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Very Active Member
Downshifting to slow down?
I've carried over the (bad?) habit of downshifting (aka, engine braking) the Sypder to slow down from my days of driving a maunual transmission car. The other day I was taking my wife's Buell Blast for a test ride and absent-mindedly downshifted in a turn. I can't exactly describe what the rear end did, but I know I won't be trying that again.
Does anyone else downshift?
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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Registered User
Does anyone else downshift?
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Always, I don't use the brakes until the bike is under 20MPH usually.
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Active Member
I regularly downshift to reduce speed for cornering and stopping.
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Very Active Member
When your pushing through the twisties you gotta down shift and brake and accelerate and shift and repeat. Oh what fun it is to go go go.
"Stupid is as Stupid does"
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I just brake. I will manually downshift if I need speed up again and am at a gear to high for the speed I am currently.
I just use the brakes to get to a complete stop.
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Very Active Member
Not a bad habit at all... I do it all the time... even use the clutch sometimes.....
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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braking vs down shifting
Originally Posted by GIJoe
I've carried over the (bad?) habit of downshifting (aka, engine braking) the Sypder to slow down from my days of driving a maunual transmission car. The other day I was taking my wife's Buell Blast for a test ride and absent-mindedly downshifted in a turn. I can't exactly describe what the rear end did, but I know I won't be trying that again.
Does anyone else downshift?
It is said that brake pads are cheaper than pistons and rings, but shifting, up or down is also a means of control. I down shift to slow my motorcycle or Spyder, but I don't do it in place of braking when braking is necessary. When I go into a turn, I want to be in the gear that is going to take me through the turn. Down shifting in a turn can cause the rear wheel on a motorcycle to break loose or 'hop' like you probably did on the Buell.
2010 RS , custom home made billet Red/Black
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Very Active Member
Quite effective. I got in the habit many years back of blipping the throttle to equalize engine to road speed as releasing the clutch in the lower gear. ALSO - if I am engine braking only, following traffic has no ready knowledge of my speed change. I always at least touch the brake to activate the brake lights.
08 RS/SM5 (Hers) (sold)
15 RT-S (Mine)
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Very Active Member
1-Downshift into tight corners to get a better grip on the turn!
2-Downshift from 3rd to 2nd because its smoother when I do.
3.Down shift AND have my foot a half inch over the brake when I,m going through an intersection and theres a least bit of chance someone is going to do the ole"Pull out in front of you routine?"
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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SE5
Downshift? Usually.
To make coming to a stop smooth - Quadmaniac recommended: Keep the throttle open, just a little. As he said, "smooth as silk".
Of course, if you are powering through curves, you have the throttle open.
This works like magic on my SE5, never did it on a SM5.
Tom
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by VaughnCat
It is said that brake pads are cheaper than pistons and rings...
Add here: front sprocket with screw and main shaft...
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Engine braking is fine. The key to using it is to be smooth. If your RPM is high, backing off the throttle is all that is necessary, then downshifting progressively as the RPM drops. If the rpm is already low enough, go ahead and down shift. Drop to the lower gear too early, and you risk eventual drivetrain damage, and could lock up the rear wheel, as you have already discovered.
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Yep, I downshift
I downshift a lot when slowing down. I usually glance in my mirrors to see if anyone is following and tap the brake to alert the driver following that I'm slowing down. Hopefully, the brake light flashing will distract the driver behind me from sending the text message they are working on and actually drive for a change.
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What is this of which you speak?
Brakes? These come with brakes?
Ride on.
Roadkill
Last edited by Roadkill; 04-05-2010 at 06:53 PM.
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Very Active Member
Good advice all around.
Also a good time to mention... if you are NOT using engine braking when coming to a stop - you should still be downshifting with your clutch pulled in-- stay in the relative gear to your speed until you are back in first gear as you come to your final stop. This is better than waiting until you're at a complete stop and then downshifting all the way.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by Roadkill
Brakes? These come with brakes?
Ride on.
Roadkill
That is how I usually ryde. I only use the brake just before coming to a complete stop, or an emergency braking situation. I have thought about getting one of those mercury switches that flashes the brake lights when you decelerate to warn other drivers that I am slowing down some.
Originally Posted by docdoru
Add here: front sprocket with screw and main shaft...
Seeing the recent posts about the failed shafts and sprockets also has me rethinking my ryding style a little now. I don't want to baby my Spyder, but at the same time I don't want to knowing cause major damage to it either. Decisions, decisions.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Firefly
Good advice all around.
Also a good time to mention... if you are NOT using engine braking when coming to a stop - you should still be downshifting with your clutch pulled in-- stay in the relative gear to your speed until you are back in first gear as you come to your final stop. This is better than waiting until you're at a complete stop and then downshifting all the way.
Hopefully, everyone knows this. But for many the Spyder is their first "Motorcycle" so maybe not.
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Originally Posted by Sarge707
1-Downshift into tight corners to get a better grip on the turn!
2-Downshift from 3rd to 2nd because its smoother when I do.
3.Down shift AND have my foot a half inch over the brake when I,m going through an intersection and theres a least bit of chance someone is going to do the ole" Pull out in front of you routine?"
On the money, Sarge
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Engine braking is fine. The key to using it is to be smooth. If your RPM is high, backing off the throttle is all that is necessary, then downshifting progressively as the RPM drops. If the rpm is already low enough, go ahead and down shift. Drop to the lower gear too early, and you risk eventual drivetrain damage, and could lock up the rear wheel, as you have already discovered.
and I always downshift into a gear that is appropriate for my road speed at a sensible engine speed (rpm).
Happy owner of Silver PE #1232
All The Gear All The Time - ATGATT
Gulf Coast SpyderRyders
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I always downshift... as in the case of your 2 wheeler though, sounds like you weren't very smooth with the clutch and the rear wheel got squirrely on you... it happened to me a few times on my Ninja. Also forgot I didn't have ABS while on the Ninja once and locked up the rear wheel... that's the tricky part about going back and forth between the Spyder and a traditional 2 wheeler.
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RT-S PE# 536
I learned at a very early age to use engine-speed matching down shifting on a car (heal & toe method) and have carried that over on a motorcycle. On the sports cars I've owned, I've learned the sounds of the engine/gear and could tell you how fast I was going without the speedo. I'm learning that with the Spyder now too. Fortunately, the SE5 does all the speed matching for you when you downshift. My method is to put my foot on the brake to activate the light and downshift on the high side of the gear range to slow down. And always brake before you get into a turn, engine braking while in the first half of the turn, and accellerate through the last half. Generally speaking. Concept is the same for car or motorcycle, method is different.
Jay on Omega Bay Texas
Spyder RT-S PE# 536
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