isthatahemi; 04-21-2015 at 07:17 PM.
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04-22-2015, 03:53 AM
#274
Active Member
Originally Posted by isthatahemi
FYI - The opinion on RPM is just that. When taking it easy, or around town, I keep it under 4K rpm, usually cruising around 3500rpm. I have no idea why folks recommend more, (mileage is not a valid reason) unless the discussion relates to SE models and preserving the clutch. I also observed that the 2009 SE5 I drove was a vibration machine where as my 2011 SM is SMOOTH. There is ample power available from 3000rpm's and up for around town. For freeway / highway, or higher speed riding, more RPM's are useful, but definitely not NECESASARY. And revving the engine higher, is certain to use more fuel, not less.
Just my opinion, but I personally believe the RPM recommendation (to stay over 5K rpm) is misguided, and wrong. Perhaps there was some change made after 2008, that made it smoother, but either way, I don't run my vehicles anywhere near their torque peak at steady speeds, unless max towing, into the wind. The lowest rpm that provides sufficient power, that the engine rus smoothly at, is the correct rpm.
Lovin the new Spyder, 400+ miles in the first 5 days of ownership!
Wondered about the high RPM ranges myself. I've had my 2011 RS-S, SM5 for a month now and noticed high RPMs lower gas mileage. Lower RPMs 4000 and under (around town) better gas mileage.
Currently Own: 2011 RS-S SM5 - BRP Comfort Seat, Juice Box Pro, Two Brothers Exhaust
Previously Owned: 1991 GS500E
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04-22-2015, 05:38 PM
#275
Personally, I don't care for the noise of an engine spinning 2K higher than necessary. Burning fuel, generating heat, and generally making a racket. Just me though!
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